I'm building my own version of the ShigaClone CD Transport, refer to original thread "Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story" for details. The Transport mechanical design is greatly inspired from Peter Daniel own design.
Here the external 12Vdc supply. It is assembled into an aluminum cylindrical enclosure. I was able to mount the big power transformer 266LH25, the two MSR860 rectifier diodes, an AC inlet socket, the output shielded cable, a junction terminal block and an inline fuse socket.
The transformer is mounted on rubber insulator and held in place with only two screws.
The front will be made of wood, as the transport main platform (butcher block).
It will rest on two aluminum round bar, as the Labs 47 Power Dumpty supply.
Here the inside. It is rather compact.
Here the external 12Vdc supply. It is assembled into an aluminum cylindrical enclosure. I was able to mount the big power transformer 266LH25, the two MSR860 rectifier diodes, an AC inlet socket, the output shielded cable, a junction terminal block and an inline fuse socket.
The transformer is mounted on rubber insulator and held in place with only two screws.
The front will be made of wood, as the transport main platform (butcher block).
It will rest on two aluminum round bar, as the Labs 47 Power Dumpty supply.
Here the inside. It is rather compact.
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Here the Transport wood base and all metal parts before assembly.
I'm using 1.5"X2" aluminum bars, 1.5"X0.75" brass bars, 3/16" copper base plate. The front aluminum channel section will receive the buttons and the display. The transport metals need finishing. The front display metal section is already very nice.
I'm using 1.5"X2" aluminum bars, 1.5"X0.75" brass bars, 3/16" copper base plate. The front aluminum channel section will receive the buttons and the display. The transport metals need finishing. The front display metal section is already very nice.
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Thanks Quan. I'm not sure about the springs just yet. For the moment they are the EZ31 battery connectors springs that I recycled. The top platform springs forever if I excite it. Oscillation frequency is about 2-3 Hz, but really need to amortized. They are probably not stiff enough. I tried to put foam into the spring without any good result.
Top platform (metal only) weight is: 4.980 Kg
Spring: Conical shape, Lenght 29mm (uncompressed), Base diam. 17mm, Top diam. 10mm, wire diam. 1.22mm, 4 springs compress to 23mm when loaded but the platform 5Kg.
Top platform (metal only) weight is: 4.980 Kg
Spring: Conical shape, Lenght 29mm (uncompressed), Base diam. 17mm, Top diam. 10mm, wire diam. 1.22mm, 4 springs compress to 23mm when loaded but the platform 5Kg.
Here my what I call my Control Self. It is the original display PCB, cut to fit and accept the two front toggle switches (PWR and TOC), with on top the relocated switches STOP-FB-PLAY-FF-RPT. These buttons are made of chromed brass. Again, they are recycled antenna tips from the EZ31 itself. I re-used the original plastic LCD window.
The PCB will be mounted from the back, into the butcher block. The top switches will be connected to the PCB using small wires. These switches are the original PCB ones. They will be mounted in the wood block, into drill holes and fix using glue. The 2X2 aluminum channel will be screwed on the block from the top with to stainless steel allen bolts.
The PCB will be mounted from the back, into the butcher block. The top switches will be connected to the PCB using small wires. These switches are the original PCB ones. They will be mounted in the wood block, into drill holes and fix using glue. The 2X2 aluminum channel will be screwed on the block from the top with to stainless steel allen bolts.
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I worked on the wood block to install the front panel and its controls.
The top buttons are installed. They just need to be connected by wires. They are aligned perfectly with the alu plate and the metal press buttons. I won't glue them in place, the slot is to let pass the wires.
The top buttons are installed. They just need to be connected by wires. They are aligned perfectly with the alu plate and the metal press buttons. I won't glue them in place, the slot is to let pass the wires.
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Here is a head up for the less mechanically/Practically minded.....
Actually you dont need to build a fantastic looking chassis/suspension to have this drive sounding great!! Here is what I arrived at, for now! Drilling a few hole is all it takes
The build in linesignal is not bad at all!! The Digital signal is also great!! Here is a pic of what is needed to extract the particular sinals!!! Except for a little studying the schematics, all it takes is a little persistance I used a BNC connection to achieve 75R impedance. I incourage you to do as you please Do yourself the favour and drill 3 holes, and you will have all the signals output you need
Actually you dont need to build a fantastic looking chassis/suspension to have this drive sounding great!! Here is what I arrived at, for now! Drilling a few hole is all it takes
The build in linesignal is not bad at all!! The Digital signal is also great!! Here is a pic of what is needed to extract the particular sinals!!! Except for a little studying the schematics, all it takes is a little persistance I used a BNC connection to achieve 75R impedance. I incourage you to do as you please Do yourself the favour and drill 3 holes, and you will have all the signals output you need Attachments
steenoe said:Here is a head up for the less mechanically/Practically minded.....
Actually you dont need to build a fantastic looking chassis/suspension to have this drive sounding great!! Here is what I arrived at, for now! Drilling a few hole is all it takes
Ups sorry, I thought I posted in PD's thread
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