I am moving my shigaclone into a new chassis, but before doing so I ran a final test vs my modded Theta DATA III, a massive 4 transformer 25kg transport that was also built to play laser discs.
Despite the Theta having standard reclocking (74HCU04, 74HC74), it came second in the assessment!
The Shigaclone had:
More delicate highs
More 3D presentation-this was the biggest difference and a suprise for me. I never expected that a transport, which after all provides a digital data stream, can create a soundstage different to another
More emotive delivery compared with the DATA III's information presentation
The Shig was standard except for
an ALW 5V PS to the 5V line and a simple LM317 based reg feeding 8V
The std four caps (2 SMD) and choke removed
Plans include:
ALW reg to feed 8V line
2.5V line (VREF) to be fed by JohnW reg
reclock scheme try
mini-circuits attenuator try again
try a bybee type filter I've developed
Despite the Theta having standard reclocking (74HCU04, 74HC74), it came second in the assessment!
The Shigaclone had:
More delicate highs
More 3D presentation-this was the biggest difference and a suprise for me. I never expected that a transport, which after all provides a digital data stream, can create a soundstage different to another
More emotive delivery compared with the DATA III's information presentation
The Shig was standard except for
an ALW 5V PS to the 5V line and a simple LM317 based reg feeding 8V
The std four caps (2 SMD) and choke removed
Plans include:
ALW reg to feed 8V line
2.5V line (VREF) to be fed by JohnW reg
reclock scheme try
mini-circuits attenuator try again
try a bybee type filter I've developed
Hi Erik, that's good news.
My clock is still standard, but I do have a Gudio Tent 16.xxx XO which is supplied off it's own ALW reg. I'll see if replacing the standard clock crystal on the Shig brings any benefits.
The 2.5V reg story is simple:
This voltage is produced by the chip LA6541, which is fed by the 8V reg. Two things:
1. Users note that the 8V supply makes a difference to sound even when the rest of the player's 5V requirement is fed by a low noise reg. This is suprising given that the 8V is feeding mechs/servo's etc.
2. C916 appears to affect ths ound of the Shig and is also on the VREF line.
The data sheet shows that the VREF pin is a high impedance node as it is the input of an op-amp. This SUGGESTS that the work at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/25213-capcitor-type-vref.html?perpage=10&pagenumber=3
may be useful.
My clock is still standard, but I do have a Gudio Tent 16.xxx XO which is supplied off it's own ALW reg. I'll see if replacing the standard clock crystal on the Shig brings any benefits.
The 2.5V reg story is simple:
This voltage is produced by the chip LA6541, which is fed by the 8V reg. Two things:
1. Users note that the 8V supply makes a difference to sound even when the rest of the player's 5V requirement is fed by a low noise reg. This is suprising given that the 8V is feeding mechs/servo's etc.
2. C916 appears to affect ths ound of the Shig and is also on the VREF line.
The data sheet shows that the VREF pin is a high impedance node as it is the input of an op-amp. This SUGGESTS that the work at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/25213-capcitor-type-vref.html?perpage=10&pagenumber=3
may be useful.
Thanks, I will most certainly follow your experiment.
I also have the Tent clock with supply but did not want to take the trouble of un-installing it out of my Wadia 22 and replacing the Trichord 4 in my PiTbull (Shiga) to note the differences......it is loads of work as it is already.
I still use the Tent in my Matriarch Audio Note Dac-6 and will leave it there...even though I have a Trichord 4 with NC PSU as spare at the moment...
Both Tent Clocks worked miracles for me in Wadia 22 and Audio Note Dac-3....the Trichord 4 worked miracles in Wadia 23 (friend's) and the last 3 Shiga-clones....
For me personally (I think I tried them all):
Get use to the standard ceramic resonator first, replace it by the Citizen crystal and to top it all ....introduce the Trichord 4 clock (or Tent or whatever make you fancy).
I also have the Tent clock with supply but did not want to take the trouble of un-installing it out of my Wadia 22 and replacing the Trichord 4 in my PiTbull (Shiga) to note the differences......it is loads of work as it is already.
I still use the Tent in my Matriarch Audio Note Dac-6 and will leave it there...even though I have a Trichord 4 with NC PSU as spare at the moment...
Both Tent Clocks worked miracles for me in Wadia 22 and Audio Note Dac-3....the Trichord 4 worked miracles in Wadia 23 (friend's) and the last 3 Shiga-clones....
For me personally (I think I tried them all):
Get use to the standard ceramic resonator first, replace it by the Citizen crystal and to top it all ....introduce the Trichord 4 clock (or Tent or whatever make you fancy).
The purpose is theoretically perfect...meaning the particular frequency in which the laser can measure/function optimal...(used this way in the Lab to measure protein) some audio designers use red-green or blue in there design players...
For me...I honestly cannot hear any difference switched off or on!!!!...but as a bonus it still turns out to be very practical if you want to use a screw puck so I make good use of it.
I agree with Peter.
It also might work (better) with "some" other transports but I can honestly say that despite changing intensity and trying variable angles ...I can detect NOTHING so no better no worse...nada...nothing...on the (my) Shigaclones.
But what you do get is a nicely illuminated thread when you want to screw.....
."Puck-wise" that is...
If you use a clear acrylic puck the effect of practical use is really 100 percent with some form of direct illumination....oh so comfy..
I find that a very SAD topic...the main reason I recently left a forum !!!!!
Yves should have refrained from a technical answer....it made matters worse and opened up discussions attacking his weaker statements.
There were plenty of egos who instead of spending a couple of bucks on a battery and a led wanted to shout out what nonsense everything was......a pity
my cd player died 3 months ago.
I decided to build the shigaclone and use a gigaworks converter (small one-Lampucera).
Finished (?) the shigaclone today, hooked it up to the gigaworks (unmodified) DAC and no sound, no hiss etc.
CD's spin I can play, FF RW and stop.
I used the original transformer but made my own PS (8.05V output)
I am putting the shigaclone and the dac inches apart, so didn't use the output resistors.
just a pair of 8 inch wires.
D OUT goes directly to the input of DAC
GRND goes directly to the ground of DAC's input
I didn't use RCA jacks (or F connector).
Thanks
Paul
I decided to build the shigaclone and use a gigaworks converter (small one-Lampucera).
Finished (?) the shigaclone today, hooked it up to the gigaworks (unmodified) DAC and no sound, no hiss etc.
CD's spin I can play, FF RW and stop.
I used the original transformer but made my own PS (8.05V output)
I am putting the shigaclone and the dac inches apart, so didn't use the output resistors.
just a pair of 8 inch wires.
D OUT goes directly to the input of DAC
GRND goes directly to the ground of DAC's input
I didn't use RCA jacks (or F connector).
Thanks
Paul
After 2 shoot-outs last week the Mini-PiTbull has proven that it is far superior compared to let us say both visited High-End transports...
Reason for me to be very happy and now inspired to give this transport a nice housing in my PiTBull-style, electronically I am finished with it..
The Mini-PiTbull is meant to be for one of those transport owners who now refuses to listen any longer to his High-End player while he can call the Mini-PiTbull his own...
In the mean time I will be finishing the other mini-Pitbull but this time with the encasing...
I started with the "connection bar". I do not particularly like the alu (matter of taste) so I start off by giving it 2 alu primer coatings and will spray it black.
This heavy alu bar wil feature a GND, a Furutech Rhodium inlet, an on/off switch and a WBT Nextgen RCA.
Reason for me to be very happy and now inspired to give this transport a nice housing in my PiTBull-style, electronically I am finished with it..
The Mini-PiTbull is meant to be for one of those transport owners who now refuses to listen any longer to his High-End player while he can call the Mini-PiTbull his own...
In the mean time I will be finishing the other mini-Pitbull but this time with the encasing...
I started with the "connection bar". I do not particularly like the alu (matter of taste) so I start off by giving it 2 alu primer coatings and will spray it black.
This heavy alu bar wil feature a GND, a Furutech Rhodium inlet, an on/off switch and a WBT Nextgen RCA.
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I also don't like aluminum... It has a somehow "weak" sound... Why not fashion something out of brass or copper bars instead?
Call me silly, but I test the materials I use for audio gear by tapping them, and listening to how they sound. If I like the sound, I go ahead and use it; if not, I discard the material.
Most man-made materials (ie. plastics, mdf) sound rubbish, stone/concrete is no good either, so I tend to use hardwoods and non-ferrous metals. Glass is actually not too bad, just not very practical... I want to try quartz at some point (although quartz is piezoelectric, so not sure how that would mix with electronics!).
Call me silly, but I test the materials I use for audio gear by tapping them, and listening to how they sound. If I like the sound, I go ahead and use it; if not, I discard the material.
Most man-made materials (ie. plastics, mdf) sound rubbish, stone/concrete is no good either, so I tend to use hardwoods and non-ferrous metals. Glass is actually not too bad, just not very practical... I want to try quartz at some point (although quartz is piezoelectric, so not sure how that would mix with electronics!).
