Still not measuring any voltage at D OUT.
Wrecked the tab on DOUT but am measuring continuity from the end of the wire soldered there back to the DOUT pin on the chip.
I only removed C952 and replaced C916 (and removed smd bypass caps for those two). Also removed the choke and connected power supply where the choke was.
Are these caps I removed (and their corresponding bypasses) for the power supply, or for the audio signal.
In other words is my 0 voltage possibly due to removing these caps? Hard to see under the heat shield what I did when removing the smd's.
Thanks,
Paul
Wrecked the tab on DOUT but am measuring continuity from the end of the wire soldered there back to the DOUT pin on the chip.
I only removed C952 and replaced C916 (and removed smd bypass caps for those two). Also removed the choke and connected power supply where the choke was.
Are these caps I removed (and their corresponding bypasses) for the power supply, or for the audio signal.
In other words is my 0 voltage possibly due to removing these caps? Hard to see under the heat shield what I did when removing the smd's.
Thanks,
Paul
Can't wait to see the day where you'll have been able to make the CD hover over the pickup laser. ;0) Keep it up!
Hi Eric,
I will explain the realization only because attach files don't work(maybe there is some 24 hours attaching limit, I have no idea what is the problem).
The cd lens is fixed with possibility of inclination and rotation.The disc is placed on the air bearing which movement is controlled by actuator from outside and the actuator is mechanically coupled with disc assembly by two tiny carbon sticks.Then the saddle of the bearing is dampened in silicon oil bath to reduce cd spinning vibrations.
The result is 1/3 of time to read TOC regarding standard mechanism.All together is better than standard mechanics especially the dinamics and bass.Treble and mids are more natural and without sibilance.After all the disc is spinning on the air and the lens don't receive punches from the disc and actuator so the sonic result is obvious.The whole assembly is extremely silent and I remember how noisy it was in original version.
I'll try to post pics tomorrow.
Yes Leoparleur, the CD hover might be a next step, who knows.
I will explain the realization only because attach files don't work(maybe there is some 24 hours attaching limit, I have no idea what is the problem).
The cd lens is fixed with possibility of inclination and rotation.The disc is placed on the air bearing which movement is controlled by actuator from outside and the actuator is mechanically coupled with disc assembly by two tiny carbon sticks.Then the saddle of the bearing is dampened in silicon oil bath to reduce cd spinning vibrations.
The result is 1/3 of time to read TOC regarding standard mechanism.All together is better than standard mechanics especially the dinamics and bass.Treble and mids are more natural and without sibilance.After all the disc is spinning on the air and the lens don't receive punches from the disc and actuator so the sonic result is obvious.The whole assembly is extremely silent and I remember how noisy it was in original version.
I'll try to post pics tomorrow.
Yes Leoparleur, the CD hover might be a next step, who knows.
Last edited:
Hi Nemo,
As Uncle says ..some serious engineering going on here......
I have built my own PiTbull and you your own 47Lab PiTracer....
I have a lot of respect for Jinji Kimura's ideas ...I think he is one of the very few designers to get DIGITAL "listenable"..........it is great fun to watch you walking in his steps...
Is there some sort of forum..or link where I can learn more of your ideas....
As Uncle says ..some serious engineering going on here......
I have built my own PiTbull and you your own 47Lab PiTracer....
I have a lot of respect for Jinji Kimura's ideas ...I think he is one of the very few designers to get DIGITAL "listenable"..........it is great fun to watch you walking in his steps...
Is there some sort of forum..or link where I can learn more of your ideas....
missaligned lazer ?
Hi all,
I've been listening and tweaking my "Shigaclone" for some weeks now.
Expectations were high before first try but i was a little disappointed at first listen because i have a very good reference, Shanling 100MKII with all new Rudolf modified IV ( moded by ZM, implemented by yours trully ).
I've replaced transformer, split supplies and made a shunt one for the 5V and all these mods have steadily improved the sound, especially the new 5V supply.
So yesterday i decided to try detaching the electronics from the transport itself, this was easily done and after putting the thing together again i listened for change.
Sound was gorgeous....but drive was skipping ( loosing lock ), this confused me because it played flawlessly before and i made no changes except a longer flat cable.
There is a major improvement in sound...when i can hear it...but the skipping i have no idea what is provoking it.
Any suggestions from the more experienced on this issue will be very appreciated as now i can finally hear, albeit bits at a time, the magic.
Hi all,
I've been listening and tweaking my "Shigaclone" for some weeks now.
Expectations were high before first try but i was a little disappointed at first listen because i have a very good reference, Shanling 100MKII with all new Rudolf modified IV ( moded by ZM, implemented by yours trully ).
I've replaced transformer, split supplies and made a shunt one for the 5V and all these mods have steadily improved the sound, especially the new 5V supply.
So yesterday i decided to try detaching the electronics from the transport itself, this was easily done and after putting the thing together again i listened for change.
Sound was gorgeous....but drive was skipping ( loosing lock ), this confused me because it played flawlessly before and i made no changes except a longer flat cable.
There is a major improvement in sound...when i can hear it...but the skipping i have no idea what is provoking it.
Any suggestions from the more experienced on this issue will be very appreciated as now i can finally hear, albeit bits at a time, the magic.
Attachments
Last edited:
Thanks Erik,
That though came to mind...so i'm building a solid cnc base with the 4 pillars,
hope that works.
I got two other spares, tried those as well...even worse.......
Thing is i did not over-tighten the screws, did the loosening up bit and that didn't help much, although some change happened....it just skipped in different places.
It was rock solid before so i don't understand why it's so delicate now.....
just kind of setting this aside for a day or two while i think about my problem As you may remember everything works, but no voltage measured at DOUT I wired my PSU to the (removed) choke as has been advised lately in this thread Do I need to run a jumper to get power to other parts of the board as well? Whats the best thing to check next???? Thanks, Paul
Hi CeeVee
I would check the ribbon cable,take it loose and see if the wires that it touches in the plug have made indentions if so you can flaten them back out with something smooth and round,also you can push around on the ribbon when it's playing to see if it's not making the connection,
Check any connections you have made ,(Is the spdif at correct voltage?Loosing lock,)
one more here's a link about alignment,
How to Fix Your CD Player || kuro5hin.org
DO mark it before you move that pot on the laser(so you can put it back) and most people say the height is 19mm for the disk,Hope that helps you!
Good luck,
hey,Hi all,
I've been listening and tweaking my "Shigaclone" for some weeks now.
Expectations were high before first try but i was a little disappointed at first listen because i have a very good reference, Shanling 100MKII with all new Rudolf modified IV ( moded by ZM, implemented by yours trully ).
I've replaced transformer, split supplies and made a shunt one for the 5V and all these mods have steadily improved the sound, especially the new 5V supply.
So yesterday i decided to try detaching the electronics from the transport itself, this was easily done and after putting the thing together again i listened for change.
Sound was gorgeous....but drive was skipping ( loosing lock ), this confused me because it played flawlessly before and i made no changes except a longer flat cable.
There is a major improvement in sound...when i can hear it...but the skipping i have no idea what is provoking it.
Any suggestions from the more experienced on this issue will be very appreciated as now i can finally hear, albeit bits at a time, the magic.
I would check the ribbon cable,take it loose and see if the wires that it touches in the plug have made indentions if so you can flaten them back out with something smooth and round,also you can push around on the ribbon when it's playing to see if it's not making the connection,
Check any connections you have made ,(Is the spdif at correct voltage?Loosing lock,)
one more here's a link about alignment,
How to Fix Your CD Player || kuro5hin.org
DO mark it before you move that pot on the laser(so you can put it back) and most people say the height is 19mm for the disk,Hope that helps you!
Good luck,