Finally, an affordable CD Transport: the Shigaclone story

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kevinkr

kevinkr

Administrator
Joined 2004
kta-hifi.net
Paid Member
BMW850 said:
Problem solved :)

It was a stupid fault from me, I used a print kroonsteen I don’t know the name in English so see the picture.

One pin is connected to the + and the other to the – to the board that is good, bud under need the board I connect the – from the print kroonsteen also to the – that was the problem, no power to the motor :smash:

Rudy
Click to expand...

terminal block :)
 
audio1st

audio1st

Member
Joined 2005
Puffin said:



I have only just got around to fitting this clock. Audio1st, it is exactly the same as yours. I have connected it as advised (post 1495 page 60) and it is not reading the TOC and no movement at all from the laser or motor.

From the photo you put on of your clock in situ, it would appear that one of the wires (ground?) is not connected at the terminal block?

There is an OUT and a GRD. I have connected the OUT to the pad you marked XO on your diagram and the GRD to the pad next to it (middle pad of crystal)

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Hi Puffin,

Connect clock "out" to XO. (as you have).. then..
If you use a separate power supply for your clock, then connect clock "Gnd" to the centre pin of crystal location. If your clock shares the same PS as the transport, then you don't need to connect the Gnd clock terminal, (it may cause ground loop problems).

Have you removed the crystal?
Have you reconnected the laser ribbon?
 

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D

Dan_ed

Member
Joined 2006
I have an issue with both transports that I have. From time to time the transport will skip just a tiny bit. A couple of notes. I can back up and play the same passage again with no problem. I swapped out the first transport but the second is doing this also.

My theory is that it is slop in the gears that drive the sled. I'm hoping something like the weight on a pulley that Eric once used might help counter this by keeping tension pulling away from the spindle.

Does anyone have another idea as to what may be going on?

This little cdp is starting to open up nicely.
 
W

woodturner-fran

Member
Joined 2006
When I built my second one, I had that problem. Sometimes it would read the TOC and other times it wouldn't. I "thought" the gears had more slop than the other spares I had here. When I subbed in one of those spares no problems. On my primary shiga, I was getting skips every now and then, and I sprayed a little dry silicone spray lubricant on the rails and the problem went away. Might be worth your while trying that out?


Fran
 
sparkle

sparkle

Member
Joined 2003
tnd-pipes.com/
Dan_ed said:
I have an issue with both transports that I have. From time to time the transport will skip just a tiny bit. A couple of notes. I can back up and play the same passage again with no problem. I swapped out the first transport but the second is doing this also.

My theory is that it is slop in the gears that drive the sled. I'm hoping something like the weight on a pulley that Eric once used might help counter this by keeping tension pulling away from the spindle.

Does anyone have another idea as to what may be going on?

This little cdp is starting to open up nicely.
Click to expand...

Dan_ed - i have a similar problem and i will try to solve it by using weights like Eric did... i also think that Fran pinpointed our problem correctly and that this is caused by some dust or something on the sled where laser is sliding.....
.....
try using 1gr or 2gr of weight.....
 
kevinkr

kevinkr

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Joined 2004
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This site might actually help: http://www.doctronics.co.uk/scope.htm - should be enough to give you the basics on how to use your scope, and it is humorous too. :)

Also look for various of the old Tektronix training manuals, they explain how to do various measurements with a scope and are often written for the first time user. At one time they had some of them as pdfs on their site as a historical curiosity.

Hopefully your scope came with a manual and may have some tips on usage.

First let us know what kind of scope you have, it needs to be fast enough to see the clock waveform.. A 20MHz scope will be just serviceable for this task, anything slower really isn't going to be fast enough to look at the ~11MHz clock signals.

I am assuming you will have a 10X probe. (1X probes often have too much capacitance and that in conjunction with the scope's input capacitance makes for poor high frequency performance with many DUTs. ) Calibrate it as discussed in the scope manual or training manual.

Obviously the probe ground goes to a board ground (keep the wiring very short as these are high frequencies) the tip will be used to probe any signal you want to look at.
The clock amplitude is typically around 5V at the input to the dsp chip, so look at it there and set the vertical sensitivity to either 5V/Div or 2V/Div, ((with non auto-ranging probe set to 500mV/Div, or 200mV/Div) trigger on "auto" and horizontal time base perhaps 50ns/Div. If your clock is working and your scope is fast enough you should see a nice squarewave.
 
D

dzuvela

Member
Joined 2007
tiglitosa

tiglitosa

Member
Joined 2009
Hi there,

Just an amazing thread that is!!

you got me searching for 51 model, so i got two to get me started.
So is it a good way to start with what Peter and OKapi suggested in the first postings?

Any reasonable clock, or the crystal that Peter suggested does the job after all?
Maybe i am asking the same things with others but the postings here are just extraterrestrial in volume to read.

Anyway i read most but i got lost hehe so i thought i just ask ;)

Thanks Peter and others here for the wonderful contribution in the DIY.
 
jitter

jitter

Member
Joined 2004
tiglitosa said:
Hi there,

Just an amazing thread that is!!

you got me searching for 51 model, so i got two to get me started.
So is it a good way to start with what Peter and OKapi suggested in the first postings?

Any reasonable clock, or the crystal that Peter suggested does the job after all?
Maybe i am asking the same things with others but the postings here are just extraterrestrial in volume to read.

Anyway i read most but i got lost hehe so i thought i just ask ;)

Thanks Peter and others here for the wonderful contribution in the DIY.
Click to expand...

Well, I did read the thread before starting on a Shigaclone myself and what I learned from that is that there is no "golden rule" or clear cut way to do the upgrade. It also depends on other variables than just the mechanism itself. In other words: everyone ends up with a different Shigaclone.
You can see okapi's pdf as a guideline at most. I implemented it partly, but I have already decided not to stick to it closely anymore.

If you skim through the thread you will see two extremes (and everything in between). Notable are an only slightly modified version (Peter's second 'clone) and a state-of-the-art version wich costs about the same as a small car (Erik's version).

My take on it is as low cost as possible. That excludes exotic materials, but I believe if you get the basics right, then most "improvements" from that point on are mostly psychological. This belief works great for me because it simplifies things a lot.
 
B

brgds

Member
Joined 2006
I’ve definitely finished my clone. It sounds better than everything I heard before, including several clone versions.
No exotic parts, just very pragmatic/engineering approach with the schema (A0 plotted :) and LC78601 n LA9242 n LA6541 data sheets in hand.
The clue is to provide well separated and noise-free power to each of 3 “main” Vcc of LC/LA combo, and Vref too. LA6541 is supplied separately, as well as external clock.
The parts used are 3 LT1117 stabs being put directly to pcb, some tantals and inductors. Some of original caps and resistors are removed.
The total cost of clock, trafos, PSUs, stabs, etc. is ca. 150$.
 
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