PIP in trouble
John,
offish topic but have been proud owner of three box PIP for 5 years - bought second hand on the day of advertisement and yes i RAN to get it.
It has enhanced my world every day since then but sadly now needs some TLC.
PLEASE can you help or point me in the right direction?
UK based
Problem is that right hand channel now rumbles and whooshes. Suspect I have fallen foul of capacitoritis. Is fine when warmed up but recently have had to turn off and then have to wait while it warms up - three four hours in some cases. Also know batteries must need changing by now.
Any help much appreciated.
Anthony
John,
offish topic but have been proud owner of three box PIP for 5 years - bought second hand on the day of advertisement and yes i RAN to get it.
It has enhanced my world every day since then but sadly now needs some TLC.
PLEASE can you help or point me in the right direction?
UK based
Problem is that right hand channel now rumbles and whooshes. Suspect I have fallen foul of capacitoritis. Is fine when warmed up but recently have had to turn off and then have to wait while it warms up - three four hours in some cases. Also know batteries must need changing by now.
Any help much appreciated.
Anthony
Hi Anthony,
I'm sorry to hear that you’re having troubles with your PIP, but glad that it’s given you so many years of Joy.
I'm not the original designer of the PIP; however I did help to rectify small issues with the design.
Normally, when there is any kind of noise problem with Pip’s, the most common problem is with the LED current sources. As LED's get old, they can become noisy - I would fist change all the LED's.
The LED's must be changed with the same colour (standard type - not high intensity).
I hope this will resolve your issue,
John
I'm sorry to hear that you’re having troubles with your PIP, but glad that it’s given you so many years of Joy.
I'm not the original designer of the PIP; however I did help to rectify small issues with the design.
Normally, when there is any kind of noise problem with Pip’s, the most common problem is with the LED current sources. As LED's get old, they can become noisy - I would fist change all the LED's.
The LED's must be changed with the same colour (standard type - not high intensity).
I hope this will resolve your issue,
John
Hi John,
I don`t suppose you ever got round to changing the caps in your own Da-Capo, Cardinal & DC?
Just wondered as I had hoped you would be able to recommend the best caps to use in diffrent parts of the circuit...
I am really keen to get mine changed before it dies on it`s own accord but don`t want to just change the caps for all the same make or type. If I am going to have to spend the money changing all the caps I would preffer to optimise the choice of cap to it`s purpose in the circuit.
Thanks Again for your help and advice...
Cheers
John
I don`t suppose you ever got round to changing the caps in your own Da-Capo, Cardinal & DC?
Just wondered as I had hoped you would be able to recommend the best caps to use in diffrent parts of the circuit...
I am really keen to get mine changed before it dies on it`s own accord but don`t want to just change the caps for all the same make or type. If I am going to have to spend the money changing all the caps I would preffer to optimise the choice of cap to it`s purpose in the circuit.
Thanks Again for your help and advice...
Cheers
John
Hi John,
I've been reading some interesting comments on other forums from DIYers getting good results using the Slim Devices Squeezebox as a transport to high-end DACs after disabling the internal clock and connecting an external clock source.
I'm still investigating the full requirements, but before I get too excited, something that's immediately clear is that you need a clock signal at 3.3v and 11.2896 MHz.
Can you tell me the voltage of the DaCapo clock-out and maybe give me an idea of how difficult it would be to multiply up the DaCapo clock by a factor of 2?
I should stress that apart from being OK at soldering, I'm very much a novice. Does this even sound like a reasonable thing for me to be attempting?
Any advice much appreciated!
I've been reading some interesting comments on other forums from DIYers getting good results using the Slim Devices Squeezebox as a transport to high-end DACs after disabling the internal clock and connecting an external clock source.
I'm still investigating the full requirements, but before I get too excited, something that's immediately clear is that you need a clock signal at 3.3v and 11.2896 MHz.
Can you tell me the voltage of the DaCapo clock-out and maybe give me an idea of how difficult it would be to multiply up the DaCapo clock by a factor of 2?
I should stress that apart from being OK at soldering, I'm very much a novice. Does this even sound like a reasonable thing for me to be attempting?
Any advice much appreciated!
Hi John,
Thank you very much for your quick answer.
This Cardinal of mine now works, now it doesn't. When it dos not, it just shows the "-disc-" message on the display, nothing else. The usual case is that when I switch it on, it plays OK or does not anything at all (just -disc- message), but (least of times), it sometimes works and suddenly stops playing. Most erratic issue... (just the ones that drive you mad).
Of course, when it works I'm in heaven. Cardinal & DaCapo are the best CD player I've ever listened to (here's my fond gratitude to John Westlake).
Does this problem fit with the caps leak?
Luckily, my DaCapo is provided with two DICs, the "Cardinal one" (coaxial & clock) and a BNC terminated one. Lately I'm using an oldie Cambridge Audio CD3 as the transport, connected to the second DIC, and, at least, it plays. I've also switched my PC (m-audio sound card) to the DaCapo and it sounds beautiful, never imagined mp3s and PCs could sound so well!.
My options are:
1) Having my Cardinal repaired (best option, if I can pay for it and find the adequate caps and prepaired technician), but what happens if the DaCapo has the same problem afterwards.
2) Find another decent transport and switch it to the BNC DIC
3) Play records.
Many regards to everyone. This forum is adorable.
Thank you very much for your quick answer.
This Cardinal of mine now works, now it doesn't. When it dos not, it just shows the "-disc-" message on the display, nothing else. The usual case is that when I switch it on, it plays OK or does not anything at all (just -disc- message), but (least of times), it sometimes works and suddenly stops playing. Most erratic issue... (just the ones that drive you mad).
Of course, when it works I'm in heaven. Cardinal & DaCapo are the best CD player I've ever listened to (here's my fond gratitude to John Westlake).
Does this problem fit with the caps leak?
Luckily, my DaCapo is provided with two DICs, the "Cardinal one" (coaxial & clock) and a BNC terminated one. Lately I'm using an oldie Cambridge Audio CD3 as the transport, connected to the second DIC, and, at least, it plays. I've also switched my PC (m-audio sound card) to the DaCapo and it sounds beautiful, never imagined mp3s and PCs could sound so well!.
My options are:
1) Having my Cardinal repaired (best option, if I can pay for it and find the adequate caps and prepaired technician), but what happens if the DaCapo has the same problem afterwards.
2) Find another decent transport and switch it to the BNC DIC
3) Play records.
Many regards to everyone. This forum is adorable.
Pip II
Hi John,
another PT fan joins the thread.
i have Pip2 - 3 box
DaCapo with HDCD
Cardinal
the only board that shows damage is the small one in the Pip PSU. It is so burnt that one of the resistors is falling out. Do you think this is a seperate problem from the Chemi-Con caps?
the batteries are ko'd so i may send it to Dave Holden(Ex PT) again as he serviced the Pip back in 2001.
Like all the rest i would be interested in your new filter for the DaCapo. i've just gone back to HDCD filter from the 24/20 after reading your comments. Arthur convinced me years ago that the 24/20 was the ultimate and the apparent lack of HDCD disks probably swayed it.
Sometimes the Cardinal is a bit pickey about reading the TOC for certain disks. Any idea if there is a simple adjusment as 98% of all disks play fine.
Thanks for any advice
Hi John,
another PT fan joins the thread.
i have Pip2 - 3 box
DaCapo with HDCD
Cardinal
the only board that shows damage is the small one in the Pip PSU. It is so burnt that one of the resistors is falling out. Do you think this is a seperate problem from the Chemi-Con caps?
the batteries are ko'd so i may send it to Dave Holden(Ex PT) again as he serviced the Pip back in 2001.
Like all the rest i would be interested in your new filter for the DaCapo. i've just gone back to HDCD filter from the 24/20 after reading your comments. Arthur convinced me years ago that the 24/20 was the ultimate and the apparent lack of HDCD disks probably swayed it.
Sometimes the Cardinal is a bit pickey about reading the TOC for certain disks. Any idea if there is a simple adjusment as 98% of all disks play fine.
Thanks for any advice
PC to DaCapo
Hello Ian,
From one end to the other:
1) Intel PIII 1000 Mhz, Asus motherboard, 512 Mb RAM, 250 Gb HDD, M-Audio 2496 audiophile soundcard with S/PDIF digital output (RCA).
2) QED QUNEX P75/3 (RCA to RCA coaxial, 3 m.)
3) RCA to BNC adaptor
ttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2xGOLD-PHONO-BNC-ADAPTORS-FOR-NAIM-32-42-52-62-PRE-AMPS_W0QQitemZ300128245835QQihZ020QQcategoryZ122649QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
4) DaCapo BNC input.
My Cardinal is being repaired by CPTAcoustics (Colin Toogood). In the meanwhile, I'm using a Cambridge Audio CD3 as the transport device, but its sound is almost pathetic, man, that's why I tried this (old)PC-DaCapo combination. While I usually listen to Bach, Haydn, Haendel, etc, with the Cardinal, these holidays I'm listening to a lot of Frank Zappa, Jeff Beck, King Crimson, Pink Floyd ... in MP3 format , and it does sound (IMHO).
Regards,
LORIP: Are you going to bid for the Tarantella?
Hello Ian,
From one end to the other:
1) Intel PIII 1000 Mhz, Asus motherboard, 512 Mb RAM, 250 Gb HDD, M-Audio 2496 audiophile soundcard with S/PDIF digital output (RCA).
2) QED QUNEX P75/3 (RCA to RCA coaxial, 3 m.)
3) RCA to BNC adaptor
ttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2xGOLD-PHONO-BNC-ADAPTORS-FOR-NAIM-32-42-52-62-PRE-AMPS_W0QQitemZ300128245835QQihZ020QQcategoryZ122649QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
4) DaCapo BNC input.
My Cardinal is being repaired by CPTAcoustics (Colin Toogood). In the meanwhile, I'm using a Cambridge Audio CD3 as the transport device, but its sound is almost pathetic, man, that's why I tried this (old)PC-DaCapo combination. While I usually listen to Bach, Haydn, Haendel, etc, with the Cardinal, these holidays I'm listening to a lot of Frank Zappa, Jeff Beck, King Crimson, Pink Floyd ... in MP3 format , and it does sound (IMHO).
Regards,
LORIP: Are you going to bid for the Tarantella?
You might find your sound improves if you use a plastic or even better a glass optical TOSlink from your sound card or motherboard if it has SPDIF output.
We tried many forms of electrical cable for SPDIF, including a BNC onto a DACMagic and an S700.
The shorter and better the wire the better the sound, even a solid silver lead was used.
But even the cheap plastic TOSLink always was better.
Then we used USB out to converters into SPDIF with either or both electrical and TOSLink output.
Was better than soundcard or Mobo.
The very best so far is an Edirol, no longer made. Even though it's only USB bus fed it beat an MAudio converter with a very elaborate PSU (300VA toroid, Black gate's, discrete regulators).
I don't think I'll be going back to using my CD player again. That was a Philips 960 that over the years I spent about £1000 on. It has 5 transformers, 3 of them being large custom audio types, multiple black gate and OsCon arrays, discrete regulators, silver PSU wire to the DAC board and Litz returns for the digital earths to the digital PSU, full re-wire internally eliminating most copper tracks, decoder and filter updated, custom reclocking module feeding the DAC and decoder and filter, DAC replaced with a SAA7350 with 5 regulators and black gate decoupling, output chips being AD847 and AD797 with black gates, vishays and polystyrene, to the terminals. Etc!
Despite the substantial rework it was far from perfected but when compared to the 'pute setup into just a standard DACMagic 2 I bought for £30, WOW!! I've not used the Philips since!
I feel the 7350 might have been a large part of the problem. Although it was a pretty good CD player, it always had a somewhat recessed mid. The S700 sounds the same as does another player conversion I had that also used a 7350 for it's DAC.
The Philips 1305 DAC (or is it 1307, I forget just now) however, whilst still being bitstream, does not have that problem. The DACMagic uses that chip.
I did try DACMagic's from a few transports over the years and thought it was a very poor sounding DAC. But I realise now that the transports were to blame.
We tried many forms of electrical cable for SPDIF, including a BNC onto a DACMagic and an S700.
The shorter and better the wire the better the sound, even a solid silver lead was used.
But even the cheap plastic TOSLink always was better.
Then we used USB out to converters into SPDIF with either or both electrical and TOSLink output.
Was better than soundcard or Mobo.
The very best so far is an Edirol, no longer made. Even though it's only USB bus fed it beat an MAudio converter with a very elaborate PSU (300VA toroid, Black gate's, discrete regulators).
I don't think I'll be going back to using my CD player again. That was a Philips 960 that over the years I spent about £1000 on. It has 5 transformers, 3 of them being large custom audio types, multiple black gate and OsCon arrays, discrete regulators, silver PSU wire to the DAC board and Litz returns for the digital earths to the digital PSU, full re-wire internally eliminating most copper tracks, decoder and filter updated, custom reclocking module feeding the DAC and decoder and filter, DAC replaced with a SAA7350 with 5 regulators and black gate decoupling, output chips being AD847 and AD797 with black gates, vishays and polystyrene, to the terminals. Etc!
Despite the substantial rework it was far from perfected but when compared to the 'pute setup into just a standard DACMagic 2 I bought for £30, WOW!! I've not used the Philips since!
I feel the 7350 might have been a large part of the problem. Although it was a pretty good CD player, it always had a somewhat recessed mid. The S700 sounds the same as does another player conversion I had that also used a 7350 for it's DAC.
The Philips 1305 DAC (or is it 1307, I forget just now) however, whilst still being bitstream, does not have that problem. The DACMagic uses that chip.
I did try DACMagic's from a few transports over the years and thought it was a very poor sounding DAC. But I realise now that the transports were to blame.
A friend is now using an Auzentech X-Meridian soundcard.
Taking analogue out direct to his amplifier (no pre-amp used) and that's sounding very good indeed.
Of course we had to mod the Auzentech
Changed the chips to OPA2134 which gave more bass than the 2132's. And removed the electrolytic DC blockers. Yeah, it was well worth taking those out! By measurement, inc during power up and power off, the DC offsets are small enough to never cause a problem.
Taking analogue out direct to his amplifier (no pre-amp used) and that's sounding very good indeed.
Of course we had to mod the Auzentech
Changed the chips to OPA2134 which gave more bass than the 2132's. And removed the electrolytic DC blockers. Yeah, it was well worth taking those out! By measurement, inc during power up and power off, the DC offsets are small enough to never cause a problem.
M-Audio soundcard has no optical output; I could use a coaxial/optical converter, though. My DaCapo has no optical input (is there such DIC available?).
Funny you mentioned the DACmagic as it was designed by John Westlake too.
What the hell is a "USB out to converters into SPDIF with either or both electrical and TOSLink output" ?
Do you really mean that the PC-TOSlink-DACMagic set sounds better than a CD transport-DACMagic one?
Interesting issue. Thanks, Ian.
Funny you mentioned the DACmagic as it was designed by John Westlake too.
What the hell is a "USB out to converters into SPDIF with either or both electrical and TOSLink output" ?
Do you really mean that the PC-TOSlink-DACMagic set sounds better than a CD transport-DACMagic one?
Interesting issue. Thanks, Ian.
"DaCapo has no optical input"
"the DACmagic was designed by John Westlake too"
That's WHY I said that
USB out of the PC to a
converter to change USB into SPDIF with either electrical or TOSlink output, but preferably TOSlink, to
the DAC's SPDIF input.
"Do you really mean that the PC's USB output-converter-TOSlink-DACMagic set sounds better than a CD transport-DACMagic?"
Yes, a lot better.
The ideal would be to have a USB socket on the DAC. Then a chip that changed USB into something the DAC chips could use and there be no SPDIF anywhere at all as that seems to be a source of degradation.
But Lo....
Step in to the frame the Auzentech X-Meridian.
PCI bus-digital processor-Decent DAC chips-Decent OpAmps. Then (in my case) long analogue interconnects to monoblock HiFi poweramps right up near the speakers with minimal length speaker cable.
Yay!
It could be better still if they made it an external soundcard with a USB socket and charged much less money. Then I could easily have a soundcard right up with, or inside, each monoblock power amp and completely eliminate all interconnect cable. Provided the software could control up to 8 soundcards for a 7.1 system.
The new John Westlake digital amps are rather like this but they go further by having the DAC and amp as one. But I expect he hasn't included a USB socket nor software for the PC to control them.
There is a USB to SPDIF chip and I planned to make such a fitment myself so I could eliminate the TOSlink and have USB into my stereo DAC.
If your PC is a long way from your DAC you can run up to three USB extention cables each five metres in length and keep the SPDIF run short. We could hear no degradation with the USB extentions.
As you have no optical on the DaCappo you could do what we did originally and, using a phono plug to BNC plug adapter, plug the converter direct onto the SPDIF coax input on the DaCappo. Of course you'll need a converter with coac output.
See if you can find an Edirol UA-1D.
"the DACmagic was designed by John Westlake too"
That's WHY I said that
USB out of the PC to a
converter to change USB into SPDIF with either electrical or TOSlink output, but preferably TOSlink, to
the DAC's SPDIF input.
"Do you really mean that the PC's USB output-converter-TOSlink-DACMagic set sounds better than a CD transport-DACMagic?"
Yes, a lot better.
The ideal would be to have a USB socket on the DAC. Then a chip that changed USB into something the DAC chips could use and there be no SPDIF anywhere at all as that seems to be a source of degradation.
But Lo....
Step in to the frame the Auzentech X-Meridian.
PCI bus-digital processor-Decent DAC chips-Decent OpAmps. Then (in my case) long analogue interconnects
to monoblock HiFi poweramps right up near the speakers with minimal length speaker cable. Yay!
It could be better still if they made it an external soundcard with a USB socket and charged much less money. Then I could easily have a soundcard right up with, or inside, each monoblock power amp and completely eliminate all interconnect cable. Provided the software could control up to 8 soundcards for a 7.1 system.
The new John Westlake digital amps are rather like this but they go further by having the DAC and amp as one. But I expect he hasn't included a USB socket nor software for the PC to control them.
There is a USB to SPDIF chip and I planned to make such a fitment myself so I could eliminate the TOSlink and have USB into my stereo DAC.
If your PC is a long way from your DAC you can run up to three USB extention cables each five metres in length and keep the SPDIF run short. We could hear no degradation with the USB extentions.
As you have no optical on the DaCappo you could do what we did originally and, using a phono plug to BNC plug adapter, plug the converter direct onto the SPDIF coax input on the DaCappo. Of course you'll need a converter with coac output.
See if you can find an Edirol UA-1D.
Another possibility is the Edirol UA-1X or UA-1EX.
http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.aspx?ObjectId=635 http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.aspx?ObjectId=743
There is also the M-audio Transit.
I haven't tried either.
UA-1D:
http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.aspx?ObjectId=455
I just saw there is a UA-3D for 5.1 use. My 1D doesn't pass the Dolby Digital through to my Yamaha home theatre amp when I connect to there for video playback.
http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.aspx?ObjectId=635 http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.aspx?ObjectId=743
There is also the M-audio Transit.
I haven't tried either.
UA-1D:
http://www.rolandus.com/products/productdetails.aspx?ObjectId=455
I just saw there is a UA-3D for 5.1 use. My 1D doesn't pass the Dolby Digital through to my Yamaha home theatre amp when I connect to there for video playback.