Holy Cow!! So it just worked like that. That's amazing, congratulations.
In the meantime, I also have been trying various options/fixes to understand the problem.
Try 1 - Allo's Sparky (Software Volumia) ->I2S Out ->jumper cables -> DDDAC's I2S In = Massive Crackling sound from left channel (this was say 5 times the crackling observed when Sparky & Kali play together via I2S). Tried modifying the mpd.conf file with the suggested FIFO changes but it did not work out.
Read through the release notes 3.1 of Moode Audio and was extremely hopeful to see it mention proper compatibility with DDDAC as a pre-added device under the USB/I2S device list & also the fact that it pre-packages an MPD wildcard resample rates FIFO, FIFO scheduler for MPD. My understanding is that the crackle is due to the bit rates transferred to the DDDAC and that I was not able to set it up properly via the mpd.conf file in Volumio.
Hence, I ordered a Raspberry Pi 3 to try out the Kali with that and Moode Audio.
And.....the issue is FIXED !! I was so ecstatic when this issue was solved. For anyone who still uses an old RED motherboard and is wanting to go the Pi-based streamer route, here is what I had to try.
Played music through the Pi/Kali combo via I2S and music was clean but still there was a bit of crackle. Interestingly the crackle was very faint and non intrusive. However, I wanted a clean signal out till the last refinement. I started playing around with the settings and specially the MPD settings. I checked the HW parameters through the kernel and saw that at default settings 32 bit output was being sent to the DDDAC (or thats what the parameters said). I changed the rescheduled from TS to FIFO hoping that it will fix the crackle but it dint. I then changed the sampling rates to 16bit/* -> crackle dint go away, changed it to 24bit/* -> no change. Then I just thought let me change the rate to 24 bit & 192Khz and...it was GONE !! there was clean music coming out and my god does it sound OPEN. I agree that it is the best output I have heard from my DDDAC till date. Although from a puritan's point of view fixing the output to 24/192 is not ideal but at least it gives me the hope that it is fixable. I will try out more things to work out the as-is playback and report my observations.
Cheers !!
What are you guys using to power the Kali and RPI combo? Spec on the Volumio site is 5V/3A.
They sell a "Wall wart" which us supposed to have filtering but I'm wondering is there a good alternative, as I don;t really want to have to plugin the wall wart as well as a power lead to the DDDAC?
They sell a "Wall wart" which us supposed to have filtering but I'm wondering is there a good alternative, as I don;t really want to have to plugin the wall wart as well as a power lead to the DDDAC?
Hello,
Need to get some sleep before connecting the output power cables to the ll1662. Then check once again before connecting my gear. The soldering terminations that lundahl uses are to flimsy for Me!
Just a few hours and I will know if I will buy one or two more ll1662 for my other electronics.
Greetings, eduard
Need to get some sleep before connecting the output power cables to the ll1662. Then check once again before connecting my gear. The soldering terminations that lundahl uses are to flimsy for Me!
Just a few hours and I will know if I will buy one or two more ll1662 for my other electronics.
Greetings, eduard
Are you replacing the WaveIO with the Pi+Kali? You could use the PSU for the WaveIO.
Hi all,
I am building this beast too and am planning to supply both the dddac and the RPi with dedicated power and provide power to the Kali through the dddac. Would that make sense?
Alongside that, I also have a third power supply for a balanced line stage of two a24 boards from amb.org
Steef
I am building this beast too and am planning to supply both the dddac and the RPi with dedicated power and provide power to the Kali through the dddac. Would that make sense?
Alongside that, I also have a third power supply for a balanced line stage of two a24 boards from amb.org
Steef
Yes that would work, but there are better and cleaner regulators and designs now, in fact I suspect the wall wart that is advertised for the Kali may have better regulation and filtering than a 7805 design, but I could be wrong
Sure. But the Kali has its own onboard regulator, I believe.Yes that would work, but there are better and cleaner regulators and designs now, in fact I suspect the wall wart that is advertised for the Kali may have better regulation and filtering than a 7805 design, but I could be wrong
Removal bypass of Spdif
Hi Forum
In my Dddac build i use BBB-Hermes-Cronus-Dddac and don't need the Spdif option, is it ok only to remove the two LF33 and caps around them, and the 3 resistors R9-R10-R11. Or should i also remove WM8804 the Tent clock and all caps and resistors connecting to them?
Thanks Bastian
Hi Forum
In my Dddac build i use BBB-Hermes-Cronus-Dddac and don't need the Spdif option, is it ok only to remove the two LF33 and caps around them, and the 3 resistors R9-R10-R11. Or should i also remove WM8804 the Tent clock and all caps and resistors connecting to them?
Thanks Bastian
Why don't you just leave those parts where they are? There's nothing wrong with them.
Looking at the schematic I see that the SPDIF and I2S inputs are pretty much separated from each other. If one is active, the other one is disconnected via IC4.
One could probably dream up a case that, for example when I2S is selected active at the USB/SPDIF switch, the SPDIF converter (IC5) might still output some random/undefined signal to IC4, and some of this might leak to the output of IC4, thus affecting the I2S signal going the 1/2 clock delay and the DAC boards. If you like to fight such dreams, removing the two LF33 would kill the power supply of IC5, and therefore remove any signals coming out of IC5. But I'd be VERY surprised if these dreams would have anything to do with reality ;-)
Just give it a try and report back if you observe any changes!