I am actually considering making such a board, I just do not have the time needed for making such a board at the moment.
However, there will be a Bragi MKII sometime in the future.
Changes would be getting rid of the volume pot, it is not really needed and I am not even using that option myself, I just put jumpers in instead of the pot.
So basically, remove volume pot, add AD1896 + supplies for it, change crystal to 24.576MHz, possible using U.fl connectors for the digital input. Then I would have to rearrange a few components and it should be done.
But it is just an idea I have, maybe I will have something to show a few months from now. 🙂
However, there will be a Bragi MKII sometime in the future.
Changes would be getting rid of the volume pot, it is not really needed and I am not even using that option myself, I just put jumpers in instead of the pot.
So basically, remove volume pot, add AD1896 + supplies for it, change crystal to 24.576MHz, possible using U.fl connectors for the digital input. Then I would have to rearrange a few components and it should be done.
But it is just an idea I have, maybe I will have something to show a few months from now. 🙂
I search Taobao for ES9023. Maybe it comes to Ebay ? Maybe no.
US$30 TE7022L+ES9023 USB DAC ´øͬÖáSPDIFÓëI2SÊä³ö-ÌÔ±¦Íø
US$30 TE7022L+ES9023 USB DAC ´øͬÖáSPDIFÓëI2SÊä³ö-ÌÔ±¦Íø
I fitted Epson XG1000 50Mhz SAW to MCLK pin. The stereo space got bigger and isolator is better too. For Epson, I use power from Tenor 12Mhz with 1uF + ferrite + 100nF. I use sox resampler + KS. This is great sound from cheap parts. Amazing. 🙂
Doesn't it bother anyone that the TE7022 doesn't do 88.2?
This drove me nuts until I replaced it, and I still can't figure out why they left that out.
This drove me nuts until I replaced it, and I still can't figure out why they left that out.
The TE7022 is not supporting asynchronous USB. I'm wondering if there is a similar (in terms of cost and performance) chip that runs asynchronous.
Regarding Tenor: E.g. Audio-GD pretty quickly got away from those asynch TE80xx Tenor chips, which were supposed to be even better, though more expensive , then the TE70xx ones. ( Now they use VIA Envy VT1731 - no, no XMOS)
Regarding Tenor: E.g. Audio-GD pretty quickly got away from those asynch TE80xx Tenor chips, which were supposed to be even better, though more expensive , then the TE70xx ones. ( Now they use VIA Envy VT1731 - no, no XMOS)
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Indeed, and it supports every common combination of sample rate and resolution, all the way up to 192/32.
It was an easy choice for me.
BTW, soundcheck, the CM6631A works perfectly plug and play with kernel 3.7.6. Full USB2Audio mode all the way up to 192/24. Without a hitch.
Interesting. I'd guess a 39$ DAC with async USB and some of those tweaks that's been discussed over here applied, looks like a very appealing device.
Perhaps somebody should give HifiMeDiy a hint. 😉
Though I'm not sure if the ADUM isolator of the DAC 2 -- which seems to be doing quite a good job -- would still work with the CM6631A.
Cheers
Perhaps somebody should give HifiMeDiy a hint. 😉
Though I'm not sure if the ADUM isolator of the DAC 2 -- which seems to be doing quite a good job -- would still work with the CM6631A.
Cheers
I'm still using my SBT Touch with Toslink out to the DDX320.
Havn't found anything better yet.
A USB dac I'd use as backup solution. 😉 But it's good to know that those work under Linux.
ADUM4160 can work with the CM6631 (plug device into iso, switch on iso, plug iso into PC) but it switches the driver into a slower speed so the device becomes limited to 96/24. I haven't managed to get it to work with CM6631A. (31A supports 176.4 but non_A doesn't)
Volume issues
Did anyone have volume problem with the USB variant.
Plug n play on Linux (alsa+mpd) works well but plays a lot less loud than my wm8741 dac
Did anyone have volume problem with the USB variant.
Plug n play on Linux (alsa+mpd) works well but plays a lot less loud than my wm8741 dac
Maybe you can try an op amp on the output for small gain. AD8397 can drive headphones directly.
Hi All,
Just a novice to DACs and had been looking at the various ebay cheapies and some lower end Fiio ones, though most of their models need an extra RCA/line adaptor.
Now found a link to this thread and the UAE23, which description was a bit confusing as it says Usb to Optical, though its seems the output connector is a jack that can be used as a line output at 2v - correct ?
Having read though all 28 pages of this thread it seems the UAE23+ model is perhaps the better model ?
Seems the advantages of the + are the volume control, RCA output sockets, isolation and external psu.
Wondered if you all agree the 23+ is the better option for a desktop system ?
Although not mentioned expect many of you are also now on W8 so wondered if there were and driver problems there ?
I'm looking to connect to an Arcam amplifier but it needs a 5 meter cable, so wondered what is the best way to do that, a long USB cable, long interconnect or 50/50 ?
Finally one for the EU guys, notice the HifimeDIY says they can post out from Belgium, but could not see any option to select in the checkout area, do they automatically send small orders out via the Belgium route ?
thanks
Just a novice to DACs and had been looking at the various ebay cheapies and some lower end Fiio ones, though most of their models need an extra RCA/line adaptor.
Now found a link to this thread and the UAE23, which description was a bit confusing as it says Usb to Optical, though its seems the output connector is a jack that can be used as a line output at 2v - correct ?
Having read though all 28 pages of this thread it seems the UAE23+ model is perhaps the better model ?
Seems the advantages of the + are the volume control, RCA output sockets, isolation and external psu.
Wondered if you all agree the 23+ is the better option for a desktop system ?
Although not mentioned expect many of you are also now on W8 so wondered if there were and driver problems there ?
I'm looking to connect to an Arcam amplifier but it needs a 5 meter cable, so wondered what is the best way to do that, a long USB cable, long interconnect or 50/50 ?
Finally one for the EU guys, notice the HifimeDIY says they can post out from Belgium, but could not see any option to select in the checkout area, do they automatically send small orders out via the Belgium route ?
thanks
If only for desktop use, I would choose the UA23+. It is better for future tweaking if so desired.
The output is at a low impedance, so a long interconnect for the audio will not make any noticable difference. But then, this is DIY. Try either way and let us know your results.
For portable laptop use, the UA23 is so convenient. In fact, I would have both, as the price is so small.
I have ordered a second UA23 to the UK a couple of months ago directly from Hfimediy. It was first shipped to Switzerland, then to the UK. Hfimediy choose this route.
The output is at a low impedance, so a long interconnect for the audio will not make any noticable difference. But then, this is DIY. Try either way and let us know your results.
For portable laptop use, the UA23 is so convenient. In fact, I would have both, as the price is so small.
I have ordered a second UA23 to the UK a couple of months ago directly from Hfimediy. It was first shipped to Switzerland, then to the UK. Hfimediy choose this route.
Hi,
Thanks for the reply, looks like its the 23+ for me then.
Interested to know if you had any import duty/vat to pay and how much the Royal Mail added on, partic as Switzerland is not in the EU so think like from the Far East anything over £18 is liable for duty ? or were you lucky and it came though ok ..
Thanks for the reply, looks like its the 23+ for me then.
Interested to know if you had any import duty/vat to pay and how much the Royal Mail added on, partic as Switzerland is not in the EU so think like from the Far East anything over £18 is liable for duty ? or were you lucky and it came though ok ..
The UK customs people have never charged me import duty for anything I have ordered from out of the UK. I have not made any purchases for more than £50. For low value items, they do not seem to bother. I have done over a dozen out of UK purchases-- never had a problem.
Getting rid of the pot in UAE23+
If I desolder the pot, does anyone know which sets of points I should short to provide a set of bypass for the L/R signals?
If I desolder the pot, does anyone know which sets of points I should short to provide a set of bypass for the L/R signals?
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