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Old 12th October 2012, 09:40 AM   #221
Dimdim is offline Dimdim  Greece
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AFAIK when you change the parameters for a specific input, they are saved in an array and at the EEPROM. When you switch inputs, the specific parameters are recalled and applied. I'm talking about input type (s/pdif vs. i2s) etc.
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Old 12th October 2012, 10:30 AM   #222
DQ828 is offline DQ828  Australia
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The backlight dimming has worked, the 3.3v & 5v connections from the Mega to the Shield are still in place, the 5v goes via a relay which switches when I turn the system on.
I have bent the LED pin on the screen at 90 degrees, cut a small slot in the shield 40 pin socket so the screen still plugs all the way in. I have then soldered on a lead to the LED added 2 resistors in series/parallel, to get 54 ohms, put a plug on the end of the lead & plugged it into the Mega 7 pin.

I have written the code so the backlight turn on at a defined brightness & can be adjusted with the left button on the Apple Ring, when I put it into sleep mode the backlight dims to defined value & turns back up if the sleep function is aborted. When the system is turned off the backlight is lowered to 0 volts.

BUT, why is there always a but? For some mystical reason the addition of the backlight dimming is playing havoc with the remote reception. After much grief I finally go the remote working every time but now it is back to misbehaving, could it be something to do with the PWM voltage that is now in the system, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12th October 2012, 12:29 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimdim View Post
AFAIK when you change the parameters for a specific input, they are saved in an array and at the EEPROM. When you switch inputs, the specific parameters are recalled and applied. I'm talking about input type (s/pdif vs. i2s) etc.
Yes, that's another function to detect SPDIF and I2S and set the specific parameters accordingly. Not the bug I found.
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Old 12th October 2012, 12:31 PM   #224
Dimdim is offline Dimdim  Greece
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In that case, I am not getting what the bug was. Could you be a little more specific or better yet, post some code?
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Old 12th October 2012, 12:47 PM   #225
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HiFiduino's code setAndPrint all other parameters every time after the setAndPrintInput, so all other parameters will be changed when selecting input since all these function use "input" as the reference value for "CASE" selection. I remove those setAndPrint from setAndPrintInput and put them into a new "refresh ALL" function.
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Old 12th October 2012, 12:51 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQ828 View Post
The backlight dimming has worked, the 3.3v & 5v connections from the Mega to the Shield are still in place, the 5v goes via a relay which switches when I turn the system on.
I have bent the LED pin on the screen at 90 degrees, cut a small slot in the shield 40 pin socket so the screen still plugs all the way in. I have then soldered on a lead to the LED added 2 resistors in series/parallel, to get 54 ohms, put a plug on the end of the lead & plugged it into the Mega 7 pin.

I have written the code so the backlight turn on at a defined brightness & can be adjusted with the left button on the Apple Ring, when I put it into sleep mode the backlight dims to defined value & turns back up if the sleep function is aborted. When the system is turned off the backlight is lowered to 0 volts.

BUT, why is there always a but? For some mystical reason the addition of the backlight dimming is playing havoc with the remote reception. After much grief I finally go the remote working every time but now it is back to misbehaving, could it be something to do with the PWM voltage that is now in the system, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Will try to isolate the LED pin from Arduino Shield during the weekend and advise you the result. I realize that you connect both 5V and 3.3V from Arduino to the shield, you should only connect either one. If you connect the 5V, then put the switch on the shield to 5V and the regulator on the shield will convert it to 3.3V for the LCD. If you connect both, then you still have 3.3V supply to the LCD even you disconnected the 5V.
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Old 12th October 2012, 03:25 PM   #227
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I remove the pin 19 for LED and solder a 47ohm resistor. Use Arduino analogWrite to control LED On/Off/Dim without any problem.
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Old 12th October 2012, 04:02 PM   #228
glt is offline glt  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimdim View Post
In that case, I am not getting what the bug was. Could you be a little more specific or better yet, post some code?
Yeah, I am most interested in this bug :-). The way it is currently programmed (as dimdim said) is that every input has independent settings for each function, and they are saved in eeprom. When you switch to another input, the settings are recalled from the eeprom and programmed into the registers. Granted, not all of the them would change, but it was easiest to just rewrite all the values into the registers everytime you change inputs.
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Old 12th October 2012, 04:07 PM   #229
glt is offline glt  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DQ828 View Post
The backlight dimming has worked, the 3.3v & 5v connections from the Mega to the Shield are still in place, the 5v goes via a relay which switches when I turn the system on.
I have bent the LED pin on the screen at 90 degrees, cut a small slot in the shield 40 pin socket so the screen still plugs all the way in. I have then soldered on a lead to the LED added 2 resistors in series/parallel, to get 54 ohms, put a plug on the end of the lead & plugged it into the Mega 7 pin.

I have written the code so the backlight turn on at a defined brightness & can be adjusted with the left button on the Apple Ring, when I put it into sleep mode the backlight dims to defined value & turns back up if the sleep function is aborted. When the system is turned off the backlight is lowered to 0 volts.

BUT, why is there always a but? For some mystical reason the addition of the backlight dimming is playing havoc with the remote reception. After much grief I finally go the remote working every time but now it is back to misbehaving, could it be something to do with the PWM voltage that is now in the system, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Very nice!

I too had some problems with the remote when using analog write. I was not able to find the reason, so I gave up controlling the brightness with the Arduino and used a manual pot. It is possible, the pulsating LCD is creating a lot of noise and interfering with the IR sensor. I documented some issues here: Apple Remote Control for Buffalo II DAC H i F i D U I N O
BTW, what are those small orange boards?
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Old 12th October 2012, 10:02 PM   #230
DQ828 is offline DQ828  Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigpandahk View Post
I remove the pin 19 for LED and solder a 47ohm resistor. Use Arduino analogWrite to control LED On/Off/Dim without any problem.
Pin 19? must be a different screen, mine is pin 37
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