Wow, nice. I wasn't aware you can run 3V. Thank you for the play-by-play. It will lessen the learning curve for us.
I'm leaning towards the "screw"-type kit, but the 2.85V 3100F Super Capacitors need to be ordered direct from the factory. The shipping is almost $50 domestically, so will pass for now. I think I'll wait a year for this since this is for the 15V which I don't need just yet.
For now, I'm considering ordering a Advanced Linear protection board and two Skeleton Technologies 3200F to experiment since I'm in no hurry.
The Eaton you have will move up my list, and Tecates only if I have something else to order from Digikey.
I'm leaning towards the "screw"-type kit, but the 2.85V 3100F Super Capacitors need to be ordered direct from the factory. The shipping is almost $50 domestically, so will pass for now. I think I'll wait a year for this since this is for the 15V which I don't need just yet.
For now, I'm considering ordering a Advanced Linear protection board and two Skeleton Technologies 3200F to experiment since I'm in no hurry.
The Eaton you have will move up my list, and Tecates only if I have something else to order from Digikey.
Eaton! I work for Eaton! But unfortunately not in the same division so I can't get discounts.
^^^ Yes! Now we have someone to blame if anything goes wrong with our Eaton products. No excuse being in a different division.
Ian, thanks for pointing out the LEDs. It helps confirm I'm on the right track in procuring brand name protection boards.
These protection boards were targeted towards the car audio circuit. Released in maybe mid 10's so they are original or close to the original protection boards.
I'm trying to get my protection boards via kits. Amazon only as a last resort as I try to avoid knockoffs. As an end user, I can't tell the difference if a knockoff is of quality. For the pros, they can probably spot a quality knockoff. For me, I'm more comfortable with something brand name.
I also trying to get Maxwell kits:
https://www.richardsonrfpd.com/docs/rfpd/Maxwell_Integration_Kit_rev5.pdf
Eaton supposedly has a kit too, but no luck so far.
Ian, thanks for pointing out the LEDs. It helps confirm I'm on the right track in procuring brand name protection boards.
These protection boards were targeted towards the car audio circuit. Released in maybe mid 10's so they are original or close to the original protection boards.
I'm trying to get my protection boards via kits. Amazon only as a last resort as I try to avoid knockoffs. As an end user, I can't tell the difference if a knockoff is of quality. For the pros, they can probably spot a quality knockoff. For me, I'm more comfortable with something brand name.
I also trying to get Maxwell kits:
https://www.richardsonrfpd.com/docs/rfpd/Maxwell_Integration_Kit_rev5.pdf
Eaton supposedly has a kit too, but no luck so far.
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How do ya' like dem apples? In this case, mind-blowing low ESR.
Unfortunately, it's manufactured outside Europe and difficult to purchase for most.
Capacitor Cells – SECH SA
Unfortunately, it's manufactured outside Europe and difficult to purchase for most.
Capacitor Cells – SECH SA
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yeah, the differences between all of these in practice will be deleted, as without any kind of feedback, whatever traces, connectors, wires etc come after them in the circuit will dominate the resistance/impedance as they will be an order of magnitude higher. I would not expect to even be able to measure a difference, let alone hear one.
I understand, I don't go by numbers alone. Just amazed @ the tech.
But I don't trust the numbers. It's a 100% non-European company in the heart of Europe.
For my criteria, Skeleton Technologies checks all the boxes and their numbers are not far off. .17 versus .12. But Skeleton has their own unique Graphene tech which to me is more important.
BTW, I placed an order for the protection board kit. It will take 5 weeks to special order so in that time I can narrow down my Ultra Cap decision. So it gives me plenty of time to weigh options since the important piece is WIP.
I just don't know where to find M12 female thread locks yet...
But I don't trust the numbers. It's a 100% non-European company in the heart of Europe.
For my criteria, Skeleton Technologies checks all the boxes and their numbers are not far off. .17 versus .12. But Skeleton has their own unique Graphene tech which to me is more important.
BTW, I placed an order for the protection board kit. It will take 5 weeks to special order so in that time I can narrow down my Ultra Cap decision. So it gives me plenty of time to weigh options since the important piece is WIP.
I just don't know where to find M12 female thread locks yet...
I assume these would work fine?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003264095308.html?ug_edm_item_id=1005003264095308&edm_click_module=item_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_24687_1_en_US_2021-11-04&rowan_msg_id=1799biz_search_product:0:0_4543793$c9245f03cbc94288844bed189dd6108a&ck=in_edm_other
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000001731159.html?ug_edm_item_id=4000001731159&edm_click_module=item_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_24687_1_en_US_2021-11-04&rowan_msg_id=1799biz_search_product:0:0_4543793$c9245f03cbc94288844bed189dd6108a&ck=in_edm_other
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003264095308.html?ug_edm_item_id=1005003264095308&edm_click_module=item_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_24687_1_en_US_2021-11-04&rowan_msg_id=1799biz_search_product:0:0_4543793$c9245f03cbc94288844bed189dd6108a&ck=in_edm_other
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000001731159.html?ug_edm_item_id=4000001731159&edm_click_module=item_detail&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=aeug_edm_24687_1_en_US_2021-11-04&rowan_msg_id=1799biz_search_product:0:0_4543793$c9245f03cbc94288844bed189dd6108a&ck=in_edm_other
Yes. I had to try though. I missed out on the Pulsar Clock and Maxwell Golden Age, so I have to at least make an attempt. Acutally, there's one for sale on Amazon third-party near $200. It's probably best I miss out on the Maxwell kit as there is an active and a passive and I have no clue which is the proper one.
I also checked with Maxwell HQ and no kit and they are deciding on production again on the 3000F and will let me know if they do so.
I already made a decision on a kit so hope it turns out okay:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pow...po4-battery-power-supply-161.html#post6837417
So Plan:
Even if I drill a larger hole in the center, I don't think it affects the outer holes where I would normally use a pair of Philip screws to tighten. I will examine the protection boards if it's safe to drill then decide on Ultra Caps afterwards.
I also checked with Maxwell HQ and no kit and they are deciding on production again on the 3000F and will let me know if they do so.
I already made a decision on a kit so hope it turns out okay:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pow...po4-battery-power-supply-161.html#post6837417
So Plan:
- Stick with the Ultra Caps that my kit is perfectly tailored-made. The Ultra Caps are mainly for US-based car audio enthusiast and I'm pretty sure shipping would be outrageous Internationally. They bought out a highly respected Ultra Cap company, but there whole target market is mainly car / boat audio.
- Drill larger hole in the center on protection board to fit Eaton or Tecate and tighten with M12 screws.
Even if I drill a larger hole in the center, I don't think it affects the outer holes where I would normally use a pair of Philip screws to tighten. I will examine the protection boards if it's safe to drill then decide on Ultra Caps afterwards.
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I'm planning a fairly convoluted build that will require multiple independent FifoPis. What's the best way to share an external clock between them? I have a single high quality source I'd like to use.
I've considered just using an SMA splitter from my external clock (in this case a neutron star 3) to 2 x u.fl cables and then adding the optional connector to the fifopi but I'm kind of lost trying to figure out if there's any caveats or a "proper" way.
I've considered just using an SMA splitter from my external clock (in this case a neutron star 3) to 2 x u.fl cables and then adding the optional connector to the fifopi but I'm kind of lost trying to figure out if there's any caveats or a "proper" way.
Hello,
Just a QUICK search:
C60T-3R0-3000 SECH SA | Rutronik24 Distributor
It is true you need a proper connection to maintain the state of the art specs. With M12 you can apply lots of force on the circuit board. Possible it will crack if you dont use a special washer and/or a special tool that will allow you to reduce the torque applied.
If the M12 thread is long enough maybe you can create a '' sturdy '' connection between the output wire and the part of the M12 thread closest to the cap and then use another nut to attach the circuit.
The French wrote some articles in the eighties about keeping the specs of expensive caps and batteries as good as possible by using special '' technique '' and Electrolube. Back then those specs were not as spectaculair as nowadays products.
One more reason i will decide to keep connections between supplies and circuits short but above all with a limited number of '' elements ''.
My idea is that using a cable with 100% more diameter wont always be better. If you use a cable that will just fit into the kind of terminal you will usually see on circuit boards OR you will just solder a thinner cable and skip terminals on both sides which one will give the best results?
Again my idea is that you wont need the enormous current '' capability '' of these monstercaps. So i would focus on a good connection that will remain good for a long time.
Greetings, Eduard
Thanks @eduard
I'll avoid modding the protection board to use M12 and stick with the Philip screws for a more solid connection. Too much risk of human error on my side.
It was also recommended to use anti-oxidant or Loctite for a even more solid connection since the base is flat, more metal connection than an M12. The washers should help too.
So I will go the car audio Ultra Cap route pending successful purchase of the kit.
Here's a video of putting together the car audio Ultra Caps. I have a torque Philips, but not a torque wrench so it all seems to be working out.
How to Make your Own Supercapacitor @any Voltage!! - YouTube
That's why I was willing to spend a little more for the kit. It's pretty dummy proof and I get brand name protection boards. It's also been tested in the car audio world, so if their were any red flags it would of been posted by now.
I'll avoid modding the protection board to use M12 and stick with the Philip screws for a more solid connection. Too much risk of human error on my side.
It was also recommended to use anti-oxidant or Loctite for a even more solid connection since the base is flat, more metal connection than an M12. The washers should help too.
So I will go the car audio Ultra Cap route pending successful purchase of the kit.
Here's a video of putting together the car audio Ultra Caps. I have a torque Philips, but not a torque wrench so it all seems to be working out.
How to Make your Own Supercapacitor @any Voltage!! - YouTube
That's why I was willing to spend a little more for the kit. It's pretty dummy proof and I get brand name protection boards. It's also been tested in the car audio world, so if their were any red flags it would of been posted by now.
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To get the full 30KAmps you would need .4 milliOhms between the +&- terminal. That would be a 6 AWG (.15" diameter) wire between the terminals ASSUMING no resistance at the connection. I think you could use all of that .4 milliOhms in the connections before connecting to the wire.
And it says nothing about the internal inductance which would be the limiting factor for audio performance. As a storage device its pretty interesting however to pull the full energy out you would need a DC DC converter that will boost as the charge depletes.
And it says nothing about the internal inductance which would be the limiting factor for audio performance. As a storage device its pretty interesting however to pull the full energy out you would need a DC DC converter that will boost as the charge depletes.
Yup, exactly my point in the µC PURE thread Demian. I think you reached the limits of PCB and sane connection strategies wrt the caps and their performance. the PCB and the physical reality of using them in a real world system, will level the performance for them all, so choose based on practical mounting considerations, because there is no way to realize their performance.
Yes, there's only so many variables you can control. I'm staying as optimal practical as possible. I only use Neotech 18AWG silver solid core for all my DIY audio projects. I don't think I can ever find a way to use 6AWG. I have no clue if Ian's Oven Clock mod allows this possibility. Maybe I'll try the Neotech 16AWG for Andrea's clock. If there was such a thing as Neotech 6AWG and be able to use it practically, I would seriously consider.
Even if I use a Terminal Block, it only accepts 16AWG:
Unfortunately, I don't think there's a way to use 6AWG.
For the car audio Ultra Caps, it has good specs for a mature product:
At least the car audio Ultra Caps connection respects torque for a more solid connection. I'll eventually change to some Keystone M6 hex screws since the Philip screws in the kit seem flimsy.
For my first project to keep things simple, it's for 5V USB. I have the Gotham cable with bare wires on the other end. I'm not sure of the gauge. Maybe 20AWG... It's for USB...
Even if I use a Terminal Block, it only accepts 16AWG:
But they accept solid core cable, so that's great.
Unfortunately, I don't think there's a way to use 6AWG.
For the car audio Ultra Caps, it has good specs for a mature product:
http://www.4xspower.com/2.85V-SuperCell-Instructions.pdf
At least the car audio Ultra Caps connection respects torque for a more solid connection. I'll eventually change to some Keystone M6 hex screws since the Philip screws in the kit seem flimsy.
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