A term that can't be defined is pretty useless. Who uses it besides audiophile vendor marketing people and audiophile publications (that exist to sell advertising space)?
Yes, if you are comparing if all things equal (space constraints, ease of use, price, etc); Andrea's performance sets the standards.
But having options at different price points and use cases is a plus for this hobby.
Diminishing returns-wise, a $50 clock getting close but not exceeding standards is not a bad option. The other end is "Pulsar" which maybe outdated and likely around $400 after all the red tape.
I can see myself go Andrea for desktop and AS338 for transportable. It's just another option. A cheaper and less complicated one.
Given the tiny footprint, I welcome any progress on the clock tech on that front.
But having options at different price points and use cases is a plus for this hobby.
Diminishing returns-wise, a $50 clock getting close but not exceeding standards is not a bad option. The other end is "Pulsar" which maybe outdated and likely around $400 after all the red tape.
I can see myself go Andrea for desktop and AS338 for transportable. It's just another option. A cheaper and less complicated one.
Given the tiny footprint, I welcome any progress on the clock tech on that front.
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It's just a way to compartmentalize. Can also apply to Marketing, but in this case "SOTA" may not be the way to go to market a product category. It's just for those in the hobby.
Just like low-fi, mid-fi, hi-fi, summit-fi, etc., it's just a way to compartmentalize different products more than Marketing. Marketing would probably not use those terms, but it helps those in the hobby to distinguish different product categories based on price/performance.
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Well I decided to continue on and try to build a DDC (USB to i2S). Either I'm just inept or have bad luck, I'm not sure, but I can't seem to get the pieces to work together.
BridgePi is attached to
Amanero Combo384 - firmware and such is all up to date
On top of that is FifoPi Q3
And then an HDMIPi
I'm only powering the FifoPi with 3.3V from a LifePO4 PSU
I'm getting continuity from the Amanero through the back of the BridgePi
I can plug Combo384 into a Windows PC and it's recognized and will accept music, up to DSD512 with the correct Win10 driver
But no matter what, FifoPi Q3 displays one green XO LED - it never changes even if I change the XO's positions;
I get no other LEDs - no empty, no lock, just the one green LED over the XO closest to the clean power input
This same FifoPi Q3 worked just fine the last time I used it but in a different setup
The only change I made to it is I soldered in the 4-leg DSD_EN and Mute header. And I am new to this stuff but I at least see that I have continuity and no shorted pins, but both Ground pins read continuity against each other which I feel is probably expected.
Otherwise, I'm lost. It seems so simple, yet I can't get it. MCLK is connected between BridgePi and FifoPi.
I've also made sure the Amanero pins are not touching FifoPi, I spaced those back a bit with a nut and an 11mm standoff.
BridgePi is attached to
Amanero Combo384 - firmware and such is all up to date
On top of that is FifoPi Q3
And then an HDMIPi
I'm only powering the FifoPi with 3.3V from a LifePO4 PSU
I'm getting continuity from the Amanero through the back of the BridgePi
I can plug Combo384 into a Windows PC and it's recognized and will accept music, up to DSD512 with the correct Win10 driver
But no matter what, FifoPi Q3 displays one green XO LED - it never changes even if I change the XO's positions;
I get no other LEDs - no empty, no lock, just the one green LED over the XO closest to the clean power input
This same FifoPi Q3 worked just fine the last time I used it but in a different setup
The only change I made to it is I soldered in the 4-leg DSD_EN and Mute header. And I am new to this stuff but I at least see that I have continuity and no shorted pins, but both Ground pins read continuity against each other which I feel is probably expected.
Otherwise, I'm lost. It seems so simple, yet I can't get it. MCLK is connected between BridgePi and FifoPi.
I've also made sure the Amanero pins are not touching FifoPi, I spaced those back a bit with a nut and an 11mm standoff.
Well, the good news is I am seeing the correct lights now and I think we've made progress (I'm not testing with sound yet).
The bad news is that last night shaved off 7 hours of my life and possibly half a head of hair.
Lesson learned - ask first.
Thank you jimk04 - I followed some other posts from you where you were having a similar issue but didn't see ultimately a resolution, so I just kept plugging away. Thank you very much for responding!!
The bad news is that last night shaved off 7 hours of my life and possibly half a head of hair.
Lesson learned - ask first.
Thank you jimk04 - I followed some other posts from you where you were having a similar issue but didn't see ultimately a resolution, so I just kept plugging away. Thank you very much for responding!!
I appreciate your help, for sure.
Seems I have one more hurdle to climb, but this one is less crucial - I can get Native DSD512 to work with my Amanero through Windows, but the custom linux Pi image I'm running (HQPlayer NAA image) will only do DoP and up to DSD128. Going to try out GentooPlayer later to see if I can make it work that way. I don't think it's a firmware thing but I'm not positive, relative to the Combo384. And I did have to load an updated Win10 driver to get windows to play with Combo384 at those high rates.
Next I think I'll work on UltraCap/HybridUC for the LifePO4 on 3 3.3V rails and the one 5V rail.
Seems I have one more hurdle to climb, but this one is less crucial - I can get Native DSD512 to work with my Amanero through Windows, but the custom linux Pi image I'm running (HQPlayer NAA image) will only do DoP and up to DSD128. Going to try out GentooPlayer later to see if I can make it work that way. I don't think it's a firmware thing but I'm not positive, relative to the Combo384. And I did have to load an updated Win10 driver to get windows to play with Combo384 at those high rates.
Next I think I'll work on UltraCap/HybridUC for the LifePO4 on 3 3.3V rails and the one 5V rail.
Why you good for nothin'...
It's all good. I've got a line on it, and I'll post up when I figure out the specifics in case anyone else has a similar thing in the future.
I was hoping that by buying a brand new Combo384 from audiophonics that it might come with the latest firmware but it appears that's not the case.
It's all good. I've got a line on it, and I'll post up when I figure out the specifics in case anyone else has a similar thing in the future.
I was hoping that by buying a brand new Combo384 from audiophonics that it might come with the latest firmware but it appears that's not the case.
I assume so but considering it took me 7 hours and I didn't figure out I needed one additional power lead... let's just say I'm still squarely in "crawling before I walk" territory.
That said, I do see that BridgePi allows optional outbound power (5V) but don't see where it or Amanero have provisions for external power? I run a dual head cable, so running without USB power is at least solved on that side!
Thanks for the input, curious to hear more if you don't mind.
That said, I do see that BridgePi allows optional outbound power (5V) but don't see where it or Amanero have provisions for external power? I run a dual head cable, so running without USB power is at least solved on that side!
Thanks for the input, curious to hear more if you don't mind.
Amanero has to be modified to allow use with clean 5v power. The method is to remove the component labeled L1, which is located near the USB connector. The solder pad of L1 farther away from the USB connector is the load side, where you introduce clean 5v power. The clean 5v power ground attaches to the Amanero ground plane on the bottom of the board. A little solder mask can be scraped off near where the 5v power goes in, so that the ground can be connected nearby.
Best if the clean 5v power is on its own transformer winding so that a ground loop is not formed between the clean 5v power ground and the I2S grounds.
EDIT: However, if you are going through a FIFO_Pi then USB power problems may not have any effect on the final result at the dac chip. Depends how well the FIFO is able to isolate USB noise garbage from leaking across clock domains.
Best if the clean 5v power is on its own transformer winding so that a ground loop is not formed between the clean 5v power ground and the I2S grounds.
EDIT: However, if you are going through a FIFO_Pi then USB power problems may not have any effect on the final result at the dac chip. Depends how well the FIFO is able to isolate USB noise garbage from leaking across clock domains.
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You guys know that Amanero boards sound much better if not running on USB power, right? ...Just checking
How much better? 42 %?
Well, thanks to everyone's help - it lives. Very crude setup for now and if I want to "unhook it" I have about 8 connections to break, but that's ok. It's safe and seems to be ok with no glitches or issues. Will get more time with it tonight.
Not the best pic, but this is the whole setup:
LifePO4 mkiii on left, powered by a Dell laptop 19V/300W power supply
On the right, bottom to top:
Optical Ethernet converter and
Pi4 hardwired, both converter and Pi are running fine off LifePO4 5V DC
Amanero Combo384
BridgePi
FifoPi Q3 with AccuSilicon 90/95 oscillators - both "sides" are run off 3.3V sections of LifePO4
HDMIPi Mk I i2S/LVDS transmitter
The print on the HDMI cable encourages a "cyclone like" pattern of data transfer to my Denafrips DAC (that or it was the shortest one I could find in my box of stuff)
Now I need to figure out how I want to lay it out to sit more closely to my DAC and how I'm going to manage power to it, but first I want to wait until I can get some UC stuff without having to pay audiophonics to deliver it. We'll see. I have 2 things I am, and 3 more that I could power with good 5V power, so that complicates things a bit, in addition to the two 3.3V leads I need.
So yea, that's it!
And here is how I flashed the Amanero FW. HQPlayer NAA image is sending native DSD256 now just fine.
Not the best pic, but this is the whole setup:
LifePO4 mkiii on left, powered by a Dell laptop 19V/300W power supply
On the right, bottom to top:
Optical Ethernet converter and
Pi4 hardwired, both converter and Pi are running fine off LifePO4 5V DC
Amanero Combo384
BridgePi
FifoPi Q3 with AccuSilicon 90/95 oscillators - both "sides" are run off 3.3V sections of LifePO4
HDMIPi Mk I i2S/LVDS transmitter
The print on the HDMI cable encourages a "cyclone like" pattern of data transfer to my Denafrips DAC (that or it was the shortest one I could find in my box of stuff)
Now I need to figure out how I want to lay it out to sit more closely to my DAC and how I'm going to manage power to it, but first I want to wait until I can get some UC stuff without having to pay audiophonics to deliver it. We'll see. I have 2 things I am, and 3 more that I could power with good 5V power, so that complicates things a bit, in addition to the two 3.3V leads I need.
So yea, that's it!
And here is how I flashed the Amanero FW. HQPlayer NAA image is sending native DSD256 now just fine.