Behringer DCX2496 digital X-over - Page 276

oettle · 13th June 2010, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doug20

Do you have Wards modding service link?

Your numbers just do not add up to all my numbers I have done many, many times over the past two years. Its still comes out to about +$500 US for a decent DCX Mod. Granted I have always looked a the completely built kits. You also assume I would build an amp, That isnt going to happen so I still see this as a $600 vs $1000 debate.

Is $400 really a big deal??? It actually depends.

For contacting Ward just read the two already given links carefully.

The amp isn't a kit. It's a build B&O product ICEpower — Speaker Engine Solutions

doug20 · 13th June 2010, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oettle

For contacting Ward just read the two already given links carefully.

The amp isn't a kit. It's a build B&O product ICEpower — Speaker Engine Solutions

250SX2 is a board from B&O, even your link shows it as a board and and a kit, besides its B&Os site they do not sell amps just the modules, they sell them to businesses not individuals..

$200 Euro for two completed 2 ch amps would be simply incredible so Im looking.

VT67 · 13th June 2010, 02:47 PM

@oettle

I just read through the instructions you sent me, which for I thank you by the way.
In there you mention to temporarily remove C1,C6 and C7. Now is it possible you mean C1,C2 and C4 because these are the cap's that are in the direct area of IC1.
Still haven't figured out what you mean by bending and flattening pins and inserting header pins, but that's for a later stage. First I'm going to remove everything from the main DSP board that I wont be needing anymore.
I'll be back

Regards

oettle · 14th June 2010, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doug20

$200 Euro for two completed 2 ch amps would be simply incredible so Im looking.

This link might help you (B&O ICEPOWER 125ASX2): Digital amplifier modules from CAD AUDIO DK

BudP · 14th June 2010, 10:45 PM

Thanks Jan. Communication has been achieved, monies sent etc.

Bud

doug20 · 15th June 2010, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oettle

This link might help you (B&O ICEPOWER 125ASX2): Digital amplifier modules from CAD AUDIO DK

Its still all kits that I have to put together and none of them are $100 Euro per amp.

Anyways, we have beaten this $$$ vs $$$ topic down enough no need to worry about it.

jan.didden · 15th June 2010, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BudP

Thanks Jan. Communication has been achieved, monies sent etc.

Bud

It bit me a few times. We Europeans think that 11/6 is 11 June, you guys think it is 6 Nov...

I try to spell out dates in my international contacts.

jd

charlesp210 · 15th July 2010, 09:46 PM

Back from vacation, I'm ready to order 2496 mods now (finally!). It looks like the easiest first step is to get the Oettle src/clock mod fully assembled. I use AES/EBU input at rates from 44.1 to 96khz mainly (though 192k is sometimes available). I would prefer not to do much soldering, but especially I *cannot* do any SMD soldering...wouldn't even want to try. Isn't this just ribbon cable plug in?

For output, I like pseudo balanced operation because I have combination of balanced and unbalanced components. I don't mind the full output level of the DCX, but could probably get by with 5V RMS if it can do that cleanly. No transformers please. I don't need level controls on output, but it looks like the best option for me (Jan's active) includes remote level control whether I need it or not. But I'm not clear about what kind of soldering skill that requires.

BudP · 15th July 2010, 11:51 PM

Am in the middle of Jan's board right now.

How are your ribbon cable skills?

Other than the two 6 pin SMD chips for analog in, if you need it, everything else is straight forward and clear.

Some notes:

Put all resistors, called for in each step, in first. Then mount other components.

Pre fit all of the components for the remote board before soldering. There is an interference fit problem with one of the tiny WIMA caps and one of the centipede chip headers you should be aware of.

The stand offs that hold the remote board in place will need about another 0.030" in extra height to allow the board to be centered in the space available, or you MUST pull all components down very tight to the board. I just used a nylon spacer available from my local hardware store oddities bins.

The main board is a delight, real ground planes, no wonder it is said to sound very good. However you may need a hobby magnifier visor for the actual soldering, the pads are very small.

Get Franks fairly inexpensive voltage regulators too. Two of them, pre made.

Ward at Pilgham is going on vacation towards the end of the month, July 22nd until August 8th and claims he will not see emails.

Bud

charlesp210 · 16th July 2010, 09:11 PM

Well it sounds like building Jan's active is way too much soldering for me. I only like to a little bit of point-to-point, like soldering to power or switches. When I get to doing Jan's active, or something like that, I think I'll see about having someone else build the mod.

Meanwhile, what about the soldering required for the Oettle src/clock if I buy the "assembled" version. Does that require any soldering, and, if so, how much? I might need to have that one built for me as well. In particular, does it require any soldering to leads on surface mounted chips?

13th June 2010, 02:47 PM	#2753
VT67 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Belgium	@oettle I just read through the instructions you sent me, which for I thank you by the way. In there you mention to temporarily remove C1,C6 and C7. Now is it possible you mean C1,C2 and C4 because these are the cap's that are in the direct area of IC1. Still haven't figured out what you mean by bending and flattening pins and inserting header pins, but that's for a later stage. First I'm going to remove everything from the main DSP board that I wont be needing anymore. I'll be back Regards __________________ VBITNGC Krell KSA-50 Krell KSA-100MkII

14th June 2010, 10:45 PM	#2755
BudP diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: upper left crust, united snakes	Thanks Jan. Communication has been achieved, monies sent etc. Bud __________________ "You and I and every other thing are a dependent arising, empty of any inherent reality" Tsong Ko Pa

15th July 2010, 11:51 PM	#2759
BudP diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: upper left crust, united snakes	Am in the middle of Jan's board right now. How are your ribbon cable skills? Other than the two 6 pin SMD chips for analog in, if you need it, everything else is straight forward and clear. Some notes: Put all resistors, called for in each step, in first. Then mount other components. Pre fit all of the components for the remote board before soldering. There is an interference fit problem with one of the tiny WIMA caps and one of the centipede chip headers you should be aware of. The stand offs that hold the remote board in place will need about another 0.030" in extra height to allow the board to be centered in the space available, or you MUST pull all components down very tight to the board. I just used a nylon spacer available from my local hardware store oddities bins. The main board is a delight, real ground planes, no wonder it is said to sound very good. However you may need a hobby magnifier visor for the actual soldering, the pads are very small. Get Franks fairly inexpensive voltage regulators too. Two of them, pre made. Ward at Pilgham is going on vacation towards the end of the month, July 22nd until August 8th and claims he will not see emails. Bud __________________ "You and I and every other thing are a dependent arising, empty of any inherent reality" Tsong Ko Pa

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

New To Site?	Need Help?
Register to Participate Search Privacy Statement Contact Us	Frequently Asked Questions Did you forget your password? Mark Forums Read


	Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving

15th July 2010, 09:46 PM	#2758
charlesp210 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Antonio, TX	Back from vacation, I'm ready to order 2496 mods now (finally!). It looks like the easiest first step is to get the Oettle src/clock mod fully assembled. I use AES/EBU input at rates from 44.1 to 96khz mainly (though 192k is sometimes available). I would prefer not to do much soldering, but especially I cannot do any SMD soldering...wouldn't even want to try. Isn't this just ribbon cable plug in? For output, I like pseudo balanced operation because I have combination of balanced and unbalanced components. I don't mind the full output level of the DCX, but could probably get by with 5V RMS if it can do that cleanly. No transformers please. I don't need level controls on output, but it looks like the best option for me (Jan's active) includes remote level control whether I need it or not. But I'm not clear about what kind of soldering skill that requires.

16th July 2010, 09:11 PM	#2760
charlesp210 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: San Antonio, TX	Well it sounds like building Jan's active is way too much soldering for me. I only like to a little bit of point-to-point, like soldering to power or switches. When I get to doing Jan's active, or something like that, I think I'll see about having someone else build the mod. Meanwhile, what about the soldering required for the Oettle src/clock if I buy the "assembled" version. Does that require any soldering, and, if so, how much? I might need to have that one built for me as well. In particular, does it require any soldering to leads on surface mounted chips?