Behringer DCX2496 digital X-over

Guys, check this out. Very cool. This is something we all wanted to have a long time. I2S in and out, between many other possibilities. And analog as well. They seems to be a start up, and product is an ideal experimenter board.
MiniDSP - Product Concept
As Doug mentions, the GEQ is worthless, and there is no SPDIF or AES input. We'll see how the 3 way Hypex xover looks when it finally appears, but I still haven't seen anything so far that betters the DCX in usefulness, or better results until you get up to the DEQX.
 
Im sure this is in here somewhere, but cant seem to find it. Which transformer price/performance is recommended for the dcx input to replace the analog input. My original in/out board is long gone and I am using passive output and digital in, but presently needing an analog in. The Lundahl are really pricey so kind of looking for a less expensive alternative for experimentation. Maybe fully transformer coupled later on.
thanks
 
Someone pointed that out to me recently, It is kind of cool (I could easily have incorporated it into my 4 channel amp). However, it just has a graphic equalizer with preset frequencies, as far as I can see, instead of individually configurable PEQ filters, Not as useful for bass management.

I think it has a good potential and like I said great for experimenting. Regarding the Eq. - if you read their forum many already requested that and they are working on it. It seems like a start up company that came with the cool product geared to DIY market. Any software features / upgrades they are issuing as a $ 10 plug in :p Parametric eq vs. graphic eq is just a matter of software, not hardware, so I think that will be an easy release.


As Doug mentions, the GEQ is worthless, and there is no SPDIF or AES input. We'll see how the 3 way Hypex xover looks when it finally appears, but I still haven't seen anything so far that betters the DCX in usefulness, or better results until you get up to the DEQX.

The fact that there is no S/PDIF or AES/EBU is actually very cool. Since it is all I2S that gives you chance to select and add whatever you would like to have, FW, USB, S/PDIF or AES/EBU, SRC or not... There are plenty available input receivers on the market, or you could use it from any audio card. And that is another thing they are planning to offer as well - S/PDIF and AES/EBU with SRC.

As I mentioned, this is a great experimenters board. DSP boards geared to DIY community are rare and that is complicated part since requires hardware and software. The rest is relatively easy and available. Add receiver part and output DACs of your choice and you have it all. You do not necessarily need to compare it to the Behringer, but if you would like to use different DACs, or try different DACs in your system this is way to do it.
I believe as the times go these guys will find their market, and with that add more features, boards...
 
Just installed new boards.

With RMAA I noticed that gain has actually increased a little. Measurement results are quite the same, I did not expect any improvement is these. Dynamic range increased a little due the increased gain. Clarity of the treble has increased based on the listening, sound is super accurate. My pre amp has also LM4562s as op-amps.

When I dropped the DCX's boards to the modder and had to listen to my set without DCX, I thought I could hear a slight improvement when DCX was removed. Now when I test the DCX on the signal path/bypassed I can not hear any change in the sound. Sound is very pure and it digs details in very pleasurable way, not sounding hard at all. Sound is very clear.

Hiss did not go away if DCX's gain is at 0. But when I drop the gain either in inputs or outputs, the hiss is reduced good beyond the stock DCX with reduced gain. In other words, reducing the gain with these new op amps reduces the the hiss to lower level than with stock op amps. Very good.

Downsides: the "thump", when powering up or turning off the DCX, is louder. Quite much louder. I think the box also heats up more, but this is only preliminary. I shall test the possible heating after I have changed the rest of the capasitors.

I did the measurements on both DCXs right after I installed the boards. Now I will change the capasitors in I/O board to finish the project and then I will measure again.

Will be back with some test results and final conclusions -->
 
Right. Input B went mute after I changed caps near inputs. I put 47µf 25V cerafines, capasitance is same as stock caps. I changed all but C9-C12 since cerafines wont fit in those places. I compared the two boards and it seems that there isn't missing any component. I tied to melt the solder of all new caps to see whether is was bad contact, it wasn't. So what could cause the muting? Could someone speculate where the cause might be?

What caps are related to Input B, I could try to change them, one might be faulty? ****!

I have a basic digital multimeter meter. How could I try to find out which cap/component is broken?
 
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Check you ribbon cable and connector. You might have lost connection right there. When you input the signal, what does your indicator shows - like there is a present signal, but no sound, or no lights and no sound. Check in the software if you accidentally muted signal on the B channel. Check polarity of the newly installed caps.
 
Check you ribbon cable and connector. You might have lost connection right there. When you input the signal, what does your indicator shows - like there is a present signal, but no sound, or no lights and no sound. Check in the software if you accidentally muted signal on the B channel. Check polarity of the newly installed caps.

According to signal lights there's no signal (no lights). A works normally (does have lights). If I switch the cable that went previoisly to A ans showed signal, to B = again no lights. Ribbons checked and polarity checked.
 
Did you check mute in software? If your mute is still off, than we could conclude that your signal is lost somewhere in the input board. Than apply any signal, ideally 1KHz from the signal generator, and than trace with scope probe, to see how far it goes from the input XLR. If you could trace it to the cap and not after that than your problem is right there. Use the schematic and follow the signal path in your tracing.
 
Is there any output at all? Can you run the auto-align and get any sound?
Can you use the digital input and get any sound or lights?

No, no output at all.

Yes, there is auto-aling pink noise coming from both channels. This is a good sign.

I also get lights lit by digital input to both A and B channel's input level indicator, if I insert the digital cable to A channel. If I insert it to B channel then both channels' indicator lights are mute.

I just took almost all caps out and checked that their legs dont short underneath the cap. It seems that one or two caps have lost the tin foil underneath, but I think this should not cause this.
 
I ment the tin foil on the other side of the board, to which the capasitor's leg is soldered to. I dropped the DCX to the same man that changed the op amps, he finds the problem for sure.

I tried to find the problem for whole yesterday, but by watching and comparing the two boards everythig seemed to be in order. I swapped the half muted I/O board inside the other working DCX to see determine wether the problem it is in the I/O board. And yep, it is.

I think I can have the DCX back later today or maybe tomorrow if he cannot find the problem right away.
 
Hello guys, this is my first post in this wonderful forum.
The same with you, I have the DCX2496. I had replaced the DAC from AK9393 to AK4396. The next step I'll improve the output stage and 6 channels volume control. For the volume contro, I found this http://www.dact.com/html/attenuators.html . I think that is a good way to realize the 6 channel volume control. How do you think? Fortunately, I found the local dealer in my country and I'll check the price as soon as possible.

Golden