A 'how to' for High Gloss Finishing

[Renron]

Shellac used to be used to glaze M&Ms....yeah not toxic at all. Still used in other foods.
Thanks for the GF 181 recommendation. ")
Ron

[zxgravediggerxz]

Ok finally finished the new lamp.

I used Zinnister BIN primer, shellack bases... rolled it and than sanded it down to 400 grit, than I sprayed Rustoleum Chienese Red Lacquer and this is what came out....


I did not use a clear coat..... I should have tho :/

The Lacquer did not seem to stick to the primer very well and i got a few nicks here and there and the paint cracked/peeled off around the edges (i had to repair it) but it was good enough for the first prototype.

You can see the paint nick near the knob (there is aslo nicks around the bulb bases but those are covered up.



















Lacquer paint is the way to go tho! I need a better lacquer primer and a clear coat next time.

FYI I used 1000 grit wet sandpaper for a quick surface treatment and than I finished it off with 200grit.

During polishing I did manage to thin the paint a little on the corners but I dabber a small cotton swab wrapped in paper towel with the paint and covered it up real nicely (u cant tell). But as I said I got pain chips around the bublb babses during installation... it seem that the paint did not stick very well to the basecoat so any hit/nick will chip the paint

Tips for next time.... get another primer... do clearcoat.

I used just over one spray paint can for this..... I should have used one but I sprayed the top portion twice because I sanded trough.

This laquer goes on really smooth btw! I would say.... no orange peel? If any it was minimal at best. You do have to lay down a thicker coat tho and there is some paint run off/paint gathering if you are not careful but it can be sanded easily.

I let the paint cure for about a week, but I think 3-4 days will be good

[sploo]

Nice finish!

You are giving yourself a really hard time with the square edges though. Unless you really don't like the look, try rounding all the 90 degree edges over with a small router bit on the second version - you'll find it's much more forgiving when you come to spray (and you're less likely to burn through with sandpaper).

BIN seems to be pretty benign when it comes to top coats, but I don't know if it'll react to the lacquer over time (sometimes you're lucky, sometimes you're not).

It all depends on the particular paint of course, but generally several thin coats are better than fewer thick coats. Seems to be better to leave for as long as possible (sometimes weeks) before sanding and polishing for most paints too (unless you're using some really 'nasty' 2-part automotive stuff).

[zxgravediggerxz]

Originally Posted by sploo

Nice finish!

You are giving yourself a really hard time with the square edges though. Unless you really don't like the look, try rounding all the 90 degree edges over with a small router bit on the second version - you'll find it's much more forgiving when you come to spray (and you're less likely to burn through with sandpaper).

BIN seems to be pretty benign when it comes to top coats, but I don't know if it'll react to the lacquer over time (sometimes you're lucky, sometimes you're not).

It all depends on the particular paint of course, but generally several thin coats are better than fewer thick coats. Seems to be better to leave for as long as possible (sometimes weeks) before sanding and polishing for most paints too (unless you're using some really 'nasty' 2-part automotive stuff).

Thanks!

It is not perfect but it would do for now... it is deffinately a scratch magnet this paint lol.

Maybe next time I'll use a different primer to see what works best because i really dont like the paint chipping like that. I went with a coutersink bit on the legs and it chipped the paint there too!!! But luckily that is covered up. I need to find a better primer for lacquer :/

I had to spray the edges themselves a bunch of times, and that prevents burn trough with the sand paper. You just need to round them just a bit with the sandpaper. I went over maybe 5 or six sprays on the edges alone... sanding was good, had to be careful a little but it burned trough in a couple of spots during polishing tho but it was a hairline and i covered it really good.

Question.... if i clear coat.... I sand until there is no orange peel with 2000grit and than clear coat or i polish before i clear coat? (i am pretty sure I just sand and clear coat but there might be something I'm missing)


Yes I would have done a roundover but I liked the look better. Next time I will roundover tho.

Tnx

[jerryo]

To anyone doing this sort of finishing you must understand that going as far as 2000 grade before a top coat is is completely wrong. This grade is only to used in a finishing process.
Before a finish coat you need to flatten off the prior coat to remove any irregularities and this can normally be achieved with 240/320/400 grits, no finer than that otherwise you will not allow the finish coat to "key" to the surface. Even 400 grit is going too far.

[Renron]

Lacquer is too soft for a top coat. It also has a tendency to craze/crack as it ages.
Jerryo is correct. Good post.
No ZX, don't topcoat it.
Ron

[dirkwright]

Originally Posted by Renron

Shellac used to be used to glaze M&Ms....yeah not toxic at all. Still used in other foods.
Thanks for the GF 181 recommendation. ")
Ron

Well, there's a food grade shellac that used to coat prescription medicine and other things like that. I don't think ordinary shellac is edible...

[Renron]

LOL, wasn't suggesting someone actually eat it, just it's past uses.
Ron

[John L]

Sorry to keep the discussion a tiny bit off topic, but I have spent a lot of time boning up on shellac. And today, the overwhelming majority of shellac is still used in the food industry. In truth, its a miracle product, which can be used to keep certain foods from becoming waterlogged.

Under normal circumstances I can't think of a more versatile finish. It is not as hard as other finishes, but it is so easy to repair, is great looking, and produces absolutely no unhealthy hazards to the environment.

Its something that should be used more IMO.

[dirkwright]

Originally Posted by John L

Sorry to keep the discussion a tiny bit off topic, but I have spent a lot of time boning up on shellac. And today, the overwhelming majority of shellac is still used in the food industry. In truth, its a miracle product, which can be used to keep certain foods from becoming waterlogged.

Under normal circumstances I can't think of a more versatile finish. It is not as hard as other finishes, but it is so easy to repair, is great looking, and produces absolutely no unhealthy hazards to the environment.

Its something that should be used more IMO.

I have used a lot of shellac over the years. All of the interior wood work in my house, including doors, trim and floors, is shellac. That's a lot of shellac!

The solvent is booze...