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MJL21193 21st February 2010 08:51 PM

Speaker Testing Jig Assembly Thread
 
3 Attachment(s)
Here are detailed instructions for assembly of the speaker testing jig designed HERE.
Please let me finish posting all of the instructions before you contribute or ask a question.

First step is to un-pack the parts. The kit comes with all of the parts inside the enclosure so you will need to loosen the screws to open it. It is not necessary to completely remove the screws. Be careful when removing the cover not to force it and damage either the enclosure or the front panel. The slots that the front and back panel sit in leave very little wood at the edge and this is easily broken. Should you decide to paint or otherwise finish the box, now is the time to do it.

This pic shows the parts and some of the tools needed to assemble the kit:

Attachment 159158

The "X" on each side of the case show where they line up, just make sure the x on each half are together before screwing the case together again (unfortunately, I didn't do this on the first lot that went out).
Soldering iron, cutters, pliers, solder and I like to use flux on all the pads before I solder them as it makes for a trouble free joint.
A file can be helpful to "fine tune" something but I didn't find I needed it at all here.

Next sort out the resistors and the diodes:

Attachment 159159

The resistors are not marked and it is best to measure them with a multimeter anyway before installing them. The diodes are fairly easy, the larger ones are rectifiers and the smaller ones are zeners. Be careful of the polarity when you are putting them in.

After you have the resistors and diodes in, the board will look like this:

Attachment 159160

Next go ahead and put in the ceramic caps (2) and the smaller electrolytics.

MJL21193 21st February 2010 09:08 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I made a couple of mistakes on these boards. The first is that the holes for the mini jacks are a bit big but it is only an issue on the middle one (it uses the internal switch of the jack). As shown in the pic it needs special attention to solder this one:

Attachment 159164

Before the boards went out, I scraped some of the soldermask off of the trace to provide some pad area for soldering. Make sure that solder bridges the trace on both sides of the pin. It can be a bit tricky but is doable.
Install the rest of the jacks, including the power jack.

Next you will need some silicone or other type of adhesive to hold the big cap in place:

Attachment 159165

Bend the leads on the cap (careful to watch polarity) and put some adhesive on the side that faces down. Solder in the cap and take a break while the adhesive cures.

Once that is dry move to the chipamp. Here we see my second mistake: the chipamp needs a washer between it and the back plate. A small aluminum washer (not supplied) would be best but since the amp doesn't put out much power, it never get much more than warm so any kind of metal washer will do. Heatsink compound is not needed here:

Attachment 159166

The back panel is predrilled for the bolt (not supplied) and notched for the power jack. These should line up well but if not, adjust the notch with a metal file.

MJL21193 21st February 2010 09:17 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Next mount the front panel:

Attachment 159170

Use the ring nuts for the mini jacks to hold it in place. This is where you want to put in the power on LED.

Attachment 159171

Get it in place and solder it, making sure you have the correct polarity.

Next do a "dry fit" in the enclosure to make sure everything is good:

Attachment 159172

MJL21193 21st February 2010 09:25 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Next put the banana jacks in the front panel and wire them up:

Attachment 159174

I didn't mark the polarity on the board for these but common is toward the rear. BP 1,2 goes to banana jacks marked "Amp Out To Speaker" while BP 3,4 goes to "Impedance Measure".

Supplied in the kit is a rubber bumper that needs to go on the bottom of the enclosure, under the power jack. It supports the board in this area:

Attachment 159175

Put the cover on and check the fit. It should go on easily and close tightly at the seams:

Attachment 159176

MJL21193 21st February 2010 09:35 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Next is to double check your work, look for solder bridges and loose leads. Check the polarity on all of the components again.
It is time to try it. Connect a suitable AC power adapter (12-24VAC, 1 amp) and turn it on. On first turning it on, it will have some DC at the output but this drops after a few seconds (with a speaker connected, it will give a little "pop" and hum for a few second. This hum is normal and will cease - output to the speaker at that time should be dead silent).

Once you have verified that it's not on fire (:D) connect it to your soundcard and give it a test drive:

Attachment 159180

It is now ready for action!
:)

domtw 23rd February 2010 01:06 AM

Hello,
It might be nice to add a simple user guide presenting the possible use (especially for impedance calibration).
Which software can be used and so on...

MJL21193 23rd February 2010 02:30 AM

Hi,
I will start up a thread on that subject once a few of these have been assembled.
:)

Ed LaFontaine 25th February 2010 11:00 PM

John,,

I find discrepancies between the board & schematic. Could you post the most current? Can you post a bom?

For example: R10 is 2.7K or 6.8K?

Thanks

MJL21193 25th February 2010 11:00 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here is the BOM. I didn't think it was of much use as the PCB has all of the values printed on it.

Attachment 159860

Updated Schematic:

Attachment 159864

MJL21193 25th February 2010 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed LaFontaine (Post 2099257)
For example: R10 is 2.7K or 6.8K?

Hi Ed,

I did make some minor changes without updating the schematic but the correct values are printed on the board.

R13 on the BOM is listed as 10ohms, it is three 30ohm resistors in parallel.


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