I am looking to enter into the Class D (or Class T, whichever the case may be) realm... sound quality concerns me most. How does this amp compare to some others you've had experience with? Is it worth the time and effort to get it running "right"? Or should I just go out and buy an evaluation board and mess around with that?
needtubes,
Not being an engineer, I cant tell you if an eval board could offer much more in the way of sound quality or not. The SI board seems to be a minimalist design for the TA2024 and doesnt look like much but cap swapping is possible (other than the type of things Ive done) I can say that for $25 or so, you will get an extrodinary good amp value wise. Everyone that has heard mine has been shocked at the sound.
This amp should really be considered a 5 watter since the sound changes for the worst when heading toward double digit output. But at a few watts, the overall clarity is outstanding with a good soundstage.
My opinion is to let the engineers out there sort it out and in time, Im sure the sound will be improved. But for $25..... throw it away if you dont like it. But you will.
This weekend its getting the once over by my tube expert buddy. Hes had probably twenty over the years and will be a great judge of the sound. Horns of course, will be used.
I will report back.
amt
Not being an engineer, I cant tell you if an eval board could offer much more in the way of sound quality or not. The SI board seems to be a minimalist design for the TA2024 and doesnt look like much but cap swapping is possible (other than the type of things Ive done) I can say that for $25 or so, you will get an extrodinary good amp value wise. Everyone that has heard mine has been shocked at the sound.
This amp should really be considered a 5 watter since the sound changes for the worst when heading toward double digit output. But at a few watts, the overall clarity is outstanding with a good soundstage.
My opinion is to let the engineers out there sort it out and in time, Im sure the sound will be improved. But for $25..... throw it away if you dont like it. But you will.
This weekend its getting the once over by my tube expert buddy. Hes had probably twenty over the years and will be a great judge of the sound. Horns of course, will be used.
I will report back.
amt
Anyone try conecting the input directly to the input pin on the chip.
I used a decent input cap and feedback resistors and got a much nicer sound out of the little guy. (replacing the conectors and pot goes without saying)
I'd also like to replace the output inductors with something better. It needs a 10uH 25volt or so, but I cant find anything worth replacing it with.
I used a decent input cap and feedback resistors and got a much nicer sound out of the little guy. (replacing the conectors and pot goes without saying)
I'd also like to replace the output inductors with something better. It needs a 10uH 25volt or so, but I cant find anything worth replacing it with.
If you check out the datacheet for the TA2024, check pages 5 and 6. They show the application/connections on page 5. Page 6 says that the cap across the pins (.01uF) is a "Differential output capacitor. Differential noise decoupling for reduction of conducted emissions. Must be located near chassis exit point for maximum effectiveness."
) I'm going to build my own and see how it goes. I just need some decent 10uh 1 amp inductors till I can get started thogh.
mhelin said:
So your saying an amp per speaker??
I asked this same question a couple months ago ( Here ), and no one really gave me a straight answer.
I didn't know if 5 watts per driver was different that just 5 watts powering the whole thing, asumming the ohms are the same (IE individual amps powering 24 8 ohm drivers, versus one amp powering 24 drivers that all add up to 8 ohms).
I know stability wise it would be better, but as far as output I don't know. My logic, being that sinking 5 wattts each into 2 drivers, would require a single amp to create 10 watts...but I don't know
amt said:
amt,
Beautiful work! You have inspired me to give this "repackaging" a try!
I have no experience with SMD and your post about ruining the components with the iron makes me nervous, so I'm tempted to simply re-use the existing wires wherever possible.
I got an aluminum case and a couple of switches at Frye's. I'm planning use a toggle switch to allow two sources. I still have to pick up some binding posts, the only ones I have in my bin are duals that won't look "right" with the case I chose.
If it works I'll post pics here. If it doesn't it will at least be a learning experience!
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