I wouldnt go for the Sure stuff but for a 2.1 TPA3251/TPA3255 board from 3e-Audio
TPA3251 2x100W + 1x200W 3Ch Class D Audio Amplifier | eBay (currently sold out)
together with one of these stepup modules:
1200W 20A DC Converter Boost Car Step-up Power Supply Module 8-60V to 12-83V I4S 192090099832 | eBay
These modules do work nicely, i have used them for over a year now.
You may also consider getting yourself a TPA3251/TPA3255 EVM directly from Texas Instruments.
TPA3251 2x100W + 1x200W 3Ch Class D Audio Amplifier | eBay (currently sold out)
together with one of these stepup modules:
1200W 20A DC Converter Boost Car Step-up Power Supply Module 8-60V to 12-83V I4S 192090099832 | eBay
These modules do work nicely, i have used them for over a year now.
You may also consider getting yourself a TPA3251/TPA3255 EVM directly from Texas Instruments.
Will that module really be enough to drive the system to its limit? The heatsink looks kinda small, and it's supposed to run at maximum power without pause. I am even considering upgrading the subwoofer to something larger in the future.
Do you have a recommendation for something more powerful? I think I would rather have it oversized for future proofing and better thermals.
Do you have a recommendation for something more powerful? I think I would rather have it oversized for future proofing and better thermals.
If you will play 600Wrms pure sinewave all the time, then it will most likely overheat. If you consider typical crest factors for music it will not.
Btw. 600Wrms is 600Wh.. I don't know what kind of battery you have but I actually use a 180Wh 36V (3x12V 5Ah) setup which plays about 5 hours at deaf full power at the same converter.. (Having a 2.1 system powered by TPA3255) (15" bass + 2x8" mids + 2x 1.5" tweeter horn - tuned for 103dB/1W)
It is perfectly purpose made to save space and weight.
You can get the se converter specified for 30/40A which has a fan on the heatsink and a doubled inductor core.)
Btw. The Sub you linked for upgrade is 8R. Max power is limited just by that, so with 50V bridge voltage, maximum you get is (50V*0.707)^2/8R = 156Wrms, regardless of chassis size.
Btw. 600Wrms is 600Wh.. I don't know what kind of battery you have but I actually use a 180Wh 36V (3x12V 5Ah) setup which plays about 5 hours at deaf full power at the same converter.. (Having a 2.1 system powered by TPA3255) (15" bass + 2x8" mids + 2x 1.5" tweeter horn - tuned for 103dB/1W)
It is perfectly purpose made to save space and weight.
You can get the se converter specified for 30/40A which has a fan on the heatsink and a doubled inductor core.)
Btw. The Sub you linked for upgrade is 8R. Max power is limited just by that, so with 50V bridge voltage, maximum you get is (50V*0.707)^2/8R = 156Wrms, regardless of chassis size.
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Thanks for the clarification, I guess it still amazes me how much power and efficiency you can get out of such a small package... that and also analog electronics is not my strong suit
I've found the converter with fan and double inductor core you were talking about, price is also really good. This will be the one that I get.
Is there a specific reason for the amplifier module you linked? It seems expensive compared to other models.
I've found this one based on TPA3255, which is 2.1 and has crossover and bass/treble/volume controls.
Any opinions on that board?
btw. I'm using a 52Ah 12V Lead Acid Battery, that's simultaneously being charged by 2x 185W PV panels connected to a Victron Energy MPPT 100 | 50 charge controller. With the old amp I can run this indefinitely on medium sun and from morning til evening on a full charge with very cloudy weather.
I've found the converter with fan and double inductor core you were talking about, price is also really good. This will be the one that I get.
Is there a specific reason for the amplifier module you linked? It seems expensive compared to other models.
I've found this one based on TPA3255, which is 2.1 and has crossover and bass/treble/volume controls.
Any opinions on that board?
btw. I'm using a 52Ah 12V Lead Acid Battery, that's simultaneously being charged by 2x 185W PV panels connected to a Victron Energy MPPT 100 | 50 charge controller. With the old amp I can run this indefinitely on medium sun and from morning til evening on a full charge with very cloudy weather.
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The 3e-Audio boards are known to be good, both build and quality wise. They show measurement plots on their website, decent performance.
The board you linked is a real bargain but from unknown quality (build and soundwise). It doesn't look too bad on the first view but all these boards with tone control usually lack some performance and/or are noisy or suspicious to EMI. (Thats what i've hear from all the stories here)
Maybe i should get one out of curiosity.
I wonder if the top right output inductor couple HF switching noise right into the input coupling caps next to it.
I've looked into TPA32XX and 3e-audio, from what I read here and on your website I really start to like them. I looks like I might as well get everything from 3e.
Either the 2.1 TPA3251 board or Stereo + Mono TPA3255.
Originally I wanted to build a simple, passive x-Over. But I might as well get the matching DSP for 40 bucks from 3e.
Put the whole thing into a 1 or 2U 19 inch housing together with 12V booster, 230V switchmode and connectors (balanced, unbalanced, digital, powerCON and speakON) and I have a super universal 2.1 amp with DSP
Any recommendations for robust, locking 12V connectors for panel mounting?
Either the 2.1 TPA3251 board or Stereo + Mono TPA3255.
Originally I wanted to build a simple, passive x-Over. But I might as well get the matching DSP for 40 bucks from 3e.
Put the whole thing into a 1 or 2U 19 inch housing together with 12V booster, 230V switchmode and connectors (balanced, unbalanced, digital, powerCON and speakON) and I have a super universal 2.1 amp with DSP
Any recommendations for robust, locking 12V connectors for panel mounting?
@Philipp F
You are perfectly right, not to use a passive x-over. Passive becomes very heavy and even more expensive. Before you buy the ADAU1701 DSP please get some information about it. It does not have an easy to understand user interface, to program it on the fly. You have to use a special programmer, a mighty program application, exact procedures etc. Maybe a simple car audio sub woofer x-over would be more conveniant and no disadvantage sound wise.
It is a good idea to stay away from all cheap Alibaba / eBay 2.1 amp combinations on one board. The filters are simply constructed from people that had no clue how to do it. Allmost all have no high pass for your satellites.
You are perfectly right, not to use a passive x-over. Passive becomes very heavy and even more expensive. Before you buy the ADAU1701 DSP please get some information about it. It does not have an easy to understand user interface, to program it on the fly. You have to use a special programmer, a mighty program application, exact procedures etc. Maybe a simple car audio sub woofer x-over would be more conveniant and no disadvantage sound wise.
It is a good idea to stay away from all cheap Alibaba / eBay 2.1 amp combinations on one board. The filters are simply constructed from people that had no clue how to do it. Allmost all have no high pass for your satellites.
I'm far more comfortable with digital/software/firmware and MCU/FPGAs than analog and AC/RF stuff as I am a software developer by trade.
Since I wanted to play around with DSPs for a long time I might as well go for it
I found SigmaStudio to look fairly user friendly. I'm no expert on DSPs but the graphical flow UI makes it somewhat understandable (despite its crappy execution on a programmers standpoint), I just have to read up on where to put what in the signal path I guess.
I'm not so sure, it would be for the connection between the amps+dsp and the battery. So enough current to power the 2x TPA3255 modules via the boost converter. With enough capacitance I don't imagine the continuous current for the whole thing will be that high?
Right now I'm using Neutriks powerCON for 12V since only me is using the setup, but with the new amp I would like 230V and 12V capability and therefore use powerCON for 230V and something else for 12V.
But in the end I might just go IEC C13/C14 for 230V and powerCON for 12V. I just have to watch out so nobody plugs 230V into the powerCON haha...
Capacitance doesn't relate to any constant current demand. It just smoothen out the averages current peaks at the point of load but increases the dI/dt (recharge current peaks) at the source and dampens the supplies response regulation.
I wouldn't recommend PowerCon just the because the general use for mains voltage.
Have a look for SD20 or SP20 connectors, they're IP68 rated and do 25A average current:
SD20-2 20mm 2P Flanged Waterproof Aviation Cable Connector Socket AC 250V/25A | eBay
I wouldn't recommend PowerCon just the because the general use for mains voltage.
Have a look for SD20 or SP20 connectors, they're IP68 rated and do 25A average current:
SD20-2 20mm 2P Flanged Waterproof Aviation Cable Connector Socket AC 250V/25A | eBay
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Uhm, sorry but the rating is for the maximum current, not the average and they were quite generous at the rating. I haven't found the exact same datasheet but similar types state the 25A are only the rating if heating up (because of the contact resistance) to 50°C is allowed. Standard rating (30°) is between 10 and 15A, depending on the connector type/how many pins are used (2/3).
The choice is still better than powercon because it's can result in a lot more damage and harm to plug in mains voltage instead.
The choice is still better than powercon because it's can result in a lot more damage and harm to plug in mains voltage instead.
I've been looking at these connectors, I wanted to go for "one way" connections so I can avoid energized open contacts.
They claim to be 20A, maybe I will just go for 4 pin and double with this cable for extra current handling.
They claim to be 20A, maybe I will just go for 4 pin and double with this cable for extra current handling.
Good decision. The plug even got a rubber cap to prevent water from getting in.
The link to the connectors mentiones its rating applies at AWG 12, which translates to 3,31mm², the 2,5mm² cable should be fine though since you're using 4 instead of 2 connectors/wires.
These are really god quality and you dont have to waitOriginally Posted by [B said:Philipp F[/B]
I've been looking at these connectors, I wanted to go for "one way" connections so I can avoid energized open contacts.
They claim to be 20A, maybe I will just go for 4 pin and double with this cable for extra current handling.
Link to corresponding DS please, thank you.
Considering a typical 0805 SMD resistor, these are rated mostly at 0.125W power dissipation. Having a contact resistance of <=1mOhm (lets take 1mOhm in account for easy math), at 10A the PD is about 0.1W per contact. Okay cool but take also into account that the conductors soldered to the contact slugs act as very good heat sinks as well. The 0805 resistors power dissipation capability is much lower.
These are pretty much the same (internally) as those plastic ones i posted, just with a different locking mechanism. Due to the one-side locking i suppose them no to be that watertight and vibration proof than the plastic ones which got screw locking.
Btw. from my old watchlist their are also these, which i never tested:
XHP20 2Pin-12Pin Power Industrial Electrical Connector,RV Solar Port Connector | eBay
WEIPU SF12 2Pin~9Pin Waterproof Connector Plug Socket, Aviation Cable Connector | eBay
"Weipu" as a brand is also available from Conrad.
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How does it sound if I'd say: Look them up yourself please, thank you. Hm?
Well, here you are:
Yes, they are. And they got a bit more realistic rating of 20A instead of the inflated rating of 25A. But they are 4-pin and not 3 or 2. More pins means more diameter if used parallel. Which translates to higher effective current rating. I didn't think I'd have to explain that, you know that very well yourself. Why are you mad and petty?
