As you already seem to know, you limit the output power by choosing the supply voltage.
Another issue DIYs often have is too much gain in their signal path. That shows by only having to turn the volume potentiometer up a little before having a loud sound level. Use a simple resistive voltage divider before the power amplifier (I use 10K/1K) or reduce the gain in the pre-amp or power-amp (if possible - stability considerations).
Another issue DIYs often have is too much gain in their signal path. That shows by only having to turn the volume potentiometer up a little before having a loud sound level. Use a simple resistive voltage divider before the power amplifier (I use 10K/1K) or reduce the gain in the pre-amp or power-amp (if possible - stability considerations).
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I do not have that amplifier. My advise is based on general amplifier knowledge.
Sound quality is not related to output power. You choose an amplifier by first considering how much power you need. That is only a rough estimation as you can use a more powerful amplifier on speakers that are rated for less power or an amplifier with less power than the speakers. You can ruin speakers with a less powerful amplifier if you run the amplifier into hard distortion.
When you have estimated the amplifier power, you look for the amplifier with the best sound. For your small apartment, 50-100W should be more than enough. Especially youth tend to overestimate the need for power. For normal listening you typically use a couple of Watts.
In principle you can use the 2x400W board with your present speakers as long as you do not turn the volume up to really loud sound volumes. But unless the sound of that particular 2x400W board is unique, you may have the same SQ or even better with a less powerful amplifier.
It is a bit like discussing which car is the most comfortable in use with a (respected) speed limit of 80mph. A car that can do 140mph may not be more comfortable than a car that can do only 100mph. Electronic wear is not like mechanical wear such that you have a life-time benefit from a more powerful amplifier, on the contrary more (potential) power often means more heating and shorter life-time.
Sound quality is not related to output power. You choose an amplifier by first considering how much power you need. That is only a rough estimation as you can use a more powerful amplifier on speakers that are rated for less power or an amplifier with less power than the speakers. You can ruin speakers with a less powerful amplifier if you run the amplifier into hard distortion.
When you have estimated the amplifier power, you look for the amplifier with the best sound. For your small apartment, 50-100W should be more than enough. Especially youth tend to overestimate the need for power. For normal listening you typically use a couple of Watts.
In principle you can use the 2x400W board with your present speakers as long as you do not turn the volume up to really loud sound volumes. But unless the sound of that particular 2x400W board is unique, you may have the same SQ or even better with a less powerful amplifier.
It is a bit like discussing which car is the most comfortable in use with a (respected) speed limit of 80mph. A car that can do 140mph may not be more comfortable than a car that can do only 100mph. Electronic wear is not like mechanical wear such that you have a life-time benefit from a more powerful amplifier, on the contrary more (potential) power often means more heating and shorter life-time.
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hi, the Sure 2x100w has the chips STA508 or 510, this is the previous generation of 2x400w (STA516b double BTL, Gremlin). I compared the Gremlin with a voltage at 40vdc and 27vdc, there is no difference in sound quality, just less powerful. Your 50w speakers are sufficient with the 2x400w. Because it is the first watts that are important. I tried with 150w hps, and then with 40w bookshelf and no problem, we can put pretty loud, anyway we hear when the hps are at the limit, and it is often over a normal listening in a room of average size. So yes I recommend the 2X400w in front of the 2X100w.
Just a very private oppinion:
If you consider building such an amp from the expensive Sure/Wondom stuff, stop for a second and compare the prices of some PA amps, using the same incrediends.
For example, you get a well manufactured NX amp from Behringer, with 3 years of warantee, for as much as an Sure setup stereo amp board with power supply.
If you add a DSP to the NX amp ("D" at the end) you can not get this from Wondom at any cost, as their DSP have an extremly complicated way of getting programmed. You got to change jumpers and do all kind of crazy stuff. Ridiculos complicated. The NX1000D is plain USB, Plug&Pla, logical interface and dead reliable.
With the Wondom parts you don´t have a case, connectors, no gurantee for noise free operation and no safety approval.
Sure/Wondom parts look good, because of the black optical design. There circuits are in no way better designed than some no name D-amps and SMPS that cost only a fraction. They have a superior marketing and give all kind of unrealistic claim about their quality, design, competence and knowledge, but in reality are in no way better than any other cheapo China stuff. There customer services are close to non existing and the written instructions are without any valuable information. Same with Connex, by the way.
So, if you like to buy brands, go with them, but be aware of what you might get for what you pay.
Just a private oppinion.
If you consider building such an amp from the expensive Sure/Wondom stuff, stop for a second and compare the prices of some PA amps, using the same incrediends.
For example, you get a well manufactured NX amp from Behringer, with 3 years of warantee, for as much as an Sure setup stereo amp board with power supply.
If you add a DSP to the NX amp ("D" at the end) you can not get this from Wondom at any cost, as their DSP have an extremly complicated way of getting programmed. You got to change jumpers and do all kind of crazy stuff. Ridiculos complicated. The NX1000D is plain USB, Plug&Pla, logical interface and dead reliable.
With the Wondom parts you don´t have a case, connectors, no gurantee for noise free operation and no safety approval.
Sure/Wondom parts look good, because of the black optical design. There circuits are in no way better designed than some no name D-amps and SMPS that cost only a fraction. They have a superior marketing and give all kind of unrealistic claim about their quality, design, competence and knowledge, but in reality are in no way better than any other cheapo China stuff. There customer services are close to non existing and the written instructions are without any valuable information. Same with Connex, by the way.
So, if you like to buy brands, go with them, but be aware of what you might get for what you pay.
Just a private oppinion.
Hello Pascal,
I used this amplifier for 2 years. I was very satisfied. I had a generic SMPS 36vdc Chinese. I put capacitors Obbligato Cooper. you can buy Obbligato silver, it's almost the same.
Now I use a 3e-audio TPA3251, and I prefer this amplifier (stock) because I find the sound more organic.
Denis
I´m not surprised you prefer 3e-audio to Sure for sound. As far as I have seen, they design circuits very well. They belong to the better products on the market. Not fancy looking copys of mediocre designs, stolen from someone who also had no clue about cirquit design and painted in black and gold...
.Really valuable points Turbowatch2 ,worth serious consideration,thank you.
They are ready to sale own mother as a sex slave for 300 euro and will do in a blink of the eye with out a shame nor guilty.
Such things just haven't happen 20-15 years ago it was unthinkable
Today is just fine,,
In such condition we are living in present days. Even Europeans have learned such tactics....we can take as an example lautsprechershop.de.or Anaview.
They are ready to sale own mother as a sex slave for 300 euro and will do in a blink of the eye with out a shame nor guilty.
Such things just haven't happen 20-15 years ago it was unthinkable
Today is just fine,,
Hi,
If we go back to the subject of Sure 2X400w AA-AB32313.
I had two Sure Audio amplifiers, and I never had a problem, and the explanations of the PDF document is very explicit.
By cons half of Chinese PCB Ebay have not always worked well. I agree that we must be wary, but the Gremlin (AA-AB32313) for the price is almost unbeatable, as long as we add good quality MKP capacitors at the entrance and a good power supply.
If we go back to the subject of Sure 2X400w AA-AB32313.
I had two Sure Audio amplifiers, and I never had a problem, and the explanations of the PDF document is very explicit.
By cons half of Chinese PCB Ebay have not always worked well. I agree that we must be wary, but the Gremlin (AA-AB32313) for the price is almost unbeatable, as long as we add good quality MKP capacitors at the entrance and a good power supply.
On this amp I did not compare with a linear power supply. But according to my readings, a quality linear power supply gives this a better sound and a very solid bass. In my case I used it especially in bi-amplification mode. On my TPA3116, I had a SMPS Meanweal 24v 200w, while on the 2 * 400w, as I wrote above, it was a generic SMPS of 36v 400w. I did not test at 48v because I had enough power. so in addition to the capacitors at the input MKP, I added capacitors on the DC, Nichicon fine gold, which provides a better bass and dynamic. In short I recommend this amplifier.
Now in the bass on my system, I have a Sure IRS2092 2x250w amplifier, powered with a linear , and no problem with this product.
Now in the bass on my system, I have a Sure IRS2092 2x250w amplifier, powered with a linear , and no problem with this product.
At the moment building 4x AA-AB32313 amp rack for active speakers in quite slow paste .... waiting for capacitors to arrive,
In a photo platform beside fan it is a place for it.
Did you change those capacitors like in my drawing ?
It is not too late for me to do it. What values for Nichicon capacitors ?
.... waiting for capacitors to arrive, In a photo platform beside fan it is a place for it.
Did you change those capacitors like in my drawing ?
It is not too late for me to do it. What values for Nichicon capacitors ?
Attachments
@gin8330
I did not change anything, just add 2 capacitors on each side of the pcb.
@chermann
you're right, I did not check the ESR because they are 50v capacitors that I had on hand for another project. You know better than me, if you have suggestions, it will be appreciated by all.
@pgerin
it's time to buy, 3e-audio (on Ebay) handed over new stock for sale, it's going down fast. This is the amplifier that I use every day on my main stereo and I am very satisfied, very musical, accurate without being analytical, just enough.
I did not change anything, just add 2 capacitors on each side of the pcb.
@chermann
you're right, I did not check the ESR because they are 50v capacitors that I had on hand for another project. You know better than me, if you have suggestions, it will be appreciated by all.
@pgerin
it's time to buy, 3e-audio (on Ebay) handed over new stock for sale, it's going down fast. This is the amplifier that I use every day on my main stereo and I am very satisfied, very musical, accurate without being analytical, just enough.
here...why doctor recommend this cap + the post before( i learned by doc...what to use at my TPA3255 moddings)
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/cla...iy-discussion-design-etc-121.html#post5777839
chris
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/cla...iy-discussion-design-etc-121.html#post5777839
chris
Hey, I was thinking about replacing the cheap AB 12V car amp (Magnat Edition Four) of my mobile/festival PA setup with more efficient and powerful class D modules.
Here are some pictures: MTH-30 Tapped Horn Subwoofer - Album on Imgur
My original plan was building my own boost converter from sg3525 or something and using some cheap Aliexpress class D modules.
But now that I have found Sure Electronics, it looks like I might get everything In need from them.
Here is what i like to power:
Tops
Subwoofer chassis in a tapped horn box
I am not very experienced at judging how much "real" power I actually need.
Can someone recommend a fitting combination of amps and boost converters from Sure?
Here are some pictures: MTH-30 Tapped Horn Subwoofer - Album on Imgur
My original plan was building my own boost converter from sg3525 or something and using some cheap Aliexpress class D modules.
But now that I have found Sure Electronics, it looks like I might get everything In need from them.
Here is what i like to power:
Tops
Subwoofer chassis in a tapped horn box
I am not very experienced at judging how much "real" power I actually need.
Can someone recommend a fitting combination of amps and boost converters from Sure?