This thread is a spinoff from the IRS2092 200W amp thread as there seems to be just as much interest in this cost effective SMPS that enables low cost IRS2902 high power amps to work.
Underside:
The Abletec ALP0400 power supply is an open frame SMPS that has pretty advanced features and capability unmatched (that I am aware of) by any other PS in the $20 price point.
Specs here:
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/129-147-parts-express-specifications.pdf
In short, it can power a pair of 200 watt IRS2092 mono blocks and be able to provide up to 900 watts peak load (<10ms).
It is available from eBay and Parts Express as a "buyout" item:
Abletec 900 Watt Peak Class D Audio Amplifier Power Supply 53V DC UL Cul | eBay
https://www.parts-express.com/ablet...-16a--56v-1a--129-147?AID=1457483&PID=7598510
Initially, some people thought these supplies were defective since they could not produce the rated power levels. Charlie Laub pointed out to us that the secondary voltage outs need a small but finite load. Something like a 1 watt 150ohm resistor placed at the secondary voltage outputs will allow the rest of the amp to be stable.
Minimum required current draw to be stable:
It has been confirmed by several members that this fix solves the stability issues and this supply works like a champ.
It truly is an enabling technology for folks interested in low cost higher power IRS2092 type dual rail amps, or any other dual rail amp requiring smooth +/-53volts.
Header connector jacks are available here:
6-PIN CONNECTOR W/HEADER, 0.156" | All Electronics Corp.
Please share your experiences with this amp.
Here is my test case (temporary setup for testing only - don't flame me for violating safety practices here):
What you see here is a 200w x 2 class D IRS2092 power amp for $60 in parts (less now since the 2092's are less than $20).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Underside:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The Abletec ALP0400 power supply is an open frame SMPS that has pretty advanced features and capability unmatched (that I am aware of) by any other PS in the $20 price point.
Specs here:
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/129-147-parts-express-specifications.pdf
In short, it can power a pair of 200 watt IRS2092 mono blocks and be able to provide up to 900 watts peak load (<10ms).
It is available from eBay and Parts Express as a "buyout" item:
Abletec 900 Watt Peak Class D Audio Amplifier Power Supply 53V DC UL Cul | eBay
https://www.parts-express.com/ablet...-16a--56v-1a--129-147?AID=1457483&PID=7598510
Initially, some people thought these supplies were defective since they could not produce the rated power levels. Charlie Laub pointed out to us that the secondary voltage outs need a small but finite load. Something like a 1 watt 150ohm resistor placed at the secondary voltage outputs will allow the rest of the amp to be stable.
Minimum required current draw to be stable:
It has been confirmed by several members that this fix solves the stability issues and this supply works like a champ.
It truly is an enabling technology for folks interested in low cost higher power IRS2092 type dual rail amps, or any other dual rail amp requiring smooth +/-53volts.
Header connector jacks are available here:
6-PIN CONNECTOR W/HEADER, 0.156" | All Electronics Corp.
Please share your experiences with this amp.
Here is my test case (temporary setup for testing only - don't flame me for violating safety practices here):
What you see here is a 200w x 2 class D IRS2092 power amp for $60 in parts (less now since the 2092's are less than $20).
Last edited:
Thanks for spinning off a dedicated thread for this. I got my abletec's in recently, this is motivation to get them hooked up to the 2092's I have as well. I'm hoping they'll be a much better solution than the noisy as hell cheap crown xls402 I got off craigslist.
I'm planning on using them to drive the bass horns in my 4 way horn system.
I'm planning on using them to drive the bass horns in my 4 way horn system.
So in my reading it appears that this cable is a remote on/off.
https://goo.gl/photos/4E7B4J4q9Tudh55k6
https://goo.gl/photos/4E7B4J4q9Tudh55k6
Do you know which leads are for the remote shutdown? I would like to see if there is a graceful off / on instead of hard power kill.
Data sheet is at http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/129-147-parts-express-specifications.pdf
Don't know how graceful, I'm not using the remote power line
Don't know how graceful, I'm not using the remote power line
The power supply has a "standby" mode, which is what I believe you are referring to. In this mode the high voltage supplies are shut down, but the low voltage supplies continue to function normally. This is convenient, since you can have something powered by the low voltage supplies that is waiting for some signal to trigger the HV supplies, and therefore the amplifiers, to turn on. I combine this PS with some IRAUDAMP7 modules that have undervoltage protection. As soon as the rails collapse, the amp modules go into mute mode. This can prevent some odd noises as the HV rails are collapsing and caps discharging.
The PS is put into standby mode by shorting the two pin on header CON401 (the datasheet labels P1 on this connector as "remote" for remote shutdown). You can do this with anything, a mechanical switch for instance (good for testing purposes). You can connect a NO relay across these contacts and then close the contacts via some external circuitry when you want the amps to come on. I am planning to integrate this feature into my speakers that use a Raspberry Pi for the crossover (DSP in software, see my sig) by using the on-board audio-out jack, a 1-op-amp circuit, and a transistor. The external circuit and transistor can be powered by the PS's 7.5V rail, and that can also be used to energise the coil of a 12V relay, so it makes for a very convenient system from one supply. The signal that is sent to the external circuit can be generated by my housekeeping LADSPA plugin. It monitors the audio stream and when it find it above some threshold (e.g. -70dB) it turns on the amps by taking the PS out of standby mode. If anyone wants to test this out on their system, drop me a line and I will send you the housekeeping plugin code. You can also driver the transistor from one of the Pi's GPIO pins, but then you will need to write some code to do this yourself.
Thank you very much for the information on the remote function.
I will be putting it to use.
Curiosity got the best of me and I cut the tape on the transformer to trace the two wires with the red connector. Turns out it is a temp sensor and not needed on these supplies unless you have external circuitry to monitor the temps. So I removed it.
I will be putting it to use.
Curiosity got the best of me and I cut the tape on the transformer to trace the two wires with the red connector. Turns out it is a temp sensor and not needed on these supplies unless you have external circuitry to monitor the temps. So I removed it.
The LED probably does not draw enough current to make the minimum as described by manufacturers specs in post 1. Try a 150ohm shunt resistor in parallel to the LED of you are using it as a power on indicator.
Power Supply Booster Shot Needed
Thanks XRX. Glad you started the thread. Might get some more insight how to better use this supply. As I stated, I did use an LED AND A RESISTOR to load each of the aux outputs. Running in dual, full bridge mode as expected.
It is working. It is stable. But powering a IRS2092 based IRAUD 350W amp for a sub at 4 ohms, it does not compare with my ConnexElectronics power supply. Kind of wimpy, seems to clip easily on peaks. (not equipped with a scope to check out anything more technical). My best guess is the lower AMP rating is too blame. This problem may not be as apparent with the regular output stereo amps (non sub-woofer) where current draw may be less demanding?
Works well for the price. But it's audibly inferior and pretty far from the rated 400W that I hoped it would be.
Problem seems like it could be resolved with better storage caps. But with rectified DC rails coming out, don't know how this could be attempted.
I remain open to advice from the experts. Seems to be some very smart people on diyAudio. It's clearly above my pay grade.
Thanks XRX. Glad you started the thread. Might get some more insight how to better use this supply. As I stated, I did use an LED AND A RESISTOR to load each of the aux outputs. Running in dual, full bridge mode as expected.
It is working. It is stable. But powering a IRS2092 based IRAUD 350W amp for a sub at 4 ohms, it does not compare with my ConnexElectronics power supply. Kind of wimpy, seems to clip easily on peaks. (not equipped with a scope to check out anything more technical). My best guess is the lower AMP rating is too blame. This problem may not be as apparent with the regular output stereo amps (non sub-woofer) where current draw may be less demanding?
Works well for the price. But it's audibly inferior and pretty far from the rated 400W that I hoped it would be.
Problem seems like it could be resolved with better storage caps. But with rectified DC rails coming out, don't know how this could be attempted.
I remain open to advice from the experts. Seems to be some very smart people on diyAudio. It's clearly above my pay grade.
It might be helpful if you or charlie, or anyone for that matter posted a pic of the resistor in place.
I know it would help me figure out the best way to execute the above.
Thanks!
from the IRS2092 thread, CharlieLaub posted:
"Connect one of these between each low voltage output (pins 1 and 2) and the
ground pin (pin 4) on the connector CON203:
150 Ohm 5W Resistor Wire Wound 5% Tolerance
Leave pin 3 on CON 203 unconnected.
This will draw the required current from the low voltage outputs and the PS
will behave. "
That explains it very clearly!
"Connect one of these between each low voltage output (pins 1 and 2) and the
ground pin (pin 4) on the connector CON203:
150 Ohm 5W Resistor Wire Wound 5% Tolerance
Leave pin 3 on CON 203 unconnected.
This will draw the required current from the low voltage outputs and the PS
will behave. "
That explains it very clearly!
Just to make this blindingly clear for the noobs like me, there seem to be about three types of wirewound resistors hanging about in the parts places:
The first one looks like the "classic" resistor that is seen all over the place, they are shaped like the ones that have the colored stripes on them, but typically are one color:
Qty 25 150 Ohm 5 w 1 Axial Wirewound Resistors RS5 150 1 Dale Free Shipping | eBay
Then there are the wirewound ceramic power resistors:
5W 150 R Ohm Ceramic Cement Resistor 5 Pieces Dus | eBay
Finally, there are the wirewound with a heatsink
4pcs 150 Ohm 150R 5W Watt Power Metal Shell Case Wirewound Resistor | eBay
So, while the above is crystal clear is you know exactly what type of wirewound resistor to use, it is a bit ambiguous if you don't know EXACTLY what kind of wirewound 150 ohm 5 watt resistor to use.
Any help from the more experienced would be appreciated.
Dave
I didn't post the link in my quoting of Charlie's posting from the other thread.
This is the link he posted:
150 Ohm 5W Resistor Wire Wound 5% Tolerance
This is the link he posted:
150 Ohm 5W Resistor Wire Wound 5% Tolerance
I have an SMPS300 and an SMPS800RE with 60V output. Not exactly cheap, but they have strong output, especially when you consider the small form factor. When it comes to dual rail, it seems like it's build your own with a transformer/rectifier or buy one of these ready made.
The Abletec sounded OK for the main speakers but wimped out on the subs in the same config.
I had the SMPS800RE powering an IRS2092 amp board into 2 - 12" subs and the output was impressive. I was only using one amp, so only around half the power was actually being used. That's saying a lot considering my normal amp for these subs is a Crown XLS1500.
The resistors don't have to be 5W ones. Since they dissipate less than .5W, a 1W resistor should be fine.
When doing some tests driving a 8ohm 100W resistor with a IRS2092 based amp, above about 50W, the power supply would make a buzzing sound proportional to the frequency (tested at 30-100Hz). I know I won't be able to hear it in normal use but it's still worrying. There was a 4V ripple on the rails so I probably need to add more filter capacitors for subwoofer use. There doesn't seem to be much filtering on the output either (LF and HF) so adding more should improve EMI emissions.
When doing some tests driving a 8ohm 100W resistor with a IRS2092 based amp, above about 50W, the power supply would make a buzzing sound proportional to the frequency (tested at 30-100Hz). I know I won't be able to hear it in normal use but it's still worrying. There was a 4V ripple on the rails so I probably need to add more filter capacitors for subwoofer use. There doesn't seem to be much filtering on the output either (LF and HF) so adding more should improve EMI emissions.
Thanks for the info .... on Power supply issues, I'm really really a measure twice and cut once kind of person.
So, a 1W 150 ohm with an LED to show power would be just fine.
I also happen to need to drive a Raspberry Pi and a simple Bluetooth receiver, both 5V, and I have a couple of voltage regulators laying about for that, Any guesses if the voltage regulator itself will give me the needed load?
LM7805 Step Down Converter Voltage Regulator Module 5V 1 2A Power Supply Module | eBay
So, a 1W 150 ohm with an LED to show power would be just fine.
I also happen to need to drive a Raspberry Pi and a simple Bluetooth receiver, both 5V, and I have a couple of voltage regulators laying about for that, Any guesses if the voltage regulator itself will give me the needed load?
LM7805 Step Down Converter Voltage Regulator Module 5V 1 2A Power Supply Module | eBay
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