The TPA3116D2 has an "over current trip point" specification of 7.5A. Per channel or for the whole chip?
2*120W (24V supply) would require 2 Ohm loads. If the 7.5 Amp are per channel, 120W is in theory possible. But, the 33uH chokes on the board will saturate long before 7.5A.
2*120W is (heavily) exaggerated but it is a fine amplifier for the money.
2*120W (24V supply) would require 2 Ohm loads. If the 7.5 Amp are per channel, 120W is in theory possible. But, the 33uH chokes on the board will saturate long before 7.5A.
2*120W is (heavily) exaggerated but it is a fine amplifier for the money.
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I agree the TI spec doesn't explicitly specify whether the 7.5 trip point is per channel or per chip. But given that this type of rating is for PTBL mode, it is a moot point. There's only one channel driven so it's at least 7.5 (or 15 if the spec means per channel).
All these mfg's use TI's stated spec.'s regardless of whether their implementation can meet it. Personally, I take TI's spec.'s as real. And they do publish 120 W into 2 ohms at 24 V (at 1% THD no less). But few implementations can actually achieve it (as you point out with the inductors). I would also say that you need active cooling to meet thermal restrictions.
On the flip side, many "consumers" have different expertise. And few (outside forums like this) don't understand that the classic 2 x 50W TPA3116 amp will never deliver 50 W into an 8 ohm speaker.
It's seller marketing, bigger numbers more buyers.
I do not disagree with you on the inductor saturation. But also consider this; the power spec.'s are for a sine wave. It's the only consistent way to rate amplifier power. And music is rarely, if ever, as dense as a sine wave. My casual observations indicate 1/2 to 1/3 as dense for a few tracks I've monitored current draw.
Just trying to add info for those who find it useful ...
Not my board but it shows the single chip, 2x50W max, besides the inducters will saturate with more current. Its enough for my applications.
1:0 glue vs. soldering
1:0 glue vs. soldering
There's another $5 down the drain for epoxy
Glad I didn't try to force the heat sink off my similar looking module. Though I think the sink is attached with one of those sticky pads as it did flex a bit.
BTW: I added a "rubber ducky" type antenna to the my module and the reception is much better (though I haven't measured or stressed the distance yet). I just soldered the antenna's feed to the end of the PCB antenna and the shield wire to ground on the nearest PS bypass capacitor's pad.
I have the exact same board. Modified it yesterday to work in PBTL mode. The board only got one TPA3116 chip on it. I have also worked with the bluetooth module to change named eq etc, and the module on my board did not have any predefined eq. In my experience, all of the amplifiers that got an csr86xxx usually does not have any predefined eq. They just got a linear respons as the DSP is usually not activated. If you get yourself an csr programmer from ebay you can change the name, DSP and the transmitting power of the bluetooth ++. An external antenna will work too.
The board does have an op amp for adding some gain, if you remove it and connect wires from directly from the output caps from the BT module to the amp you get a better bass and less noise
Not my board but it shows the single chip, 2x50W max, besides the inducters will saturate with more current. Its enough for my applications.
Had a version of this board, but mine had the chip soldered to the board. The only drawback was that the heatsink fell off and one of the inductors got loose. If you´re buying a module without bluetooth go with this one! No hiss or on/ off pop. Nice sound and got mute pins available. It also has solderpads for changing it to BPTL. By far the best TPA3116 board i´ve come across.
I have the exact same board. Modified it yesterday to work in PBTL mode. The board only got one TPA3116 chip on it. I have also worked with the bluetooth module to change named eq etc, and the module on my board did not have any predefined eq. In my experience, all of the amplifiers that got an csr86xxx usually does not have any predefined eq. They just got a linear respons as the DSP is usually not activated. If you get yourself an csr programmer from ebay you can change the name, DSP and the transmitting power of the bluetooth ++. An external antenna will work too.
The board does have an op amp for adding some gain, if you remove it and connect wires from directly from the output caps from the BT module to the amp you get a better bass and less noise
Had a version of this board, but mine had the chip soldered to the board. The only drawback was that the heatsink fell off and one of the inductors got loose. If you´re buying a module without bluetooth go with this one! No hiss or on/ off pop. Nice sound and got mute pins available. It also has solderpads for changing it to BPTL. By far the best TPA3116 board i´ve come across.
Good point. I measured the FR response before the amp but after the op-amp. Maybe it's the op-amp circuitry limiting bass. I'll re-measure right out of the CSR daughter board to confirm.
I'm using it to drive 8 ohm Large Advent speakers (yes, from 1969) so one chip in stereo mode is not an issue.
I added a "rubber ducky" antenna and reception got much better (but I haven't stress tested the range yet).
Three nice points I like about the amp: (1) It's dead quiet at full volume, connected or not, music paused or not; (2) It powers up to full volume so it sits on a high shelf and is never touched (just connect and play); and (3) No turn on/off pop.
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Re-messure and let ut know, I´m interested to know myself.
Good question, I think they did it to increase the loudness, but probably just because they have copied the design from someone else?? They also change the configuration from differential output from the bluetooth module to singel ended for the amplifier. The only good thing about this is that you can now connect an AUX cable to the amplifier. The drawback, the AUX cable becomes an antenna and introduces some noise if it´s not connected correctly...
The amplifier that was shown actually has 3 pins so you can do just that.
Because they want to be the loudest possible, so no customer complain about having a weak amp when connecting their phones to.
Reducing the gain also reduces noise/hiss.
Clone board with diff input vs self build
Hi, Newbie on the Forum.... Lots of good info on here...
My potential application is to use a number of these amps to make active speakers that will be driven from a semi pro multi channel interface, with balanced outputs. Crossover and EQ will be handled on the computer.
3 questions,
1 -has anyone come across any of the chinese boards that have differential inputs.
2 Is there an audiophile PCB anywhere on the market.
3 Were I to go down the route of self build with a prototype board like the OP, how critical is the proximity of the pvcc decoupling caps to the chip? anyone know what can be got away with in practice.
Hi, Newbie on the Forum.... Lots of good info on here...
My potential application is to use a number of these amps to make active speakers that will be driven from a semi pro multi channel interface, with balanced outputs. Crossover and EQ will be handled on the computer.
3 questions,
1 -has anyone come across any of the chinese boards that have differential inputs.
2 Is there an audiophile PCB anywhere on the market.
3 Were I to go down the route of self build with a prototype board like the OP, how critical is the proximity of the pvcc decoupling caps to the chip? anyone know what can be got away with in practice.
This one has diferential input DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board BTL Out 100W | eBay
I have 2 of them but I have not done more with them then a short test; they work.
Diff. inputs with a 7498E chip: TDA7498E 160W+160W digital stereo amplifier board PBTL 220W mono channel 24v-36v | eBay
Modding boards to connect a differential input can be done, maybe someone else has some info on this.
I have 2 of them but I have not done more with them then a short test; they work.
Diff. inputs with a 7498E chip: TDA7498E 160W+160W digital stereo amplifier board PBTL 220W mono channel 24v-36v | eBay
Modding boards to connect a differential input can be done, maybe someone else has some info on this.
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