Not sure what to tell you Timbo, this is a DIY Forum and even then I don't think that putting together these boards with power supplies and cases is considered DIY by some of the experts here.
The product you have listed does contain the TK2050 chipset, but quite a low powered version (12V 30W into 4ohm) so don't expect to be listening a particularly high volumes. Other than that I have not heard this topping product so cannot comment further.
I have however tried both the Sure board and the HIFIMEDIY T2. Both give amazing value for money, but the Sure board requires some (quite sketchy for a beginner) modification to sound good. Both require a good quality power supply (Meanwell or Connexelectronic) to sound good.
I know its not the advice you were looking for but I would buy a HIFIMEDIY T1 (for 8ohm) or T2(for 4ohm) and a good PSU. Then find a box you can work with (some aluminum cases have plastic end pieces) you will also need an IEC power inlet (fused) x4 speaker connectors x2 RCA plugs and some hookup wire.
All this will probably cost twice as much as the Topping amp, and cost you a few gray hairs, but you will end up with a far more capable amp, better sound and a strange warm glow that only comes with DIY.
probably not in this thread which is pretty much only concerned with amps from hifimediy. I know the thread title doesn't make that at all clear...which is unfortunate. try searching for posts on the Topping amp or starting a new thread.
Thanks nertia and mfaughn, I wasn't really sure where to go for input on this as it seems most talk surrounds the ta2020/2021/2024 chips. It seems that tamps are fairly underground as it is anyway, as ask most people and all you will get is wtf mate? I am a techie sort in general and enjoy building computers etc but draw the line at soldering, plus while I'm very dissatisfied whenever I hear poor SQ (most ppl you meet could barely care), audio isn't exactly an area I'm confident in. Sorry if I plonked my post in the wrong place, I had read several pages beforehand and got the basic gist of what you were talking about but thought this could tie in. I am highly interested in a DIY job in the future but the fact there are maybe a dozen parts to ship form China and/or the USA, something is bound to either not arrive, arrive broken or be broken by me; this will lead to going through it all again!! maybe once I get a pre-built amp matched nicely to a pair of speakers and like the outcome, I can go head first into a DIY job...anywho, from what I've read I could 'hot-rod' the Topping and switch up to a better smps, no?
btw If I were to start a new thread, I take Amplifiers>Class D would be the right place?
btw If I were to start a new thread, I take Amplifiers>Class D would be the right place?
On the left of the IEC (looking at it from the rear as in your photos) shouldn't the Blue lead attach to the terminal above the earth terminal? You seem to have the Live and Neutral on the same plane.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'm getting 18.55v on the out+ and 18.59v on the out-, after I let it get stable temperature wise. It stays around 40°C.
I'm getting around 18.5v on the right channel and also on the other board.
From my research, I thought that you did not use the same grounding location for the two grounds - mains socket and power supply. Each grounding wire is connected to a metal screw using two metal washers. The screw goes through to the bottom of the amplifier, through the timber, and is bolted to the base, which is above ground due to legs on the bottom of the box. Does this sound the correct method? Suggestions would be really appreciated.
Greetings,
I have another question about hooking up my T2 special - smps300r combo. I'm
using a fused iec recp., popped the fuse out of the smps300r, to see what amperage it was, and couldn't read the markings on the fuse so went to the connexelectronics web site and to my old eyes it looks like the schematic specs a 10 amp fuse. Is that right? Seems too large to me and I don't want to fry the board if something shorts.
Thanks
boone
I have another question about hooking up my T2 special - smps300r combo. I'm
using a fused iec recp., popped the fuse out of the smps300r, to see what amperage it was, and couldn't read the markings on the fuse so went to the connexelectronics web site and to my old eyes it looks like the schematic specs a 10 amp fuse. Is that right? Seems too large to me and I don't want to fry the board if something shorts.
Thanks
boone
10A looks too large to me to! my 300R has a 2.5A fuse.
Mains in my country is 240V. I guess you'll have to pick 5A for 110V mains.
My Hifimedy T4 and SMPS500R combo is now working. I connected them up to my Paradigm Mini Monitors v6 and the amp sounds great. I don't have much to compare it too, except my Yamaha RX-V767 receiver. Thanks everyone for your advice and help. I will post pics once I have finalized the case.
RECYCLED PARTS USED !
Hi
This is a HifiMeDiy T2 installed in a broken pc-dvd box, painted in glossy black , with a wooden phase plate from my sons toys. On/Off switch comes from an old mini cooper !.
Sound is amazing, i had to change the epcos input caps with Theta PPMX 2uf bypassed with mkp1837 vishay caps though to achieve better dynamics.
External power supply used is a meanwell 27v dc (wth a wima 0.47uf mkp cap sorting negative with ground).
Vassilis
Hi
This is a HifiMeDiy T2 installed in a broken pc-dvd box, painted in glossy black , with a wooden phase plate from my sons toys. On/Off switch comes from an old mini cooper !.
Sound is amazing, i had to change the epcos input caps with Theta PPMX 2uf bypassed with mkp1837 vishay caps though to achieve better dynamics.
External power supply used is a meanwell 27v dc (wth a wima 0.47uf mkp cap sorting negative with ground).
Vassilis
Attachments
So it's ok on the output. I suggest you to re-solder the rp1 on the bottom.
well, you got me going around in circles now. I resoldered the rp1 the first time around.
I have attached the picture of the PR1.
Is the controller chip maybe at fault or something else?
Not sure this is a good idea, fully charged batteries tend to deliver more than their rated voltage. Also the bulk power cap on my board is rated 25V so 27.8V is over 10% more than its rating.
I think these boards are REALLY designed for low voltages. You might still get some good sound @ 24V with a T1 or T2 if cost/size is not an issue.
HifimeDIY and SMPS300R
Put together the T4 with SMPS300R - very nice results.
Thanks to forum member Kristielfur for pointing me towards this particular TK2050 based design. Friends who have heard the sound of the amp with my Alpair 12 Studio Reference Monitors really liked it.
Also thanks to user IBM5150 for helping out with the VC23 pre-amp. That one is up and running too. Nice preamp, but I like the sound of the T4 direct from source more.
-Zia
Put together the T4 with SMPS300R - very nice results.
Thanks to forum member Kristielfur for pointing me towards this particular TK2050 based design. Friends who have heard the sound of the amp with my Alpair 12 Studio Reference Monitors really liked it.
Also thanks to user IBM5150 for helping out with the VC23 pre-amp. That one is up and running too. Nice preamp, but I like the sound of the T4 direct from source more.
-Zia
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.