Hi, pls tell me more about the board, is it T1 with or without pot, and how did you flip the inputs(at board or your RCA connectors), may be a photo will help.
It's a t1 with an alps pot. I flipped the inputs at the RCAs by resoldering the wires. I used the plastic connector and extended the wires with my own. I connected two wires to the ground wire from the connector to each of the RCAs.
Thanks
Thanks
TK2050? yes I have a new 4 channel design.
Good news!
Will it/they be similar to T1/T2 or T3/T4, ie low power or high power?
Thanks,
Rod
Got it working. Steinar helped me via email.
I lost a nut for one of the binding posts. I tried to solder the negative left output directory to it. But decided to change it to a ring crimp connector and it worked.
Sounds like the tripath sound I enjoyed in my hlly ta2020.
But mroe powerful.
I lost a nut for one of the binding posts. I tried to solder the negative left output directory to it. But decided to change it to a ring crimp connector and it worked.
Sounds like the tripath sound I enjoyed in my hlly ta2020.
But mroe powerful.
What might have gone wrong. I connected my T1 first time and after a moment i smelt a strange smell and my left channel is now dead. I might have short circuited the left channel, but not really sure about it. Any component that has most likely broken if short circuited? Channel offset is at zero with both channels.
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I short-circuited a 41Hz Amp11, a very similar amp. It wasn't even a serious short - no power no nothing, but it was a really really low ohm connection for a moment. The result was a nuked output chip.
If that is also the case here, then desoldering is not difficult at all. Just put tons of solder on and melt it until you can slide the chip on. Resoldering isn't that difficult either ... I think you can buy a replacement chip at 41Hz in Sweden.
In this T1 amp i assume the output chip is sta510.
Hifimediy,
Any estimate you'll get more of sta510-amps built?
Just wanted to mention that 41Hz ought to have STA517B chips available, which are arguably an upgrade to the STA510. Higher current output, and some say better sound.
Just wanted to mention that 41Hz ought to have STA517B chips available, which are arguably an upgrade to the STA510. Higher current output, and some say better sound.
Yes, but I think that although the STA510 is a drop in replacement for STA508 the STA517b requires a modified design.
In the Hifmediy world T1 is/was avcailable in both 508 and 510 flavours. The T3 and T4 use STA517b, I don't think you can swap a 517 into the T1.
You can indeed swap a STA517B in for a STA510. It does not need a modified design; I am 100% sure of this. I have done the swap myself in a 41Hz Amp4, which uses a lowly STA505 in stock form. The Hifimediys are the same. (And the STA517B is even an upgrade - you get higher current capability, so you could technically drive lower-ohm loads and get more power. Same power at the same voltage with the same speakers though, and you can't make the assembled amp operate on higher voltages without further modifications.)
(You need a modified amp to utilize the maximum rail voltage range of the STA517B, but that's another story. You don't even need a modified design, just some new components.)
Just to clear this up
I totally understand if you want Hifimediy to fix it rather than messing with the amp yourself.
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Speaking of changing parts - does anyone know of a good nickel alloy core for the output inductors? I believe nickel based cores are lower distortion in the HF range & nickel cores are used in the in Virtue Sensation amps based on the TK2050, I believe.
I have some Dave Slagle output preamp transformers 80% nickel & they sound absolutely fantastic with particularly crystalline HF - the LF is also wonderful which comes as a surprise to some, even Dave himself.
I have some Dave Slagle output preamp transformers 80% nickel & they sound absolutely fantastic with particularly crystalline HF - the LF is also wonderful which comes as a surprise to some, even Dave himself.
right channel puts heatsink burning
Right channel offset voltage is between 20 mv and -7 mv, even after I adjust it to 0 mv.
While left channel stays at +/-1 mv.
When right channel offset voltage is 20mv, heatsink gets too hot to touch.
Even if there is no input or volume is down.
Coils are not even warm.
Right channel offset voltage is between 20 mv and -7 mv, even after I adjust it to 0 mv.
While left channel stays at +/-1 mv.
When right channel offset voltage is 20mv, heatsink gets too hot to touch.
Even if there is no input or volume is down.
Coils are not even warm.
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Thanks for your information. But it's still not easy to find out the reason for me now.
sorry about that
I think the inductors we are using is suggested in the TK2050 app books. and if the inductor is good in linear and power capability, it will be ok too for class-T, I don't know very much about nickel alloy but I really tried some other types and most of them can not handle well.
No problem.
Nickel cores if kept away from saturation, are lower distortion!
Here's a possible source - has anybody used them? http://www.magnet-tech.com/core/NiZn/characteristics.htm
Nickel cores if kept away from saturation, are lower distortion!
Here's a possible source - has anybody used them? http://www.magnet-tech.com/core/NiZn/characteristics.htm
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