Is this this the reason for changing the existing inductors or do they have a low saturation current, high resistance, or other nasties?
I would love to know if there are and what benefits is to be had for using a PSU beyond 24v ? I am about to buy my PSU, so will hold off for a bit
v-bro 50 volts! You're way braver than I am. I tend to draw the line at staying below manufacturer's recommendations. I know that Jay at Winsome Labs even cautions against going about 30 volts, or at lest 30 volts with batteries since battery voltages are sort of nominal. For me at this point, brave would be changing the input caps myself. My main speakers just have an 8" woofer, so I'm not sure the bigger cap will make that much difference. Maybe the higher quality cap might though.
I definitely can hear a difference between 12 and 19.5. My guess is that 24 with batteries ( I may have the only 12 volt ni-cad batteries still out there) is going to be really interesting. I can't go to 30 until I order something off E-Bay.
I did briefly think about taking two old laptop supplies, cutting the connector, and running them in series, but I'm too klutzy and could easily short something out.
It's interesting, folks made such a huge deal of the Sonic Impact being a great bargain at 20-30 dolars US. I know there's a difference between finished product and a board, but the Sure Board is a terrific deal.
I definitely can hear a difference between 12 and 19.5. My guess is that 24 with batteries ( I may have the only 12 volt ni-cad batteries still out there) is going to be really interesting. I can't go to 30 until I order something off E-Bay.
I did briefly think about taking two old laptop supplies, cutting the connector, and running them in series, but I'm too klutzy and could easily short something out.
It's interesting, folks made such a huge deal of the Sonic Impact being a great bargain at 20-30 dolars US. I know there's a difference between finished product and a board, but the Sure Board is a terrific deal.
32v
The stock feedback resistors are optimized for 32vI would love to know if there are and what benefits is to be had for using a PSU beyond 24v ? I am about to buy my PSU, so will hold off for a bit
22uH
The stock coils are too high in value at 22uH. The wire is hair fine. All coils, even with identical value, sound different. The Wurth XXL happen to sound the best for whatever reason.
The stock coils are too high in value at 22uH. The wire is hair fine. All coils, even with identical value, sound different. The Wurth XXL happen to sound the best for whatever reason.
300ma
I measured the current draw. The Sure 2X100 uses about 300ma at 32v at idle and about 330ma at high power.
I measured the current draw. The Sure 2X100 uses about 300ma at 32v at idle and about 330ma at high power.
Oh! To go to 50V you have to replace a bunch of components - including replacing the output driver chip with a chip that can actually take 50V, such as the STA517B.
Don't take a stock amp anywhere near 50V!
I'm still at the level of being really happy when I can actually hook it up and get it in a case and have it play music without the smell of burnt capacitors filling the room.
I really enjoy this board, but most mods I wouldn't dare do on my own. 50 volts on the Sure board is way beyond me. I wouldn't be shocked (sorry about the pun) at all if it sounds great though.
I did order a 32 volt HP 7130 printer power supply 3 + amps. I think it was 14.99 including shipping. I did try 24 volts of nicads last night. It sounded very promising, but I think the memory effect might have been a problem. I hadn't touched the batteries in years, charged them up (or so I thought) then they worked for about 5 minutes before making scratchy sounds.
Our home HP printer has an adapter that's 32 volts and 1 amp. I was tempted, but would have had to cut the connector off (odd size) and had a feeling that my wife might not be happy with me. She wasn't too happy about the batteries either :}.
I've been very pleased running the t-2020 with a smallish nimh battery pack. Thing plays forever and sounds very good.
In terms of what they call the "first watt" I still think it's a close call between the t-2020 Arjen version and the unmodified SURE under 20 volts and still not broken in. Once the music gets loud and busy, the difference is more obvious. The t-2020 with a decent tubed pre-amp and big speakers sounds awfully good for solo guitar or small voice ensemble.
I really enjoy this board, but most mods I wouldn't dare do on my own. 50 volts on the Sure board is way beyond me. I wouldn't be shocked (sorry about the pun) at all if it sounds great though.
I did order a 32 volt HP 7130 printer power supply 3 + amps. I think it was 14.99 including shipping. I did try 24 volts of nicads last night. It sounded very promising, but I think the memory effect might have been a problem. I hadn't touched the batteries in years, charged them up (or so I thought) then they worked for about 5 minutes before making scratchy sounds.
Our home HP printer has an adapter that's 32 volts and 1 amp. I was tempted, but would have had to cut the connector off (odd size) and had a feeling that my wife might not be happy with me. She wasn't too happy about the batteries either :}.
I've been very pleased running the t-2020 with a smallish nimh battery pack. Thing plays forever and sounds very good.
In terms of what they call the "first watt" I still think it's a close call between the t-2020 Arjen version and the unmodified SURE under 20 volts and still not broken in. Once the music gets loud and busy, the difference is more obvious. The t-2020 with a decent tubed pre-amp and big speakers sounds awfully good for solo guitar or small voice ensemble.
I have just received my 2050 amp there seem to be a couple of changes, one the amp came with an extra 12v fan and the whole heatsink appears to be attached via a pair of clips instead of glued, so easy to swap the fan out for the 12v and run it on a 12 v battery or a low volt ext supply.
Also underneath the board across from the input to the GND is a pair of what look like large caps?
The markings are U943 with AG underneath, I don't recall this being mentioned on any posts but maybe I just missed it.
Any ideas?
Also underneath the board across from the input to the GND is a pair of what look like large caps?
The markings are U943 with AG underneath, I don't recall this being mentioned on any posts but maybe I just missed it.
Any ideas?
I have received my board just yesterday, it is equipped with a MSI chipset cooler and underneath three are two component marked C935 AG, I believe that are bidirecional transient suppressors, a sort of zener mounted to protect the input.
I don't remember if theese components were assembled in the previus version of this board.
I don't remember if theese components were assembled in the previus version of this board.
Attachments
I think they're diodes. This is the first one I've had, so I never saw the old version of the board. I'd be surprised to find out that they're big capacitors of any kind. I find it interesting that SURE seems to pay attention to this board. They added the fan to the heatsink, then ran the fan at 5 volts. I think both ideas came up in this thread.
I looked back at the early post on this thread and it seems they are some sort of supressor though the numbers are now different, anyhow I will be removing them.
One thing I must say is that Sure are very efficient on the postage end, at least to Aus, I think my board came within 5 working days!
Any updates on output inductors/coils, I am trying to decide which way to go, hedging towards air cores.
What is the run in time on one of these boards, the 2024 boards seemed to need about 30 hrs or so?
One thing I must say is that Sure are very efficient on the postage end, at least to Aus, I think my board came within 5 working days!
Any updates on output inductors/coils, I am trying to decide which way to go, hedging towards air cores.
What is the run in time on one of these boards, the 2024 boards seemed to need about 30 hrs or so?
I would love to know if there are and what benefits is to be had for using a PSU beyond 24v ? I am about to buy my PSU, so will hold off for a bit
The Sure is designed for 32V. Look at previous posts to see why. The difference is slight, but it's what the stock configuration of the board wants.
dr_vega
Here is the plan, any comments
I have my first board up and running as a test mule.
So far I have added new input caps (foil) and left the small caps in parallel, removed the other input caps and resistors and those odd devices across the inputs and removed the 2 main diodes on the power input.
The amp is running on 26V battery power using large SLAs.
The sound for the first 5 mins was terrible but it soon smoothed out (funny characteristic that) it is burning in nicely and has 6 hrs or so up and frankly sounds mighty fine even now. It runs very cool, I cannot detect any heat on the heatsink, but then I am certainly not pushing it hard either, currently just of my iPods dock outlet.
At this point I would have to say it is the best bang for buck amp I have ever heard.
I am planning to add air core inductors and lay them down parallel with the board and place them in copper tubing with a good air gap to fully shield them.
I think I might place tank caps right at the chips on the bottom of the board, probably 1000 uf pannys with 2200 uf outboard in place of the current tank caps, I will probably put small tant caps across the 1000 uf caps as well.
Separate 5V supply for the fan from its own reg etc fed by a separate battery, this will feed all the fans as there will be 4 2050 boards plus 2 2024 in total to feed a pair of 6 Driver OBs that I have had running on gainclones for the last 18 months or so.
Largish value cap across the batteries to kill residual noise, I will need to test for the optimum.
Change the resistors needed to match the power supply.
Place a pair of copper clad shield boards above and below the current one earthed to the ground point on the amp board,
So does anyone have further suggestions that are likely to give a real improvement or warnings for my intended pathway.
I have my first board up and running as a test mule.
So far I have added new input caps (foil) and left the small caps in parallel, removed the other input caps and resistors and those odd devices across the inputs and removed the 2 main diodes on the power input.
The amp is running on 26V battery power using large SLAs.
The sound for the first 5 mins was terrible but it soon smoothed out (funny characteristic that) it is burning in nicely and has 6 hrs or so up and frankly sounds mighty fine even now. It runs very cool, I cannot detect any heat on the heatsink, but then I am certainly not pushing it hard either, currently just of my iPods dock outlet.
At this point I would have to say it is the best bang for buck amp I have ever heard.
I am planning to add air core inductors and lay them down parallel with the board and place them in copper tubing with a good air gap to fully shield them.
I think I might place tank caps right at the chips on the bottom of the board, probably 1000 uf pannys with 2200 uf outboard in place of the current tank caps, I will probably put small tant caps across the 1000 uf caps as well.
Separate 5V supply for the fan from its own reg etc fed by a separate battery, this will feed all the fans as there will be 4 2050 boards plus 2 2024 in total to feed a pair of 6 Driver OBs that I have had running on gainclones for the last 18 months or so.
Largish value cap across the batteries to kill residual noise, I will need to test for the optimum.
Change the resistors needed to match the power supply.
Place a pair of copper clad shield boards above and below the current one earthed to the ground point on the amp board,
So does anyone have further suggestions that are likely to give a real improvement or warnings for my intended pathway.
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