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Old 28th April 2008, 01:15 PM   #1
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Default UcD400HG amp finished

Hi all,

After more then 3 years of (satisfying) listening with a pair of UcD400AD, I decided to build a brand new amp, with parts 100% supplied from Hypex.

Just want to share some pics, and some comments.

No I have brand new, totally unmodified UcD400HG, with HpR and HnR, HG mon psu and the 400VA trannies.

Will post the pics one by one.

Cheers,
- Dan
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Old 28th April 2008, 01:48 PM   #2
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My "old" UcD400 was powered by a home made PSU, using HFA08TB60 diodes from Schuro in Germany, and Cerafine 10.000µF caps (4x for thge whole stereo amp). Some 1µF MKP caps bypassed the Cerafines, and 47nF the diodes.

At the beginning I wasn't happy with the coupling caps in the UcD modules, and bypassed them. From the the input XLR's I connected 2 Auricap 6µF caps per channel. This improvement was very noticable.

Since my (actual) preamp has some output caps, I put a switch which bypassed the Auricaps - so there were virtualy no coupling caps in my amp.
Thanks to DIYAUDIO.COM I changed the AD8620 to LM4562 which I bought in quantity at Mouser - paid more then 100 bucks, but sold most of them, and had a per unit price which is a half as what you can find them here in Europe - at least in 2007. Today, Schuro offers them for 5,36 € piece, which is less then half the AD8620 - foe a better sounding OpAmp.

That's where I stopped the mods, because the case became small, and the boards a little messed up. No changes of the filtercaps, or special regulation for the OpAmps. Also, the case was handmade and not exactly a beauty or well made.
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Old 28th April 2008, 01:54 PM   #3
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The case for the new amp was made by a colleague and friend, Thomas, who is a very skilled designer, but also handyman.

The bottomplate is a alu plate in 4mm, the back panel MDF in various thicknesses, and painted in black.

All coonectors are screwed on the wood panel: Neutrick XLR connectors, some Teflon insulated goldplated RCA sockets, WBT connectors for the speaker output.
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:00 PM   #4
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Here all components are mounted and wired. The flat wire which is going out to the front is the to connect the Mute switch, which is a circular blue Led type. You can see it on the left rounded corner; it's actually on. I put a connector, because this switch will be in the front panel (see some pics later).
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:04 PM   #5
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A detail of the modules: the UcD power amps are mounted with an alu corner, actuall not very thick (2.4mm) - I'll see if it's enough to tranfer the heat to the bottom alu plate, which should be enough to dissioate the calories (I'm not using the amp for partying...).

Wiring is very short, high quality speaker cable, and teflon insulated, silverplated single wires for the input, w/o shielding.
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:09 PM   #6
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nother view of the mounting and wiring. I didn't used the provided faston connectors, everything has been soldered with 4% silver solder; all wires ahev heatshrink tubes to make it look pretty neat.

Observe the red SMD Leds on the regulators, together with the blue Led on the UcD board - kind of weird color combination, but looks interesting. I might make some holes in the top plate in that area, if the amp heats up, and will make the lights easily being seen from outside.
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:13 PM   #7
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Now the cover is on, and the back looks clean and simple - no need to writ who is who.

As explained, the main switch is the one in the back (since I leave the amp on constantly, except when I'm on holidays or so).

The UcD modules have a mute function, which is been done by the front switch.
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:21 PM   #8
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Front view of the amp: it's again wood (MDF), rounded and with a real Wenge wood veneer. Top plate is an anodised alu plate. It's simple and very classy.

The switch is off here. Actually it's broken... it was an on/off switch, but my iron heatd it probably up too much, now it doesn't work anymore. It became a pushbutton. I have to change it (see if my supplier will replace it, for 8 € each he can do this!!)
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:24 PM   #9
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this is the same pic, but the LED in the switch powered - it needs 24 volts! Which I'm taking from the additional +/-12V supply on the Hypex HG mone PSU.

Some parts, such as the feets, connectors, and the circular LED switch came from Audiophonics.fr, who also can provide the Hypex modules. They have nice cases too, but not as mine!
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:33 PM   #10
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So, how does it sound?
It's too early to say, it need some time to burn in.

After 24 hours I can say that I don't regret to have changed: it seems to be relaxed, and more room around the instruments.

Actually, high frequencies are a little metallic, and not so natural (maybe even slightly recessed?).
I guess it comes from the coupling caps, which are Panasonic polyester or so.
In a week, when the amp has been "aged" a little I'll make a first trial: bypassing the 680nF (which are C36 and C37 on the UcD400HG, and C1 and C2 on the UcD180) withe the "magical" Vishay Roederstein MKP1837.
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