I'm having some problem with the switch to my batteries.
Heres a picture of how I wired everything.
It is an on-off switch. (https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/init.do?item=35-038-51&toc=0)
So the problem is when i shut it off (the switch) and then attempt to put it on there is no sound at all. To get it work I must take off the awakejumper and then put it back on.
Does anyone know where the problem is?
Heres a picture of how I wired everything.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It is an on-off switch. (https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/init.do?item=35-038-51&toc=0)
So the problem is when i shut it off (the switch) and then attempt to put it on there is no sound at all. To get it work I must take off the awakejumper and then put it back on.
Does anyone know where the problem is?
Sorry, but I don't understand. Do you mean that the hole in the cabinet should be smaller that the widest diameter of the paper cone?
I'm not clear on what the suspension is? Is it the black foam on the rim of the driver? I measured inside of that.
--edit
Oh, NOW I get it! The paper cone has a part that is not conical but is parallell to the rim, it is folded and I guess that is a suspension for the cone. A bit slow today, I blame the very hot summer weather we have...
When measured without what I guess it the suspension the cones mouth is more like 196 mm...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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The battery charger needs to be hooked directly to the batteries and not shut off by the switch! Unless it is made for such low voltage batteries, you might need a diode series to the battery charger to arrange for a little voltage drop.
10v solar panels sag down to 8v (and less--much less) when trying to charge batteries. This parallel wiring of solar panels simply isn't going to charge the batteries. You need your 10v solar panels in series, and the allegedly 20v will actually put out 15 or 16v (in really bright sun) which will get a voltage drop down to 14v or less in the charge controller and then charge the batteries.
Thanks for the reply!
Forgot to mention that I can disconnect the cable from the switch to take it out of the boominator and go charge it. And I can also disconnent the cable that goes to the solar charge controller so I can take the batteries out.
Do you understand what I mean?
I still dont understand when I shut it off, and then when I turn it back on there is no sound?
I need to manually remove the jumper (on the amp6) and put it back there to get it to work again.
Regarding the solar panels I will connect them in series then.
Sorry for doubleposting but I think I know where the problem is.
This is how I wired (to the left)
But this is as it should be (to the right), right?
This is how I wired (to the left)
But this is as it should be (to the right), right?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You could set your switch as awake/sleep OR mute/unmute jumper, the Amp6 uses very little power in idle..
Ouch, right is correct. To the left you're shorting the batteries - which I don't think I have to tell you, is a BAD thing
Ouch, right is correct. To the left you're shorting the batteries - which I don't think I have to tell you, is a BAD thing
hehe thats not good
Don't really know why I did like that cause I've done right with my switch to the leds.. Why didnt I just look at that switch?
Anyway thanks for the replys!
Hey Saturnus
Did you ever get to test those 2.4GHz wireless audio modules we talked about with Coffin Camp last year in the Roskilde Festival forum? It seemed like such an awesome idea!
Otherwise I'm probably up for some testing for next year.
Did you ever get to test those 2.4GHz wireless audio modules we talked about with Coffin Camp last year in the Roskilde Festival forum? It seemed like such an awesome idea!
Otherwise I'm probably up for some testing for next year.
No. Instead I found this product which is a finished completed product that seems to offer everything wanted plus a little more, and being in a smart little package.
i2i Stream - Aerielle Technologies, Inc.
i2i Stream - Aerielle Technologies, Inc.
Ahh, looks cool. Have you tried them yet?
Another option could be in-ear monitoring systems. Transmitters usually run at about 300-400mA at 12V and receivers on 2xAA and should have a lot more range. But are also more expensive and a lot harder to use I guess.
Or the EMU Pipeline which seems to be a bit like those i2i units.
I just got in one of these things:
USB Bluetooth Wireless Stereo Audio Receiver for iPhone iPad Android Phone | eBay
I can play MP3 files on my cellphone and stream them to this gadget with bluetooth, which then outputs analog audio into my stereo. Works pretty well, sound quality seems pretty clean. I haven't measured how much current it draws yet, I'll do that sometime.
There's a little LED in this gadget that blinks when audio plays through it. If standby current is sufficiently low, and I use the blinkenled to turn on/off the audio amp, I could make a 100% sealed stereo if I wanted to - no external connectors/switches. Just solar panels and speakers on the outside.
USB Bluetooth Wireless Stereo Audio Receiver for iPhone iPad Android Phone | eBay
I can play MP3 files on my cellphone and stream them to this gadget with bluetooth, which then outputs analog audio into my stereo. Works pretty well, sound quality seems pretty clean. I haven't measured how much current it draws yet, I'll do that sometime.
There's a little LED in this gadget that blinks when audio plays through it. If standby current is sufficiently low, and I use the blinkenled to turn on/off the audio amp, I could make a 100% sealed stereo if I wanted to - no external connectors/switches. Just solar panels and speakers on the outside.
The QLM-1005 is not one of my recommended replicas. I'm also sure the 113 ohm is too much for a motorola replica. 33 or 47 ohms would be recommended for that type of piezo.
Try that first. I won't help much though. Second is to mod the piezos with sealant as described earlier in this thread. And remember the part about taking them apart and glueing them back together.
That's about all you can do with a subpar replica. If you want a piezo to actually sound good, you have to buy original motorola/CTS KSN-1001A or KSN-1005A.
Is it possible you're clipping your amp at volume levels >85%? Clipping creates pretty horrible sounding distortion, and a fair bit of that ends up coming out of the tweeters.
Fairly simple to find out if you're overexerting your tweeters or clipping your amp - increase the value of the series resistors a lot (up to 1K or something) which will attenuate the tweeter, put your ear by a tweeter and see if it still starts to break up at the same 85%+ volume level. If it still happens, you're clipping the amp.
Or if you can borrow an oscilloscope, just watch one of the amp output terminals - if the output bounces off ground or the +12V rail, it's your problem.