Vented is better in this case, approx. 3-5dB extra between 80-200Hz
As i see it freq below 60hz is not interesting
Green: Vented, 40,0l, Fb 71Hz F3 68hz, port dimensions 100x22 or 2x 100x125mm (round)
Blue: Closed 48,5l (Qtc: 0,707), F3 77Hz
i you give me th inner dimetions of the box, i can caluculate a rectalgle port instead.
Attachments
Thank you!Yep, I knew that. Just some painting to do now...
I've read that some take off the rubber from the grill and some let them be, so what is the best way?
As it has been mentioned before:
1. Take off rubber rim.
2. Use a thick layer off glue to glue baffle, grill and speaker (foam on the front of speaker) together - with the grill between the baffle and the speaker of course.
3. Press the whole thing together for as long as it takes for the glue to harden.
4. Remove the pressure and wait for the foam to reset.
That should be the way to do it according to an earlier post by Saturnus.
Hi Andreas,
Thanks for your reply, i really appreciate it!
Here's a rough drawing of what kind of look i was going for and as you can see i've made room for a cutout under the drivers(Furthermore, there no bracing in the picture which i will include.)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The inner measures in each of the two compartments is: 376x332x400mm, but these can be changed to fit any needs, except the width at 332(So it fits our handcart)
And i agree that anything below 60Hz is unnecessary, since this is for outdoor use.
If you have any other ideas, then please do let me know, since I'm pretty green with DIY-audio
I was also thinking of something like this(Also a rough draft), but I really don't know how to calculate it properly... Furthermore I'm on Mac and I can't seem to find any proper speaker design software for Mac OSX. Anyways, here it is:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I disagree. Making the cabinet as rigid as possible is vital for good bass performance, both in sound quality but also for sensitivity. Remember that when the cabinet vibrates, it's because energy produced by the speakers is vasted and the cabinet will also produce sound, just in opposite phase mostly.
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Hi again,
I've shortened the box a bit to reach to end goal of 40L.
So the inside measurements are now 332x376x350 = 43,7 liters.
With bracing and driver, that should should get me fairly close to the 40L.
Here's the drawing with a port of 332x30x93mm and with bracing(Is more needed?):
Furthermore, the bracing at the bottom of the speaker is that gonna be an issue in regards to the port? In terms of airflow and so on?
I've shortened the box a bit to reach to end goal of 40L.
So the inside measurements are now 332x376x350 = 43,7 liters.
With bracing and driver, that should should get me fairly close to the 40L.
Here's the drawing with a port of 332x30x93mm and with bracing(Is more needed?):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Furthermore, the bracing at the bottom of the speaker is that gonna be an issue in regards to the port? In terms of airflow and so on?
Hi again,
I have another question I would like some input on. Since we are going with two boxes, then we need to make a decision on how to wire the boxes.
The equipment:
Box 1: Contains Amp6b, two HP10W and two PHT-407N (And crossover(s))
Box 2: Contains two HP12W.
We want to able to carry around the primary box(box 1) with the amp and then connect it with box 2, when more output is needed.
And after doing some research I was thinking of these two possible solutions.
1. Wire the two HP10W's in parallel and the two PHT-407N in series on a passive crossover on left or right channel on the amp. Then box 2 will be connected on the other channel when needed.
2. Wire one HP10W and one PHT-407N(with crossovers) on each channel and when needed connected one HP12W in parallel with a HP10W's on each channel. So the load on the amp should be 4ohm from the two drivers and the 8ohms from the tweeter on each channel(With a passive crossover).
Option 1: Will leave us without stereo and even when connected to box 2, then there's no sound above 3Khz, so this will probably sound really bad and going mono is not a good option either.
Option 2: I've tried to find some conclusive material on this, but if I understand it correctly, it's possible, but we could wind up having muddy sound, even though the HP10W and HP12W are almost identical(Besides the cone area)
What are your recommendations on this? And is there an even better third option?
I have another question I would like some input on. Since we are going with two boxes, then we need to make a decision on how to wire the boxes.
The equipment:
Box 1: Contains Amp6b, two HP10W and two PHT-407N (And crossover(s))
Box 2: Contains two HP12W.
We want to able to carry around the primary box(box 1) with the amp and then connect it with box 2, when more output is needed.
And after doing some research I was thinking of these two possible solutions.
1. Wire the two HP10W's in parallel and the two PHT-407N in series on a passive crossover on left or right channel on the amp. Then box 2 will be connected on the other channel when needed.
2. Wire one HP10W and one PHT-407N(with crossovers) on each channel and when needed connected one HP12W in parallel with a HP10W's on each channel. So the load on the amp should be 4ohm from the two drivers and the 8ohms from the tweeter on each channel(With a passive crossover).
Option 1: Will leave us without stereo and even when connected to box 2, then there's no sound above 3Khz, so this will probably sound really bad and going mono is not a good option either.
Option 2: I've tried to find some conclusive material on this, but if I understand it correctly, it's possible, but we could wind up having muddy sound, even though the HP10W and HP12W are almost identical(Besides the cone area)
What are your recommendations on this? And is there an even better third option?
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you should do this IMO:
Connect 2 of them to one channel on the AMP (4 ohm) .. and when only running on those 2, use a MONO-jack .. when you want them both together then you connects the other box with the AMP and use a STEREO-jack .. by duing that you get mono when only running on the one with the amp.. when only running on the one with the amp, it really doesn't matter that much if its stereo or mono .. i've made somthing quite simular, just with 2 boxes with one HP10w in each..
Use double adhesive thermal pads (usually available in computer specialist shops).
i see
do we have a name for that in danish? and what kind og glue can be used og should i just screw it on?
i see
I have no idea. It sort of goes without saying that if you use double adhesive thermal pads that you don't need glue or screws.
i see
"Double adhesive" means that it has glue on both sides, so no extra glue is needed. In danish it's called "dobbeltklæbende termisk tape". It can be bought in most computer hardware stores.
Figured I'd throw this up for people to poke at - the sketchup concept for my "imperial boominator".
I'm using imperial measurements - the design is 12x12x36 inches, which is slightly bigger than the original 90x30x30 cm. To keep the volume the same I've widened the center compartment to 4 inches, which allows wider 12aH batteries to be used instead of the usual 7aH size.
A few things aren't done:
- Rounding the outside edges of the box, to match the corner bumpers I bought which are designed to sit against a rounded edge.
- Holes in the center brace
- A final concept for how the battery compartment will look - I don't like the "double battery holder" I've created, and I'd like to model the electronics a bit better.
And a few notes:
- The speaker component in the drawing is modeled after a HP-10W, not the GW-1058 which I plan to use.
- Tweeters are GT-1001, and the tweeter model is also far from accurate
- Corners are McBride LPC-1, handles are McBride PH-1, ports are Goldwood PT-307.
I'm using imperial measurements - the design is 12x12x36 inches, which is slightly bigger than the original 90x30x30 cm. To keep the volume the same I've widened the center compartment to 4 inches, which allows wider 12aH batteries to be used instead of the usual 7aH size.
A few things aren't done:
- Rounding the outside edges of the box, to match the corner bumpers I bought which are designed to sit against a rounded edge.
- Holes in the center brace
- A final concept for how the battery compartment will look - I don't like the "double battery holder" I've created, and I'd like to model the electronics a bit better.
And a few notes:
- The speaker component in the drawing is modeled after a HP-10W, not the GW-1058 which I plan to use.
- Tweeters are GT-1001, and the tweeter model is also far from accurate
- Corners are McBride LPC-1, handles are McBride PH-1, ports are Goldwood PT-307.
gmarsh, I appreciate the effort but there are certain points that needs to be changed or at least considered.
1) Not sure if the volume will be accurate. Have to calculate that.
2) You should not change the port/handle construction. It serves multiple purposes as it is.
2a) The inner part of wood that the port/handle is constructed of braces the end piece.
2b) The port size is developed in order to have very high air flow in order to limit cone excursion under the Fp point helping the (usually first order) high pass filter in the amp input.
2c) The port shape is developed so that air flow noise because of the necessary high air flow is spread frequency instead of concentrated on a single frequency as it would be with a round port.
2d) The port placement is chosen in the middle of the end wall in order for the drivers to be evenly loaded to avoid variations between the drivers to occur which generates very destructive distortion at high volumes.
1) Not sure if the volume will be accurate. Have to calculate that.
2) You should not change the port/handle construction. It serves multiple purposes as it is.
2a) The inner part of wood that the port/handle is constructed of braces the end piece.
2b) The port size is developed in order to have very high air flow in order to limit cone excursion under the Fp point helping the (usually first order) high pass filter in the amp input.
2c) The port shape is developed so that air flow noise because of the necessary high air flow is spread frequency instead of concentrated on a single frequency as it would be with a round port.
2d) The port placement is chosen in the middle of the end wall in order for the drivers to be evenly loaded to avoid variations between the drivers to occur which generates very destructive distortion at high volumes.
1) Volume is fairly close. The internal dimensions of a speaker compartment end up being 11x11x15 inches (29.74L) if you neglect the center brace, ports, etc. The standard Boominator is 27.6cm*27.6cm*39.6cm = 30.17L, so my box has -1.4% less volume inside - I'm suspecting manufacturing variation in the speakers, my using GW-1058's instead of HP-10Ws, etc. will have a more significant effect than that.
2) I was originally going to use a handle port with 12mm instead of 9mm plywood and a correspondingly larger handle size. Then I saw Phaedras's setup and thought it looked really clean, decided to go with separate handles/ports. To hit each of your points...
2a) Good call... I'll add a horizontal strip between handle/port to help with bracing.
2b) Not a problem for me (I'm using DSP for highpass)
2c) I figured larger port area in my case = less air velocity = less port noise.
2d) Don't really have an answer for that; do you expect my port construction to cause the speaker to undergo 'diagonal excursion' because of the port being close to the speaker?
2) I was originally going to use a handle port with 12mm instead of 9mm plywood and a correspondingly larger handle size. Then I saw Phaedras's setup and thought it looked really clean, decided to go with separate handles/ports. To hit each of your points...
2a) Good call... I'll add a horizontal strip between handle/port to help with bracing.
2b) Not a problem for me (I'm using DSP for highpass)
2c) I figured larger port area in my case = less air velocity = less port noise.
2d) Don't really have an answer for that; do you expect my port construction to cause the speaker to undergo 'diagonal excursion' because of the port being close to the speaker?