|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#981 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Copenhagen
|
Haha awesome idea! Do you have an estimate of how many boominators there are built so far (how many of these could we expect to Roskilde Festival)? Either way, we should be able to find a solution to the connecting problem. Could also be cool to make a boominator wall/tower of some sort. I saw ThokN do it in a park in copenhagen with 2 other boominators.
Anyway... I was actually in Silvan today to ask for elasticity plastic sealant and the guy who helped me recommended this (I took a pic when I came home): ![]() Also went for this: ![]() Most concerned about the sealant. Is this gonna work on top of the boominator? Cause if not I'm gonna return it. Cost me 105 DKK a tube
|
|
|
|
#982 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
|
Exactly what I use I just couldn't remember the product number. It's Bostik 2640 and the needed primer is Bostik 5075.
|
|
|
|
#983 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Copenhagen
|
Primer is needed also?
|
|
|
|
#984 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
|
|
|
|
|
#985 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Copenhagen
|
I guess I oversaw it. Sorry. But yes - I read on the package now that a primer must be added also. Have to buy that tomorrow I guess. If you should estimate how much would be used - would it be more than 1 tube of each for each boominator?
|
|
|
|
#986 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
|
No. One should be enough, also for inside sealing and piezo dampening.
|
|
|
|
#987 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
|
Quote:
)
|
|
|
|
|
#988 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Copenhagen
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
#989 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
|
Quote:
1234 = Connect 1 to 2, and 3 to 4 for 12V ... connect amp6b from 1 and 4 1234 = 1:Bat 1+ / 2:Bat 2+ / 3:Bat 1- / 4:Bat 2- 1234 = Connect 2 to 3 for 24V ... connect amp9b from 1 and 4 If you chose a 3 position switch then the center position will be both amps off. Not sure how you'll realize the speaker output switching though, if at all. |
|
|
|
|
#990 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Copenhagen
|
Quote:
If we imagine that both speaker out from Amp6 and Amp9 was going into the same shared cables for the speakers, will that burn the non-operating amp or something? Or will it be okay to do? Because that would be even simpler. I've decided to go with a 4-pole 2-way switch, and a seprate 2-pole single-way switch for the power. The power switch will be placed before the amp-switch. The reason for this is that it would otherwise not be possible to have the solar-cell connected at all times. If we used a single 4-pole 3-way switch, then the solar-cell would only be connected when the switch is set to Amp6(12V)-mode. This would also mean that we would get the benefit of the sun whenever the boominator is turned off (middle-position of the switch). Last edited by ThokN; 2nd April 2011 at 02:33 PM. |
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 5 (2 members and 3 guests) | |
| barbfa, Arty |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.10480 seconds (62.85% PHP - 37.15% MySQL) with 11 queries |