Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 28th March 2011, 04:26 PM   #961
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Copenhagen
Saturnus, is there any reason why the cutout for the HP-10Ws are 220 mm when the mounting cutout (for outside mounting outside the cabinet) is 231 mm ?
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th March 2011, 05:38 PM   #962
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
Saturnus, is there any reason why the cutout for the HP-10Ws are 220 mm when the mounting cutout (for outside mounting outside the cabinet) is 231 mm ?
The cut-out is made to fit inside mounting not outside mounting.
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th March 2011, 07:58 PM   #963
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Copenhagen
I know this question has been asked before. When are the magnets supposed to pull towards each other? I tested it by placing one speaker on the table facing down and placed the other speaker on top of that facing up so the speakers touched. I peeled off the the label and cleaned the back of the magnet with some alcohol, but still the magnets are repelling each other. I tried turning on the amp and put some music on but it's not different (this was with one speaker on each channel).

Is there something I'm doing wrong or haven't done yet?
Thanks for replying so fast, Saturnus.
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th March 2011, 08:46 PM   #964
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Wierd. Don't think it matters though.
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th March 2011, 09:27 PM   #965
diyAudio Member
 
Phaedras's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Kolding, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
I know this question has been asked before. When are the magnets supposed to pull towards each other? I tested it by placing one speaker on the table facing down and placed the other speaker on top of that facing up so the speakers touched. I peeled off the the label and cleaned the back of the magnet with some alcohol, but still the magnets are repelling each other. I tried turning on the amp and put some music on but it's not different (this was with one speaker on each channel).

Is there something I'm doing wrong or haven't done yet?
Thanks for replying so fast, Saturnus.
I experienced the exact same thing.. The drivers wernt repelling each other very much, but there was definately no attraction between them..
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th March 2011, 10:10 PM   #966
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
I might chalk it down to the same design changes that made it shorter. Shouldn't matter too much. It just means that the magnetic field is better concentrated, so it's actually evidence of better build quality.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th March 2011, 07:54 PM   #967
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Copenhagen
I received my solar panel today. I actually bought one from 24volt.eu. Gran who owns the company had one left at his storage in the back apparently. Shipping was kind of expensive though but I still ended up paying a lot less thatn I would in Denmark.

Anyway. Regarding the mounting of the solar panel itself:

1. Can it be broken by drunk camp members if I remove the aluminium frame and glass cover and they maybe sit or stand on top of the solar cells?
2. Chances are that there is gonna be spilled beer and other stuff on it too. Is it then possible for the system to short circuit?
3. Is the panel itself glued onto the plywood? - If yes, which glue would be suitable for the task?

Thanks for the great feedback
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th March 2011, 10:05 PM   #968
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
Anyway. Regarding the mounting of the solar panel itself:

1. Can it be broken by drunk camp members if I remove the aluminium frame and glass cover and they maybe sit or stand on top of the solar cells?
2. Chances are that there is gonna be spilled beer and other stuff on it too. Is it then possible for the system to short circuit?
3. Is the panel itself glued onto the plywood? - If yes, which glue would be suitable for the task?

Thanks for the great feedback
If you got the amorphous panel. The glass itself is the panel and is made tempered glass. That doesn't mean it's unbreakable though. If you "glue" it to the plywood (primed beforehand) with a high elasticity plastic sealant (p dansk: elastisk byggefugemasse) then the sealant will absorb bumps and hits, and at the same time make it waterproof. You can naturally still smash it with a few good blows from a hammer directly on the panel. But the combination of plywood, elastic sealant and glass on top is really incredibly solid.

It's very important NOT to use silicone sealant (p dansk: silikonefugemasse) as these contains acids that will dissolve the silicone layer that is the actual solar cells on the glass.
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st March 2011, 07:52 AM   #969
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Copenhagen
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
If you got the amorphous panel. The glass itself is the panel and is made tempered glass. That doesn't mean it's unbreakable though. If you "glue" it to the plywood (primed beforehand) with a high elasticity plastic sealant (p dansk: elastisk byggefugemasse) then the sealant will absorb bumps and hits, and at the same time make it waterproof. You can naturally still smash it with a few good blows from a hammer directly on the panel. But the combination of plywood, elastic sealant and glass on top is really incredibly solid.

It's very important NOT to use silicone sealant (p dansk: silikonefugemasse) as these contains acids that will dissolve the silicone layer that is the actual solar cells on the glass.
Very useful information! It is the amorphous panel. It just looks like you removed the glass on the original boominator where the 4 solar panels you used at that time just where glued on top of the plywood.

Anyway. I would probably have to tell people not to dance and stand on it. How thick a layer of that elasticity plastic sealant should be between the panel and the ply? And do I smear it ALL over the surface?
  Reply With Quote
Old 31st March 2011, 08:09 AM   #970
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
Very useful information! It is the amorphous panel. It just looks like you removed the glass on the original boominator where the 4 solar panels you used at that time just where glued on top of the plywood.

Anyway. I would probably have to tell people not to dance and stand on it. How thick a layer of that elasticity plastic sealant should be between the panel and the ply? And do I smear it ALL over the surface?
Those on the original Boominator are CIGS panels with a glass fiber backing and encapsulated in polycarbonate (same material as a CD) developed for microsatelittes to be sent into orbit.

It should be ok that people occasionally stand or dance on it. What to look out for is scratches, long uniform scratches makes a breaking point in the glass so it's more prone to cracking (just like an iPhone4, btw), so if someone has stood on top of it and there grit on the glass, it's best to clean with a wet cloth and not just wipe it off.

About 1mm thickness should be more than enough. And yes, the entire surface must be coated. Ask in your local hardware store how to apply it but basically you need a toothed putty knife (dansk: tandspartel) to apply it, and then smoth it with a regular putty knife. You can get putty knives that have tooths on one side and is straight on the other.

Last edited by Saturnus; 31st March 2011 at 08:17 AM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 02:12 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2