Maybe an FAQ somewhere where people with the knowledge can post answers to the common questions that are asked? (In a way where Saturnus is given proper credits of course
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Maybe an FAQ somewhere where people with the knowledge can post answers to the common questions that are asked? (In a way where Saturnus is given proper credits of course
Probably best as a feature on the Facebook page.
A thoughrough assembly instruction is being written but it'll have to wait a while until I can get all the parts myself so I can take photos while doing it. And it will be a locked pdf document that you can download for pay (probably EUR10/USD15).
I'd like to know this too, and maybe also why you actually need two?
You have 1 customer. You deserve some recognition for all your hard work
There's 3 cables in the jack. One is usually black(or white) that is left, one is usually red that is right, and the last one is the free wire, that is ground.
Yeah, I understand that it has ground but the actual signal is sent through the black and red cables.
So the final answer is that it requires 2 input trafo's?
Okey, I got some small questions I need to get answered before I start building my box and assembling everything tomorrow.
What glue should I use when mounting the driver to the middlebracket? Wood glue?
Is the position of the reflex port important, or can I put it on for example on one side where the drivers are?
Thanks!
What glue should I use when mounting the driver to the middlebracket? Wood glue?
Is the position of the reflex port important, or can I put it on for example on one side where the drivers are?
Thanks!
Not wood glue. Plastic metal glue (ask your hardware store).
The reflex port? You mean the unified handle/port? then yes, it does matter a lot where it is placed and what shape it has. If you cannot place it as intended then you might be better off making slot port at the top and bottom of the ends but man, that would be problematic to design in a way that would be easy to make.
What might the reason be that you can't live with the correct handles/ports?
Since I'm building a half boominator and I'm gonna have it standing tall, a reflex port at the bottom is far from ideal. So I was thinking of having one reflex on each side instead. Or only one on one side. I'm gonna paint the whole thing as a Super Mario tube, the green ones in the 8-bit version, that's why I'm a bit picky on the placement
Woops my bad. I meant if Rubennn could send me his dimentions of his Roskilde Boominator from 2010 that he has presented in his slideshow
Never commented on this and I'm sorry for that. There is a half boominator sketchup drawing of the thing. Search "half boominator" on google and you'll find it.
You need Google Sketchup to view it. You should also design your own electronics compartment as the one I made has cutouts for my electronics
I just bought these on/off switches at Elextra.dk and got them sent so I didn't get to ask the an employee in the physical shop how to connect these. But I thought that on/off switches had 2 poles and that you're supposed to solder the plus-wire to each pole. This switch however has 4 poles.
Do I just connect the the big poles (which is "ON") to the wire like illustrated or something different? I don't want to make something wrong when it comes to electronics
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Do I just connect the the big poles (which is "ON") to the wire like illustrated or something different? I don't want to make something wrong when it comes to electronics
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It's just a double 2-pole. And it's a rocker switch, so it's not that hard to figure out. There's no connection between the two sides so what you're suggesting won't work.
You connect the plus from the battery to one of the poles on one side and plus to the amp on the other pole on the same side. It doesn't matter which goes where if they're just both on the same side.
You can then choose whether you want to do the same with minus just on e the other side. I would but you don't have to.
You connect the plus from the battery to one of the poles on one side and plus to the amp on the other pole on the same side. It doesn't matter which goes where if they're just both on the same side.
You can then choose whether you want to do the same with minus just on e the other side. I would but you don't have to.
Hi
I have been reading this thread for a while now, and read all of it, and me and my camp think we know what to do.
We will not follow the boominator design, but we ordered a AMP6 Basic, which is currently under construction, the only thing we really need to figure out is which units to use in the box.
Our plan is to have 4 10" units and 4 piezo tweeters on one side. The reason for this is how we plan on using the box in the camp, which will be mounted on a cart from a Harald Nyborg.
But since the P.audio HP-10W is no where to come by now, and the Goldwood GW-1058 is only sold in USA, which we won't attempt because of DK customs.
Do you have any other suggestions for units we can use in our setup?
Our budget is max 2400 for 10" units and tweeters, and we maybe thought of something like this?
Hartke 3-10XL8 XL 10 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
We know the festival is closing in, so we maybe cannot find the ideal units, but preferably something close and not to expensive.
In advance, thank you for your help.
I have been reading this thread for a while now, and read all of it, and me and my camp think we know what to do.
We will not follow the boominator design, but we ordered a AMP6 Basic, which is currently under construction, the only thing we really need to figure out is which units to use in the box.
Our plan is to have 4 10" units and 4 piezo tweeters on one side. The reason for this is how we plan on using the box in the camp, which will be mounted on a cart from a Harald Nyborg.
But since the P.audio HP-10W is no where to come by now, and the Goldwood GW-1058 is only sold in USA, which we won't attempt because of DK customs.
Do you have any other suggestions for units we can use in our setup?
Our budget is max 2400 for 10" units and tweeters, and we maybe thought of something like this?
Hartke 3-10XL8 XL 10 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
We know the festival is closing in, so we maybe cannot find the ideal units, but preferably something close and not to expensive.
In advance, thank you for your help.
As I've said repeatedly. It is not a good idea to mount them on one side when the purpose is outdoors use. You will not get more output on the side "facing" the crowd and you will get worse performance.
Why not? Just buy them through shopUSA.com or myUS.com, they will handle the customs for you.
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I missed the part about not getting more output on the side facing the crowd, but still.
Any recommendations regarding speakers, since we cannot get hold of the best suitable before Roskilde?
We know that we might not get ideal speakers, but we are okay with something that is atleast decent.
Otherwise we are just planning to look through the stores, and find some 10" PA speakers we think are good, like the ones I linked to before.
Further, we are planning to use two car batteries for power, and yes we know this not not ideal, but we can get them for free, and that helps out our budget ALOT.
Thanks for your help
Saturnus:
We prefer to buy them through an DK or EU dealers, since none of us have ever used such services before, and we wan't to be 100% sure, that we have the speakerunits on time, and preferably atleast 1 week in advance.
This is also caused by the fact that the money spent on this project will be paid by the entire camp, which is why we wan't to be sure, that we have a working stereo when Roskilde starts.
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Well, technically you will get more output. But you have to filter it away.
Sound wraps around speakers as you know. Which is why you can hear bass behind a speaker but almost no high frequencies.
In a room the sound that is wrapped around the speaker is reflected by the walls so you get a linear response.
Outside where there are no walls to reflect the sound that sound is in principle lost. So in order to get a linear response you have to insert a filter that starts very low and filters away the appearant added output of mid and high range. Otherwise the sound will be very thin with lacking bass and exaggerated higher mid/high range.
By placing speakers on both sides the wrap around effect works on both sides so it in principle works like the walls in a room and thereby giving a linear response from both sides without the need to filter away high frequencies.
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That makes perfect sense, never thought of it that way.
Will try to convince me camp buddies, so we can build it in the same way as the boominator.
But that still leaves the unit question.
We would use HP-10W, if we could get our hands on them, but people are just not willing to try and order them from the US, since we cannot be sure about shipping time and such.
So, is there no real recommendations for units, instead of the two mentioned?
If not, we will just try to do our best in finding replacements somewhere in DK or EU, that is within our budget, but i would prefer a recommendation from here, since it seems that you guys know what you are talking about.