The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

thanks brummie, have you a link to their website?
also in a basic layman's term, what will be the noticeable bad sound difference and how and what makes the hp10ws and its alternatives sufficient?

HP10IT is what you want (interteknik changed the name this year for some stupid reason).... Home | Speakers Intertechnik

You'll be lucky to get any for a while..... Boominator builders have bought them all......
My order arrived within 7 days after ordering so dispatch and delivery is very fast.......
If you use piezo tweeters, monocor are available in the UK and the p-audio pht-407n is available from Blue Arran....
Crossover parts if you need them from Europe audio....
Europe Audio - Home page
Happy building
BJ
 
thanks guys, i think i may have found some basslites, or at least one, i will hunt the other one out, lighter could be the way to go really if im lugging it on a bicycle trailer full of juggling equipment things will start to get heavy. so PHT407 is the match up for basslites.

looking at the amp 6, im hoping i will be able to solder that no problems, does it come with a map/instructions?
alosngside that im guessing i will just need a on/off switch, volume control, and rca input sockets which i can mount up on the outside some place.

unless you guys on here can find a problem with either of these amps

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TA2020-T-Amp-Stereo-Amplifier-20WX2/dp/B0093KZP94/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_1

SMSL SA-S1 - Tripath TA2020 20W*2 Audio Stereo Class-T: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

thanks
 
thanks guys, i think i may have found some basslites, or at least one, i will hunt the other one out, lighter could be the way to go really if im lugging it on a bicycle trailer full of juggling equipment things will start to get heavy. so PHT407 is the match up for basslites.

looking at the amp 6, im hoping i will be able to solder that no problems, does it come with a map/instructions?
alosngside that im guessing i will just need a on/off switch, volume control, and rca input sockets which i can mount up on the outside some place.

unless you guys on here can find a problem with either of these amps

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TA2020-T-Amp-Stereo-Amplifier-20WX2/dp/B0093KZP94/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ce_1

SMSL SA-S1 - Tripath TA2020 20W*2 Audio Stereo Class-T: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

thanks

AMP6 build instructions are downloadable from 41hz site, you can check them out before you buy.... My experience has been rubbish, dunno what I did wrong cos everything looks ok but it doesn't work and I can't troubleshoot. I think the chip is shot but I don't know why....
BJ
 
Hi. The GW1058 drivers have been updated to accommodate higher Xlim (maximum cone excursion limit). It's the bump on the back.

Solution is pretty straight forward and simple. You just route out that bump or cut a hole big enough in each of the blocks of wood between the magnets and center brace. Routing it out is far the best option though.

The GW1058 should then fit with grills between baffles and drivers with about 1mm too much which is compressed in assembly. So minimal compression of the sealing gasket just like for the HP10Ws.

How again, I have now done all woodwork, but I now seem to be having the opposite issue. We doing the same "stacking", I now have a few mm between woofers and front, and not sidepanels and top as before, meaning that the cut-out for the higher Xlim must be to much?
If I started gluing with this cap, then woofers wouldn't be compressed at all, and for everything to fight tightly, the only thing I can "adjust" is bending the two fronts.

If I put in place two leftover cut-outs, equivalating that I only routed out one side of the woofers, then the gap of 1mm seem to fit your description.

What should I do?

Edit: I'm 99% sure that trying to assemble with parts being cut-out at previously descriped won't work, and I really can't see what I did wrong :-/
 
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Hi 7moore7 ! Which cells you planing to use? Im thinking to go the same route for my build. Just trying to find the right BMS to go with it. Does it have to be balancing one? Is it ok to connect solar panel directly to it, or do i need solar charge controller also?
Best luck with your project!

I'm not sure what kind of balancer it will require yet. For car batteries you don't need one the way the charging system works, but they're not drained fully in that application.

I'm sure some of the electric RC car sites will have more on this; I think they build these things all the time.

On another note, My Amp6 Basic came in last night! Now I need to get some better soldering equipment. Not sure how nice of an Iron to get because I'm not sure how often I will use it in the future. This is gonna take me awhile because it's really my first time, haha!

Ordering the GW-1058 10's tonight if I can find a store with them in stock.
 
How again, I have now done all woodwork, but I now seem to be having the opposite issue. We doing the same "stacking", I now have a few mm between woofers and front, and not sidepanels and top as before, meaning that the cut-out for the higher Xlim must be to much?
If I started gluing with this cap, then woofers wouldn't be compressed at all, and for everything to fight tightly, the only thing I can "adjust" is bending the two fronts.

If I put in place two leftover cut-outs, equivalating that I only routed out one side of the woofers, then the gap of 1mm seem to fit your description.

What should I do?

Edit: I'm 99% sure that trying to assemble with parts being cut-out at previously descriped won't work, and I really can't see what I did wrong :-/

Not to despair. Fix it by putting a strip of sealing tape that you use for sealing doors and window between baffle and grill. Should fix the problem.

Maybe the wood isn't exactly 12mm? Sometimes it's only 11.4-11.6mm, that would account for 1-1.5mm missing.
 
I have a bunch of questions that I didn't really see an answer to searching this massive thread, but sorry if it has been answered!

First, I was curious of everyone's wiring and charging set ups. I plan on having a DC input jack with a separate switch to turn the amp on/off. When a wall source is plugged in, this source powers the amp AND charges the battery, but when unplugged, the amp is powered by the battery. This seems common and I wonder how others have accomplished this. Can you just hook the amp/solar panels/battery charger to the battery so that when the wall source is plugged in, it charges AND powers the amp? Or do you have to have some switch or automatic detection circuit to disconnect the load from the battery when charging?

Second, in the OP you said you have two 8V solar panels (so 16V - diode drop) connected to and charging the battery indefinitely and that this is fine. What is the safe voltage/current charge range for continuous charging? I believe the cheap solar panels I have are 3x 5V and totaling 500ma'ish (so 15V - diode drop .6V). Also using a 12V 15AH sealed lead acid battery.

Third, has anyone implemented an automatic low voltage cutoff circuit to prevent overdischarge, and if so, how did you do it?

Finally, I think it would be cool to have a radio connection. Throwing in a car head unit seems like the easier solution - aux, usb, radio, controls, etc - but would suck a ton of power and would be very inefficient. Is there a radio device that could plug into an aux port? Or a device similar to a car stereo interface, but consumes less power?

Thanks in advance
 
Hi 7moore7 ! Which cells you planing to use? Im thinking to go the same route for my build. Just trying to find the right BMS to go with it. Does it have to be balancing one? Is it ok to connect solar panel directly to it, or do i need solar charge controller also?
Best luck with your project!

I just found this... I know I've seen him discuss them before, but here is a quote from Saturnus from 41hz.com:

"I could make a long long list of lifepo4 batteries advantages over any other battery technology but there's no point. They are superior in every way except on energy density. Note that I also regard them as cheaper than any other battery type including SLAs for while they might still be more expensive to buy, they also last 10 times longer and outperform all other batteries on every parameter.

You don't need special chargers. You can use a standard charger but you will only get around 80% of the potential performance out of them. To get the full performance you need a special charger. However, they will work to almost 100% of their potential when used directly in combination with a solar panel without any charge management.

Note that fully charged battery voltage with a special charger is 14.6V and nominal working voltage over 90% of it's cycle life is 12V-13.2V. (emphasis by 7moore7)

To make a drop-in replacement of an SLA. You need a battery with built-in battery management. Please note that it is this battery management that limits the performance of the battery. Generally lifepo4 batteries are sold in SLA standard sizes with identical physical dimensions to that of it's SLA equivalent. But are also sold as cells. DO NOT USE raw cells without a battery management PCB"

So it appears that if building your own, you need battery management. If using a car battery it can be a drop in replacement at 80% of the potential. Weight and performance reasons are why I use them in vehicles; I imagine the weight to be even more beneficial to mobile equipment.
 
Is there a radio device that could plug into an aux port? Or a device similar to a car stereo interface, but consumes less power?

Yup, it's called a phone.

Almost all phones on the market with the exception of iphones have FM tuner built-in. And most newer android phones can do USB hosting as well, so you can play directly from a USB stick (naturally iphones can't do this either).
 
Yup, it's called a phone.

Almost all phones on the market with the exception of iphones have FM tuner built-in. And most newer android phones can do USB hosting as well, so you can play directly from a USB stick (naturally iphones can't do this either).

I have an iphone :( This makes sense though. I guess just make sure I have the music needed for the night on my phone beforehand rather than implementing a radio receiver and sacrificing battery life. The reason I was asking is that I think all of the FM tuner apps for iphone run based off data connection and many of the places where I'd be using this, I have no service/data.
 
I have an iphone :( This makes sense though. I guess just make sure I have the music needed for the night on my phone beforehand rather than implementing a radio receiver and sacrificing battery life. The reason I was asking is that I think all of the FM tuner apps for iphone run based off data connection and many of the places where I'd be using this, I have no service/data.

I'm sure a 5 minute search on ebay will turn up something cheaper/better than my "I feel lucky"-google attempt

Mini Portable Wire Controlled Pocket FM Radio with Strap Earphone | eBay
 
Got a question of desperate character :)

My boominator which has served me for 2 Roskilde festivals now has started behaving odd. After modding a box related issues the following started happening:

Whenever i turn up my amplifier to max (or close to max) a sound sounding like cardboard put between bike wheels is appearing. The sound only appears as a deep bass is kicking in, but it is rather dominant and extremely disturbing. I have tried disconnecting the powers for my motorola piezoes, and i have disconnected the batteries and connected the amp directly to a power outlet. To me it sounds like something is moving inside the box, but i have checked the insides completely and i have found nothing. It sounds the sound is comming from the cones of the hp10w. I know this may be difficult to help me with, but any approach to what i could try would be much much appreciated and gladly honored with some beers on this years Roskilde Festival :)
 
Thank you very much for the reply as always :)

I Just tried that - could not see any holes/flaws :/ - Maybe i should add the following to how my setup is looking right now. (i have practically disassembled all i can to find the error)

The bassreflex tubes are taken out. I did this so i could enter the box without breaking it appart.

I drilled a small hole in my middle compartment so air is leaking from the box through that hole. None of these actions seems to have made the problem worse or better though.

It should also be noted that the problem seems to be a problem for both the left and the right side. :/ - The problem only occurs while playing music with alot of deep bass at a relatively high volume.

Could the speakers have "blown"? - i am using a ta2020 amp, and i have tried replacing it with another ta2020 amp without any change in results
 
The two things that come to mind are 1) something is touching the cone while it's moving on the inside or 2) like you said, possible speaker blown, although what it's doing is slightly weird.

For testing a blown speaker, if you have a multimeter laying around, check resistance across the speaker terminals. Since it is an 8 ohm driver, you should see somewhere around this (usually drivers are actually a bit lower, ie 4 ohm speaker reading 3.2 - 3.4 ohms). If you see a resistance a lot lower than this or a short, possibly blown. Also, separate this speaker's wiring from the other drivers it is connected in parallel with before doing so.

Another test is to put even pressure on the cone and push it in GENTLY and listen to it. If you hear a scratching sound, it's a good sign that the voice coil is damaged and speaker is blown (or partially blown). While, these two aren't exactly 100% conclusive, they usually give a good idea if it's blown or not.


If possible, maybe try those amps with another driver in the same scenario and see if any distortion occurs. I wonder if whatever TA2020 amp you have doesn't handle being cranked to max well and distorts a little.
 
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