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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 7th July 2011, 02:17 PM   #2011
PCFreak is offline PCFreak  Sweden
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Alight i will just wait for them to come back in stock again since i rather order from a safe, swedish site - anyways i could still use an answer for question nr1, is the side rooms ventilated in any way? also my tweeters have 10db more sensitivity then the HP10s, should i use resistors for that? and in that case what value on them should i have?
Also im going for the Amp6b because i know that you know everything about this.
Cheers //Max
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Old 7th July 2011, 02:46 PM   #2012
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Yes, as you can see on the Sketch-Up drawing, the handles double as ports. It's a crucial feature.

Have you already got the PHT-409? Because I wouldn't recommend them. If you must then use the PHT-407N also from P.audio. Otherwise and since you have the time to wait regularly check for the recommended bubble tweeter to become available.
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Old 7th July 2011, 02:53 PM   #2013
PCFreak is offline PCFreak  Sweden
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No i have not started buying yet, the PHT-407N does not excist on Ljudia where i would like to buy from - is there anything you could recommend as tweeter from Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning. Also do note im only going to play dance music in the techno genre(house, hardstyle, dubstep etc.) so maybe theres something suiting that better.
Thanks for taking your time!

Last edited by PCFreak; 7th July 2011 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 7th July 2011, 08:51 PM   #2014
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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I can recommend ljudia.se as retailer. I have bought from them several times and their service is great.

If you must buy from there, why not buy the HP-10W when they become available and connect them together with the QLM-1005 (a piezo tweeter which is a replica of the earlier recommended Motorola KSN-1005). They are only 60 SEK a piece I think. Plus you don't need a crossover when using this replica. The crossover is pretty natural. That's also how the boominator is intensionally designed.
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Old 8th July 2011, 06:33 AM   #2015
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Default Update

Here is an update from my project:

On the case side

1. I have all my wood in perfect cuts (i bought wood from Bauhaus plywood 12mm and they made all the cuts for me besides the circles)
2. Got myself an nice Bosch router Bosch overfræser POF 1200 AE
3. I got a circle attachment from Germany that fit's the Bosch router Fräszirkel für die Oberfräse - Frässchablone | eBay
5. I still have an unanswered question regarding the port. @saturnus did you have a chance to look at this post The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine ?

Electronics

1. As mentioned before my AMP is done although i need to figure out a way to remove the popping sound on power on. I guess some caps ?
2. My batteries are all assembled and tested. 14.6 V 26Ah and a total weight of 2.2kg
3. Texas Instruments solar charge controller (BQ24650) is tested and adjusted to fit my batteries (not with sun but with regular power supply).
4. My SMPS (switch mode power supply) is on it's way again from Texas Instruments, the reason i am going to use this is that the voltage from the battery is to high directly for the amp6basic when it's fully charged and i risk destroying it. TPS54620 8V to 17V, 6A SWIFT? Converter Evaluation Module - TPS54620EVM-374 - TI Tool Folder
5. I still need to figure out what resistor to use with MPT-001, any ideas here ? Disconetto.dk tilbyder IMG STAGE LINE Piezohorn - MPT-001 til den rigtige pris.
6. My HP10W are still not here. Waiting for them to be shipped. Hopefully next week.
7. As mentioned in one of the earlier posts i got my two 10W solar panels as well. They seem to have an big diode between + and -. I have not had the guts to parallel the two panels yet because i wanted to ask if it's ok. I guess the diode is there for protection ? KeryChip WEBSHOP - solceller, solcelleanlæg, tilbehør

/donnib
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Old 8th July 2011, 07:06 AM   #2016
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnib View Post
Here is an update from my project:

/donnib
As for the tweeters, you should either try to listen to them with different resistor values. You might not need a resistor at all as this tweeter is a replica of the Motorola KSN-1005. Start with low values and go up.

You could also measure the capacitance of the piezo and use a formula to calculate the correct resistor value. But I don't know any formula like this, so here I can't help you.

Resistors cost next to nothing and you should consider just connect them loosely in series with the piezo with different values and test what you think sounds best.

On kerychip's website there is a datasheet of the panel with this statement:
Quote:
• Ultra reliable bypass diodes prevent damage
through overheating due to shaded or defective cells
I guess this is what the diode is for
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Old 8th July 2011, 07:51 AM   #2017
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
As for the tweeters, you should either try to listen to them with different resistor values. You might not need a resistor at all as this tweeter is a replica of the Motorola KSN-1005. Start with low values and go up.

You could also measure the capacitance of the piezo and use a formula to calculate the correct resistor value. But I don't know any formula like this, so here I can't help you.

Resistors cost next to nothing and you should consider just connect them loosely in series with the piezo with different values and test what you think sounds best.

On kerychip's website there is a datasheet of the panel with this statement:


I guess this is what the diode is for
Yup thanks. I remember that there was someone talking about using coil. I guess that is not necessary either or ?
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Old 8th July 2011, 08:06 AM   #2018
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
As for the tweeters, you should either try to listen to them with different resistor values. You might not need a resistor at all as this tweeter is a replica of the Motorola KSN-1005. Start with low values and go up.

You could also measure the capacitance of the piezo and use a formula to calculate the correct resistor value. But I don't know any formula like this, so here I can't help you.

Resistors cost next to nothing and you should consider just connect them loosely in series with the piezo with different values and test what you think sounds best.

On kerychip's website there is a datasheet of the panel with this statement:


I guess this is what the diode is for
Yup thanks. I remember that there was someone talking about using coil. I guess that is not necessary either or ?
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Old 8th July 2011, 10:07 AM   #2019
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnib View Post
Yup thanks. I remember that there was someone talking about using coil. I guess that is not necessary either or ?

A crossover inductance coil I guess... No, it's not necessary to put a coil on the HP-10W when using the replica piezo because crossover is very smooth already, and secondly the HP-10W has a smooth rolloff itself so it's not needed. If you were trying to use another piezo with lower frequency range, then it would might be a good idea.
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Old 8th July 2011, 10:46 AM   #2020
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
A crossover inductance coil I guess... No, it's not necessary to put a coil on the HP-10W when using the replica piezo because crossover is very smooth already, and secondly the HP-10W has a smooth rolloff itself so it's not needed. If you were trying to use another piezo with lower frequency range, then it would might be a good idea.
Yep that's what i meant. As i read the resistors should be Metalfilm 2W correct ? What resistance should i start with ?
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