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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 24th June 2011, 01:01 PM   #1951
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
The 4 x 276 x 92 mm is the port/handle assembly. You only need one of these on each end to be full length though. You can cut the other to fit with the port/handle. But at least one of these on each end must be full length or the end piece will vibrate too much at high volumes.

Click the image to open in full size.

So you are saying is that you are using 3 pieces of 276x92mm to allign on the 276x276mm sides to figure out where the middle part should be. Is this it ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
The 1 x 276 x 66 mm is if you make it as originally intended and you mount it inside the top and inside the electronic compartment and is there to make sure the electronics compartment stays at 66mm width during assembly. You don't need it, it's a very good help though. unless you don't mind it being in there. it's no used permanently either.
Ok so it's there to make sure you have the correct size of the middle compartment.

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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Similary the 132mm bit I'm talking about is helper during assembly. 132+12+132mm is 276mm which is the top and bottom pieces. So if you mount the 132mm on the top or bottom, usually top if you assemble it in the correct order then they are just guides to make sure the centerbrace is in the exact middle during assembly. You take them out before you finish.
I guess this is what you mean ?
Click the image to open in full size.

thx for taking the time to explain this.
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Old 24th June 2011, 01:40 PM   #1952
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All correct. Just note that for the port/handle that this has to be 36mm, ie. 3 pieces of ply deep, but only one of the pieces needs to be full length. Which is why only one is show in the sketch-up drawing. I thought it would confuse people if I put both the needed pieces in the drawing without explain that only one needs to be the entire length. The other just needs to be big enough for the hole of the port/handle to fit inside it.
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Old 24th June 2011, 08:04 PM   #1953
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Port size is 3407mm2, defined as 120mm total width and 30mm total height rounded to a 30mm circle in both ends. Length is 35mm, or 3 layered 12mm birchply which actually actual size is 11.65mm.
You wrote this once and together what you say now i am still unsure about the ports. I made a small drawing which might clarify if i understand it correct.

Click the image to open in full size.

Another thing i would like to ask. I have a battery with 14.8V and when it's fully charged and i measure it without load 16.8V which is above the TA2020 chip max voltage. Should i risk and try it ? I am pretty sure the voltage won't be 16.8V with load but i am not sure i would like to risk it or maybe i should use an diode or two to lower the voltage. What is your opinion ?
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Old 24th June 2011, 08:07 PM   #1954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnib View Post
Another thing i would like to ask. I have a battery with 14.8V and when it's fully charged and i measure it without load 16.8V which is above the TA2020 chip max voltage. Should i risk and try it ? I am pretty sure the voltage won't be 16.8V with load but i am not sure i would like to risk it or maybe i should use an diode or two to lower the voltage. What is your opinion ?
What voltage does the charger charge at?
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Old 24th June 2011, 08:23 PM   #1955
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Originally Posted by kristleifur View Post
What voltage does the charger charge at?
Max charge voltage for battery is 16.8V so the charger charges with 16.6V.
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Old 24th June 2011, 08:35 PM   #1956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnib View Post
Max charge voltage for battery is 16.8V so the charger charges with 16.6V.
I'd throw a nice diode on there, drop the voltage a bit. Won't really affect the sound, and you can use it as polarity protection. If you want to squeeze out the last drop of power from a drained battery, you can put a switch to cut the diode out and get that last volt back
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Old 24th June 2011, 11:28 PM   #1957
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Our system is build and playing, and it's DAMM loud (4 Goldwoods), but it seems like the max volume we can play at, before some sort of distortion begins is dependent on which unit we use as input.

Currently I have tried with an iPod Nano 2 Gen, iPhone 4 and my Laptop.
The Nano clearly have the lowest volume and the laptop plays louder than the iPhone.

But for all of them, it seems like they start to distort a little when the player goes up around 80% of the input unit's max volume. Which makes me think that the problem is not the AMP but the input units.

Any idea why this may be, and a solution to fix it?

One thing im not totally sure of is that our Jack cable (3,5) might be to long, i think it's around 5m. Could this be a problem?

But generally speaking, it plays DAMM loud, but would be nice to utilize the system to it's fullest.

Btw. the system is 4 Goldwoods, 4 Piezo's and a AMP6 Basic, which is powered by a Car battery that we have 3 of, where one is for charging cell phones.
Painted with the scotish flag :-)

In advance, thx for the help and see you at Roskilde!
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Old 27th June 2011, 10:29 AM   #1958
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Originally Posted by Arbitrage View Post
Btw. the system is 4 Goldwoods, 4 Piezo's and a AMP6 Basic, which is powered by a Car battery that we have 3 of, where one is for charging cell phones.
What kind of piezos are you using and what kind of resistors?
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Old 27th June 2011, 06:11 PM   #1959
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Default Got some of my stuff today :)

Just wanted to share that i got my 2 x Solar panels today. They are quite big for my taste but hey i knew that already.

Here are some pictures of the panel :
Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

As one can see it's the frame that takes more than 80% of the depth of panel. It's glued with silicone or something similar. I did give it a thought to try to open it but then where should i put it without the frame protecting it hmmmmmm....

My special solar panel switch-mode charger / controller also arrived from Texas Instruments. Here is a pic of it :

Click the image to open in full size.

I also got my 4 x MPT-001. I have to figure out what resistors to use. I guess i better try couple. Where should i start ? 30ohm and start my way up to let's say 200ohm ?

@saturnus did you have a chance to answer the last question i posted about the port ?
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Old 28th June 2011, 11:59 AM   #1960
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Pretty sure Saturnus is at Roskilde Festival, and will be the rest of the week
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