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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 24th June 2011, 10:14 AM   #1941
chief3 is offline chief3  Denmark
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the amp6 seems to have no volume knob.. i suppose it play at the maximum volume all time as it is now ?
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Old 24th June 2011, 10:31 AM   #1942
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
How soon do you need a new TA2020? I have one that's never been used and guarenteed not of the faulty batch (it's one of the originals from Korea, not the newer ones from China).

Otherwise try to contact V-bro either here or on the 41hz forum (which is down at the moment as they update the website this weekend), he has good contact with Jan.
I'm actually in no hurry to get it finished before a certain date, but it's just nice to have it all done and be able to use it. What troubles me aswell is that I might not be able to detach the chip without damaging the rest of the amp. Not sure what I can expect from 41hz...
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Old 24th June 2011, 10:32 AM   #1943
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Originally Posted by chief3 View Post
the amp6 seems to have no volume knob.. i suppose it play at the maximum volume all time as it is now ?
I haven't had a AMP6 yet but yes, I also suppose it plays at maximum volume all the time.

The resistor depends on the piezo you use. If you use the bubble tweeters from ebay, then Phaedras has good experience using the 33 ohm resistor, I believe. The reason why Saturnus recommends the 150 ohm is because he was using the original Zomax HP100 bubble tweeters at the time. They are not made anymore, so it can't be the ones you have unless you bought them off someone specifically telling you it was them.


I say you are in a hurry! Go get started on the assembling. In my experience it takes a long time to make a good stereo. Get to work.
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Old 24th June 2011, 12:27 PM   #1944
chief3 is offline chief3  Denmark
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cool i got both 33 and 100 now ill try out the 33 ones..
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Old 24th June 2011, 12:32 PM   #1945
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Btw, I forgot to mention. While at the saw, if you can get the left over 900mm bit cut into a few pieces of 132mm length then you can use those for guides to mount the centerbrace. Width of these aren't really important, anything down to about 30mm will work just fine.
@Saturnus can you explain a bit what you mean here ?`

Also do you know what the following parts are used for :


4 x 276 x 92 mm
1 x 276 x 66 mm

I guess 2 of the 276 x 92 mm are used for the port between the brace ?

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Old 24th June 2011, 12:32 PM   #1946
chief3 is offline chief3  Denmark
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how would you guys connect the resistor to the cable ? because i have no soldering iron
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Old 24th June 2011, 12:49 PM   #1947
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Originally Posted by chief3 View Post
how would you guys connect the resistor to the cable ? because i have no soldering iron
Get an soldering iron, seriously that would be the best way to do it.

If not i guess this could be used : Dobbelte samlemuffer | Samlemuffer | Diverse elartikler | Greenline.dk
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Old 24th June 2011, 01:00 PM   #1948
Excile is offline Excile  Denmark
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Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
I haven't had a AMP6 yet but yes, I also suppose it plays at maximum volume all the time.
The volume knob is just a potentiometer. So if you buy a 47k ohm logaritmich potentiometer and put it on your input signal, it'll work. It's been a big advantage to do that for me, because i had alot of distortion, when it played max all the time.
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Old 24th June 2011, 01:03 PM   #1949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnib View Post
@Saturnus can you explain a bit what you mean here ?`

Also do you know what the following parts are used for :


4 x 276 x 92 mm
1 x 276 x 66 mm

I guess 2 of the 276 x 92 mm are used for the port between the brace ?
The 4 x 276 x 92 mm is the port/handle assembly. You only need one of these on each end to be full length though. You can cut the other to fit with the port/handle. But at least one of these on each end must be full length or the end piece will vibrate too much at high volumes.

The 1 x 276 x 66 mm is if you make it as originally intended and you mount it inside the top and inside the electronic compartment and is there to make sure the electronics compartment stays at 66mm width during assembly. You don't need it, it's a very good help though. unless you don't mind it being in there. it's no used permanently either.

Similary the 132mm bit I'm talking about is helper during assembly. 132+12+132mm is 276mm which is the top and bottom pieces. So if you mount the 132mm on the top or bottom, usually top if you assemble it in the correct order then they are just guides to make sure the centerbrace is in the exact middle during assembly. You take them out before you finish.
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Old 24th June 2011, 01:07 PM   #1950
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Originally Posted by Excile View Post
The volume knob is just a potentiometer. So if you buy a 47k ohm logaritmich potentiometer and put it on your input signal, it'll work. It's been a big advantage to do that for me, because i had alot of distortion, when it played max all the time.
Just note that when it's done like on the Lepai amp, the resistor reacts with the input capacitor and start to both max out and cut bass very high up at about 75%, 3 o'clock position.
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