The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

P-audio speaker availability

Although you would think that the popularity of the HP10W would be enough to keep it in production..... Perhaps the "cult" status it has developed in the boombox community isn't actually enough in global sales. Saturnus has said before that it is unlikely that p-audio would discontinue this driver but I'm not so sure.... There have been a lot of changes in a few short years and this latest change in model number at interteknik (made in the last couple of months), leaves me wondering if this could be the beginning of the end for the HP10W..... Perhaps this community should try and do something about it, either buy a bulk order from p-audio direct or barrage the company with letters..... What do you reckon? It would be a massive loss to this "movement" if the HP10W became obsolete.....
BJ
 
hey guys. im making a boominator with 8 inch drivers instead of 10 inch (got the 8 inh for almost free and they are pretty good, therefore ;) )

I use the MPT-001 piezos but the drivers go up to about 8000 Hz before they fall. therefor i want to know which inducturs to use and where to place them. If i want them to cut of about 4000 with 6db Slope is it correct to use about 0,3mH ?

I've made a little drawing over where i should place the inductors.


Option Orange or Option Gray. maybe a third option?

if option gray, should i double the mH?
 

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Although you would think that the popularity of the HP10W would be enough to keep it in production..... Perhaps the "cult" status it has developed in the boombox community isn't actually enough in global sales. Saturnus has said before that it is unlikely that p-audio would discontinue this driver but I'm not so sure.... There have been a lot of changes in a few short years and this latest change in model number at interteknik (made in the last couple of months), leaves me wondering if this could be the beginning of the end for the HP10W..... Perhaps this community should try and do something about it, either buy a bulk order from p-audio direct or barrage the company with letters..... What do you reckon? It would be a massive loss to this "movement" if the HP10W became obsolete.....
BJ

Anyone can order them from p.audio in Thailand. Just be aware that it takes a couple of months to produce a batch as they enter the regular production queue. It is extremely unlikely that p.audio will phase out their probably most successful and best selling speaker.
 
Can anyone confirm that the HP10IT that Intertechnik sells is really the HP10W? Trying to find someone that will ship the HP10W to the US. I believe Intertechnik will if this is the correct speaker. Let me know if you know of another source.
Thanks for any help,
Paul

In the US as no importer has the HP10W, you can use the Goldwood GW1058 with the changes that has been described. It's basically a drop in replacement for the North America market (until some importer realizes that they can earn money by selling the HP10W).
 
Hi Saturnus,

I've been searching around about this for a while, but still can't find a decent picture. How did you go about mounting the batteries?

I was thinking of using a few threaded bars and a piece of wood to hold them down, but if there's a better way I'd love to hear it.

Cheers
Chris

PS - the batteries (2 of them) are 151x96x50mm and weigh a couple of kilos each.
 
Since the batteries I have used are standard 12V 7Ah which are 65 +-1mm width, they match the width of the amp case (66mm width), the charger (64mm width), and the recessed dish (65mm width). So as the electronics compartment i 66mm wide it's a simple matter of putting in a few small screws with large screw heads as guides in either of the walls (or both if you like) separating the speaker compartments from the electronic compartment.

Note that I mount batteries from the bottom with just 2 t-nuts, bolts, and washers to hold the battery in place. This is plenty, and allows the electronics compartment to drain itself automatically if someone spills water (or more likely beer) into it.
 
Since the batteries I have used are standard 12V 7Ah which are 65 +-1mm width, they match the width of the amp case (66mm width), the charger (64mm width), and the recessed dish (65mm width). So as the electronics compartment i 66mm wide it's a simple matter of putting in a few small screws with large screw heads as guides in either of the walls (or both if you like) separating the speaker compartments from the electronic compartment.

Note that I mount batteries from the bottom with just 2 t-nuts, bolts, and washers to hold the battery in place. This is plenty, and allows the electronics compartment to drain itself automatically if someone spills water (or more likely beer) into it.

My compartment's 100mm wide (different build entirely, for those reading this), so I'll mount the batteries accordingly.

Cheers
Chris

PS - as the first post is still editable, is it worth adding links to other posts within the thread that explain various aspects of the design?
You've replied to a lot of questions here, just thinking it might be worth having all the answers accessible from one place.
I'd be willing to help with reading through the thread to find the useful bits, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.