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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 15th June 2011, 11:16 AM   #1791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
1. Not really, a charger doesn't like it if you play on it while charging unless the charger is specifically designed to do so though but the power consumtion of the amp in idle makes no difference to the charger.

2. Use the sleep function, or just let it be on at all times. Idle consumption is only 60mA, or 0.7W, and in sleep mode it's 5mA, or 0.06W.
I was more thinking about damaging the amp, but since you did not raise that issue, I guess it's not a problem? My charger has a setting for smaller batteries like the SLA 7,2 Ah batteries i'm using so it probably wont damage it?
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Old 15th June 2011, 11:18 AM   #1792
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Originally Posted by Wubbaz View Post
I was just thinking there might be a solution that made it easier to disconnect stuff from the batteries than soldering.. I might be wrong tho
Soldering is the best wait to connect directly to the battery. You could always have a terminal of some kind soldered to the battery and then you just tighten some screws to secure other cables to the terminal.
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Old 15th June 2011, 12:55 PM   #1793
gmarsh is online now gmarsh  Canada
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I'd go with Saturnus's "common point" method. Using butt splices would work, or what I've done sometimes is crimp-on ring terminals held together with a bolt/nut/lockwasher and wrapped well in electrical tape.

For connecting to SLA batteries themselves, I use proper .187" or .250" quick-disconnect connectors. Around here, you can get a box with a crimper, wire stripper and a bunch of quick connectors / butt splices / etc for about $10 CAD at a hardware store.

Another thing I HIGHLY suggest - hit up an auto parts store and get an inline fuseholder, and fuse the + side of each of your batteries before bringing them to a common point. SLA batteries can output a LOT of current if they're shorted, creating a lot of smoke, fire, flying acid or worse. Something like this:

0-376-90 Pack of 5 Splash-proof In-Line standard blade fuse holders - TheToolBoxShop.com
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Old 15th June 2011, 01:10 PM   #1794
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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I actually had a SLA battery of 9 Ah short circuit on me once for like 0.5 sec. Nothing happend though. I was just in shock :P

Here's what I just did:
Click the image to open in full size.

Now I just connect the farthest one on the picture to everything that's minus and the closest one to everything that's plus, yes? Also: I soldered some shoes with branching ("forgrener" in danish I think) on the wires and put them on the batteries. They are pretty tight on. Now I can solder every other wire directly onto the branching.
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Old 15th June 2011, 01:18 PM   #1795
Wubbaz is offline Wubbaz  Denmark
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Originally Posted by gmarsh View Post
I'd go with Saturnus's "common point" method. Using butt splices would work, or what I've done sometimes is crimp-on ring terminals held together with a bolt/nut/lockwasher and wrapped well in electrical tape.
So basically, just take all wires that go to plus and cramp them into a single butt splice and then do the same with minus? Or did I misunderstand something
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Old 15th June 2011, 01:32 PM   #1796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmarsh View Post
I'd go with Saturnus's "common point" method. Using butt splices would work, or what I've done sometimes is crimp-on ring terminals held together with a bolt/nut/lockwasher and wrapped well in electrical tape.

For connecting to SLA batteries themselves, I use proper .187" or .250" quick-disconnect connectors. Around here, you can get a box with a crimper, wire stripper and a bunch of quick connectors / butt splices / etc for about $10 CAD at a hardware store.

Another thing I HIGHLY suggest - hit up an auto parts store and get an inline fuseholder, and fuse the + side of each of your batteries before bringing them to a common point. SLA batteries can output a LOT of current if they're shorted, creating a lot of smoke, fire, flying acid or worse. Something like this:

0-376-90 Pack of 5 Splash-proof In-Line standard blade fuse holders - TheToolBoxShop.com
Yes. I forgot that part. Fusing is vital. It could save your health or life.
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Old 15th June 2011, 01:56 PM   #1797
Wubbaz is offline Wubbaz  Denmark
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Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
I soldered some shoes with branching ("forgrener" in danish I think) on the wires and put them on the batteries. They are pretty tight on. Now I can solder every other wire directly onto the branching.
Where did you buy those "kabelsko"? They're a clever solution.
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Old 15th June 2011, 02:02 PM   #1798
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Yes. I forgot that part. Fusing is vital. It could save your health or life.
I thought one of the pros by using SLA batteries was that explosion danger was non-existing or at least limited. Maybe I have misunderstood this with it not leaking acid as car batteries can.

I just remember looking at a car battery in T-Hansen with a sticker on it like this:
Click the image to open in full size.

I don't see the same warning on my SLA batteries. It just says "Avoid short circuit".

How long do you think it would take short circuiting the battery before it may explode?

Quote:
Where did you buy those "kabelsko"? They're a clever solution.
Bought them at Brinck Elektronik in Copenhagen. I asked them for the right size for my 9 Ah batteries.
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Old 15th June 2011, 02:05 PM   #1799
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Regarding delivery time on the Goldwood's, we ordered 4 units on the 29th of May, and we have today received them through ShopUSA.

So around 17 days or 13 work days.
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Old 15th June 2011, 02:32 PM   #1800
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Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
I thought one of the pros by using SLA batteries was that explosion danger was non-existing or at least limited.
True. But it will still render your batteries more or less useless, so a fuse is always a good idea.
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