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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 3rd May 2011, 05:12 PM   #1291
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Heeej igen.. Læser og læser i denne her tråd.

Jeg har købt 2 x Tripath TA2020 på ebay. Bare for at have en ekstra.
Jeg tror jeg vil bygge det originale Boominator design. Atlså 4xHP-10W og 4 Piezo.

tingene kan jeg sagtens sætte sammen. MEN hvordan faeeen skal den der kasse samles. Har ingen idé om hvordan man regner volumen ud?

Og hvor tæt skal HP-10W'erne sidde? skal magneterne sidder klods op ad hinanden eller hvordan?
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Old 3rd May 2011, 06:04 PM   #1292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joak0068 View Post
...
Please note. DIYaudio is a strictly english forum.

You can find sketchup drawings, pictures of how it's assembled, and every other information needed in this thread. Please read it from the beginning and mark down the post numbers of interest.
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Old 3rd May 2011, 07:47 PM   #1293
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What kind of wires do you use from battery to amp?

I've read about having charger connected while running the boombox, but I can't remember what the demand is in order to do so?
Bought a Panasonic SLA 12V 7,2Ah, would this battery charger work?

Digital batteriladdare 12 V 4 A - Jula Postorder Online ? Handla på nätet
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Old 3rd May 2011, 08:36 PM   #1294
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Running the battery charger while you are drawing power from the battery is not a good idea for a number of reasons. Wire a switch that when in one position charges the battery and runs the boombox off a mains-powered regulated supply, and when in the other position, the mains power is off and the amp draws power from the battery.

Wiring diagram is attached. Four-pole, dual-throw switch is required, at least the way I did it.

--Buckapound
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File Type: jpg BBxPwr1.jpg (89.8 KB, 603 views)
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Old 3rd May 2011, 09:04 PM   #1295
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If you want a charger to be connected while playing it must be a charger that is specifically specified to do so. If you're in doubt, ask the manufacturer. If you get no straight answer, or it can't then you must do as Buckapound illustrates above.
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Old 3rd May 2011, 09:05 PM   #1296
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Oh that seems complicated... I think I will just discard the idea. However what solution do you have for switching between charging the battery and running the system? Seems complicated to open up the whole top everytime you want to change, or connect a mp3 for example.

Still wondering what kind of cable is used between amp and battery :S
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Old 3rd May 2011, 09:20 PM   #1297
craler is offline craler  Sweden
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I'm planning on making half a boominator, mostly because I want to be able to wear it like a backpack and be really portable. And of course I want to use the HP-10W but since I'm only gonna use two drivers I have to make some decisions.

Either parallel the drivers making them 4ohm and mono or using them in 8ohm and having stereo. What do u guys think is the best choice?

The second choice I have to make is wether I want to have them bi-polar/magnet-to-magnet as Saturnus design, or both drivers at the same side. Won't the stereo be really messed up if I go for #3 in the picture below since I won't hear the L and R side at the same time?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 3rd May 2011, 10:29 PM   #1298
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Originally Posted by daholygoat View Post
Oh that seems complicated... I think I will just discard the idea. However what solution do you have for switching between charging the battery and running the system? Seems complicated to open up the whole top everytime you want to change, or connect a mp3 for example.

Still wondering what kind of cable is used between amp and battery :S
Complicated? Complicated? This is DIY Audio. Everything is complicated! That's why we're here. Every time you figure out something "complicated," you learn something, which I feel is a lot of the appeal of this hobby. People who want it simple, just buy stuff.

If you hook it up as I describe, all you have to do is flip a switch to go between battery and wall power. Or, as Saturnus suggests, you may be able to find a battery charger that can do both.

As far as wire, it's really not critical. Maybe 14-18 gauge stranded wire. You can use really heavy gauge wire, but it would only be for macho pride or something like that, as no matter what, that amp is not going to draw a lot of power, so it won't need a big manly wire.

--Buckapound
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Old 4th May 2011, 12:27 AM   #1299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craler View Post
I'm planning on making half a boominator, mostly because I want to be able to wear it like a backpack and be really portable. And of course I want to use the HP-10W but since I'm only gonna use two drivers I have to make some decisions.

Either parallel the drivers making them 4ohm and mono or using them in 8ohm and having stereo. What do u guys think is the best choice?

The second choice I have to make is wether I want to have them bi-polar/magnet-to-magnet as Saturnus design, or both drivers at the same side. Won't the stereo be really messed up if I go for #3 in the picture below since I won't hear the L and R side at the same time?

Click the image to open in full size.
Hey, I was looking to do something similar a while back, but I didn't manage to get beyond the ideas stage.

I quite like the look of number 3 myself.

If you go for the amp 6, then I guess you could parallel the HP-10w's, and use a single channel to power the HP-10w's, and use a separate channel for the tweeters also in parallel. THis may get a little complex however, as you would need an active crossover, but you could also combine/sum the L&R channels also if you did go for an op-amp based active XO.

Going active should give better sound quality however, and greater efficiency also, as passive filter components reduce efficiency in most cases.
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Old 4th May 2011, 06:41 AM   #1300
craler is offline craler  Sweden
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Originally Posted by MikeHunt79 View Post
Hey, I was looking to do something similar a while back, but I didn't manage to get beyond the ideas stage.

I quite like the look of number 3 myself.

If you go for the amp 6, then I guess you could parallel the HP-10w's, and use a single channel to power the HP-10w's, and use a separate channel for the tweeters also in parallel. THis may get a little complex however, as you would need an active crossover, but you could also combine/sum the L&R channels also if you did go for an op-amp based active XO.

Going active should give better sound quality however, and greater efficiency also, as passive filter components reduce efficiency in most cases.
Let's hope I make it this time

Yeah, if I went with the drivers paralleled I was thinking about summing the L&R. Could you clarify what "op-amp based active XO" means? When using the HP10W and piezos I won't really need a crossover right? Or do you mean when I sum the L&R? Something like this maybe?
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