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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 27th April 2011, 07:40 AM   #1161
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Sounds nice. I'll probably only bring 2 panels like you did. That looks sweet and would be a lot less hassle to get them to fit than with the big panel. Plus it will be a lot more resilient to everything.

I just feel bad that I've spent money on the big panel and its dimensions comprehends me from using the proper boominator design
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Old 27th April 2011, 07:43 AM   #1162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
Sounds nice. I'll probably only bring 2 panels like you did. That looks sweet and would be a lot less hassle to get them to fit than with the big panel. Plus it will be a lot more resilient to everything.

I just feel bad that I've spent money on the big panel and its dimensions comprehends me from using the proper boominator design
Did you buy a router, as recommended? Then it shouldn't be too hard routing out the top to fit the solar panels..

Did you already build your second Boominator?
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Old 27th April 2011, 07:49 AM   #1163
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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No my second boominator is to come, and I'm planning it at the moment. I thought a long time about buying a router and I think I'm gonna buy the one you recommended at elextra.dk for me a time at HIFI4ALL.dk

If it wasn't you then I'm sorry :P But can you confirm if it would do the trick? Also for rounding handles/ports and so on.
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Old 27th April 2011, 07:56 AM   #1164
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Would it be possible to just use the elastic sealant directly on the top of the box and clue the solar panel on?
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Old 27th April 2011, 07:56 AM   #1165
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Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
No my second boominator is to come, and I'm planning it at the moment. I thought a long time about buying a router and I think I'm gonna buy the one you recommended at elextra.dk for me a time at HIFI4ALL.dk

If it wasn't you then I'm sorry :P But can you confirm if it would do the trick? Also for rounding handles/ports and so on.
It was me

Well, imo a router is an invaluable tool for diy woodworking.. Given a little thought when using the router you can do things that would normally require a lot more advanced and expensive equipment.. The router at elextra is great for a beginner diy'er and after a little while you'll realize its the best tool you've ever owned - next to a a regular powerdrill
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Old 27th April 2011, 07:58 AM   #1166
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Originally Posted by DanielClark91 View Post
Would it be possible to just use the elastic sealant directly on the top of the box and clue the solar panel on?
Yes, However, on the panels from Electrozone there's a small box underneath the panel of about 4x4x0,5cm which you'll have to route or chisel out of the top to be able to make it fit

Edit: I used this to glue the panels on, its great and easy to work with: http://www.tec7.dk/produkt-sortiment...ter/tec-7.aspx
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Old 27th April 2011, 08:08 AM   #1167
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Hey Saturnus and everyone else.

Me and my roskilde camp are about to begin the building of our own Boominator, but before start ordering the wrong stuff we got a few questions.

1. Best alternative to the Ebay Piezo speakers from ebay which now is sold out.?

Elextra sells these: Piezo's which i've used in my first boominator and sounds great but they don't have them on stock atm..

I don't know which is recommendable right now - maybe Saturnus will have a take on that..


2. You said your amplifiers Qbox was tuned to 88 herz, what does it mean and how can we do this (if its even important) we are planning to get the preassembled amp6 from 41. HZ

I think you have mixed things together.. The box tuning has nothing to do with the amplifier per se, but has everything to do with how the cabinet and the port is calculated.. You should read the whole thread, as everything is explained almost to details..

3. Should we glue the magnets together or should the box tighten them together if you know what i mean.

Both. If you tweak the Boominators size so that the woofers will reach each other magnet to magnet then you should definately glue them together! If you are not tweaking the size then you should glue the woofers to the centerbracing for a mechanical connection, it won't be 100% as good but the loss of sensitivity will be miniscule..


Best Regards Camp ManhooD
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Old 27th April 2011, 11:09 AM   #1168
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I'll only add to the above that tweaking the size to get the magnets together can doesn't necessarily mean changing the design in any way. You can also mount a 4-5mm thick ring of masonite board/acryllic sheet on the inside of the cabinet. That's what I'd recommend doing. The glueing the magnets directly on the centerbraces is a lot easier though as it doesn't require perfectly making the hole for the magnets in the centerbrace so they match up with the baffle hole. That can be a pain in the **** unless you have CNC machinery
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Old 27th April 2011, 12:31 PM   #1169
ThokN is offline ThokN  Denmark
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I'm still not quite sure about glueing the speakers together...my concern is that we will never be able to get them apart again, which will make it very difficult for us to use them in a future revision of our own boominator. Is it only for structural strength, or something else? Because our speakers are very tightly pressed together by the casing itself, and also held in place by the hole in the centerbrace, although not completely 'closed in' by he hole. The hole is maybe 2-3 wider than the speakermagnets.
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Old 27th April 2011, 12:42 PM   #1170
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Originally Posted by ThokN View Post
I'm still not quite sure about glueing the speakers together...my concern is that we will never be able to get them apart again, which will make it very difficult for us to use them in a future revision of our own boominator. Is it only for structural strength, or something else? Because our speakers are very tightly pressed together by the casing itself, and also held in place by the hole in the centerbrace, although not completely 'closed in' by he hole. The hole is maybe 2-3 wider than the speakermagnets.
That is sort of the whole point. That it will not come apart ever, neither by accident nor on purpose. Not glueing or other wise completely fasten them to the centerbrace is in my opinion a mistake though as that in principle allows for the cabinet to flex over the cross-axis. The ends and electronic compartment naturally pretty much eliminates this possibility already but as the saying goes: "If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing".

Last edited by Saturnus; 27th April 2011 at 01:05 PM.
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