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Old 18th April 2011, 10:06 AM   #1111
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Saturnus, you mentioned a while back that you used "Elastisk byggefugemasse" to mount the solar panel.. Would it be okay to use "Elastisk acryl fugemasse"?
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Old 18th April 2011, 10:16 AM   #1112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedras View Post
Saturnus, you mentioned a while back that you used "Elastisk byggefugemasse" to mount the solar panel.. Would it be okay to use "Elastisk acryl fugemasse"?
Link to product please. It must be unacidic, that's the main issue.
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Old 18th April 2011, 11:06 AM   #1113
Nahaz is offline Nahaz  Sweden
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Just in case the tweeters from ebay dont show up in time, what would be the second best option right now?
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Old 18th April 2011, 02:52 PM   #1114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Link to product please. It must be unacidic, that's the main issue.
I don't have a link to the product.. Bought it in Jem og Fix and they don't have the product on their website.. However, its says that the products is: "Elastisk, opløsningsmiddelfri fugemasse" on it, so i reckon that'd be okay?
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Old 19th April 2011, 07:11 AM   #1115
Nahaz is offline Nahaz  Sweden
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Some more questions have popped up.
I have not been able to find a gallery where you can see how the woofers and grills are attached to the baffles.

1. How do you make the grill+woofer combo airtight when attaching both from the inside? Sealing gasket (tätningslist) between both the grill/baffle and the grill/woofer?
2. Do you drill holes in the grill where the holes on the woofer is?
3. If screws are used from the inside how do you reach the bottom ones once the box is constructed? Do you have to attach the woofers to the baffles before assembling the box?
4. Why is there only 1 additional plywood layer on the inside of the bass ports in the google sketchup drawing when the cutting plan specify 4 pieces (2 on each side resulting in 3x12mm=36 mm depth of the ports). Im guessing the sketchup drawing is incorrect and the correct depth is 36mm (3 layers, 1 side + 2 extra).

If someone who has constructed a boominator could go over the build procedure in the best possible step by step order that would be of great help. I have a bad habit of doing things in the wrong order resulting in greater difficulty than whats needed.

Last edited by Nahaz; 19th April 2011 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 19th April 2011, 07:56 AM   #1116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nahaz View Post
Some more questions have popped up.
I have not been able to find a gallery where you can see how the woofers and grills are attached to the baffles.

1. How do you make the grill+woofer combo airtight when attaching both from the inside? Sealing gasket (tätningslist) between both the grill/baffle and the grill/woofer?

The front of the woofer has a foam sealing gasket and most grills are made with a rubber gasket around the edge.. When its tightened it will be air tight.

2. Do you drill holes in the grill where the holes on the woofer is?

Most grills are ofc filled with holes, its not so hard to get it to fit.

3. If screws are used from the inside how do you reach the bottom ones once the box is constructed? Do you have to attach the woofers to the baffles before assembling the box?

I mounted the speakers on the side baffles before assembling the cabinet, then assembled the bottom and glued the woofers together and then mounted the sides, then assembled the centerbraces with the braces to make the centercompartment and then mounted those in the speaker compartments.. I made the centerbrace a wee bit different as I made is so I could assemble it after the woofers was mounted..

4. Why is there only 1 additional plywood layer on the inside of the bass ports in the google sketchup drawing when the cutting plan specify 4 pieces (2 on each side resulting in 3x12mm=36 mm depth of the ports). Im guessing the sketchup drawing is incorrect and the correct depth is 36mm (3 layers, 1 side + 2 extra).

Don't know about this part as I used regular round ports

If someone who has constructed a boominator could go over the build procedure in the best possible step by step order that would be of great help. I have a bad habit of doing things in the wrong order resulting in greater difficulty than whats needed.

Did it make any sense? Thats just the way I did it, however I did it a bit different than Saturnus and probably others
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Old 19th April 2011, 08:41 AM   #1117
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Hi, first of all I'm amazed to see these projects and homemade boxes. This easter I'm planning to build my very first "boominator", though I havn't thought about building such a big one as the TS. Got linked here from another site so havn't read through all the pages, but got some questions before i start off with the building. And please mind, I'm a newbie so I may be ask stupid questions hehe.

1. In Saturnus' recommended parts, P.audio HP-10W was suggested as woofers. I googled this speaker and it turned out to be a so called broadband 'speaker'. What exactly does broadband speaker mean? Is it a 'speaker' able to play low, mid and high freq?

2. Tweeters are also used, what are these for? Is it to be able to reach the higher frequencies?

3. If I've understood it correctly, 4 woofers and 4 tweeters are used in these builds, 2 on each side. The woofers however are mounted back to back, is there anything in between? Will the woofers not affect eachother?

For my project, I'm planning to use Amp-6 Basic and then choose components based on the amplifier. It will also not be as big as the presented builds, I want it to be fairly light so it can be carried around without too much trouble.Instead, I thought of using 2 woofers and 2 tweeters, not sure whether I should have them on one side or split them to 2 sides? What would give the best sound?

These are the components I'm planning to use:
Woofer: P.audio HP-10T
P.audio HP-10T - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Tweeter: QLM-1005
QLM-1005 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Amplifier: Amp-6 Basic
41Hz Audio:AMP6-BASIC Assembled
Battery: 12V battery, not sure how much Ah is needed, but the more Ah the longer the battery will last I assume?

Please tell me if I should change something with this setup and build I'm planning to make. Appreciate all kind of help, thanks!
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Old 19th April 2011, 08:49 AM   #1118
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I'll only address what Phaedras haven't already answered.

Please note that the sketchup drawing does say in the description that it's not 100% accurate. There are some things left up for interpretation on the builders side.

It's also a point that last piece of the port/handle could have varying length. If for example you use this bit to cut out guides for the brace mounting then it will be around 140mm long leaving only 10mm on both sides, this will make it harder to do the roundover routing on the inside though, so if you don't then it should be 160-180mm long to make sure you have more than enough area for the roundover routing.

Likewise, the piezo cutout will depend on the piezo used, and if you mount it from the back or from the front.

I didn't have time this weekend to make a new, let's call it mark III, sketchup drawing but I'll make it one of the coming days.

My recommendation on the building order is that you finish all the separate parts first. Then mount all the drivers on the baffles and test them again (you should naturally have tested them when you received them to make sure you don't have to send them back). Then assemble the "base" which means top/bottom, electronics compartment, center braces, and ends with finished port/handles. Then mount the baffles. Connect the electronics. Done.

That's the simplified version but as Phaedras already said there are several ways to do this so a set order or building description is not presented before I make a pdf version of it.
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Old 19th April 2011, 09:51 AM   #1119
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BTW, i've decided to go with this product for mounting the solar panels.. It was a bit on the expensive side, but had all the right specifications..

http://tec7.dk/produkt-sortiment/produkter/tec-7.aspx
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Old 19th April 2011, 10:00 AM   #1120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daholygoat View Post
Hi, first of all I'm amazed to see these projects and homemade boxes. This easter I'm planning to build my very first "boominator", though I havn't thought about building such a big one as the TS. Got linked here from another site so havn't read through all the pages, but got some questions before i start off with the building. And please mind, I'm a newbie so I may be ask stupid questions hehe.

1. In Saturnus' recommended parts, P.audio HP-10W was suggested as woofers. I googled this speaker and it turned out to be a so called broadband 'speaker'. What exactly does broadband speaker mean? Is it a 'speaker' able to play low, mid and high freq?

The speaker you've linked to further down is the HP10T which is a fullrange speaker.. The HP10w is a bass/mid woofer.. It plays frequencies up to around ~5khz..

2. Tweeters are also used, what are these for? Is it to be able to reach the higher frequencies?

Correct.

3. If I've understood it correctly, 4 woofers and 4 tweeters are used in these builds, 2 on each side. The woofers however are mounted back to back, is there anything in between? Will the woofers not affect eachother?

The woofers are actually glued together. This has 2 main advantages. 1. it makes the cabinet very rigid. 2. There is a increase of ½db per driver in sensitivity - thereby making it play louder

For my project, I'm planning to use Amp-6 Basic and then choose components based on the amplifier. It will also not be as big as the presented builds, I want it to be fairly light so it can be carried around without too much trouble.Instead, I thought of using 2 woofers and 2 tweeters, not sure whether I should have them on one side or split them to 2 sides? What would give the best sound?

Ill leave Saturnus to do further recommendations as i'm not sure which would be the best pick

These are the components I'm planning to use:
Woofer: P.audio HP-10T
P.audio HP-10T - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning

The speakers used in the Boominator: http://www.ljudia.se/hogtalarelement-s82124/bas-s97514/10-tum-c96816/paudio-hp-10w-p78414/

Tweeter: QLM-1005
QLM-1005 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning
Amplifier: Amp-6 Basic
41Hz Audio:AMP6-BASIC Assembled
Battery: 12V battery, not sure how much Ah is needed, but the more Ah the longer the battery will last I assume?

Most use around 2-3 x 7.2Ah batteries as they fit in the center compartment of the Boominator.. However, you can use whatever battery size you like

Please tell me if I should change something with this setup and build I'm planning to make. Appreciate all kind of help, thanks!

Hope that helped - and lightened Saturnus' Q/A amount
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