Anyone have any tips as to how I can make the little notch after I drill the hole for these speaker terminals? Do I drill a smaller hole first where the notch would be before drilling the larger hole?
If need be I can design another notchless washer in OpenSCAD and print in PLA on my 3D printer. But I kind of like the idea of the notch since one would be twisting fairly hard when tightening the speaker wire.
If need be I can design another notchless washer in OpenSCAD and print in PLA on my 3D printer. But I kind of like the idea of the notch since one would be twisting fairly hard when tightening the speaker wire.
To me it really looks like the connector is expecting a hole with a notch in it. That washer goes behind the back plate and another plastic washer in front of the back plate.
Would you recommend not using the washer with the notch on it? Is the lock small lock washer on the back enough to keep it from twisting when tightening down the speaker cable?
EDIT: nevermind, post was removed/edited.. question answered below.
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Found some cast aluminum plate on ebay the right height, nice thickness and just about the right width at 14". The amp is 13.5" wide including the wood side panels. So this will stick out a quarter inch on each side which seems fine to me -- I can have my brother trim it down later if I want (he's a machinist).
Got two pieces of this for $15 total plus $10 shipping.
Got two pieces of this for $15 total plus $10 shipping.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This corcom filtered / fused / switched IEC AC inlet thing is trippy. Never seen anything like it before.
It has a compartment with 2 fuses (can either be short or long fuses which is nice). And you flip the fuse cartridge one way for 115V and the other for 230V. When you flip for 115V it shorts the two center terminals (of the row of 4) on the backside (inside the case). The outer two terminals, of the row of four, are hot & neutral. The two center terminals don't connect to anything but to each other and only in 115V mode not 230V.
I am not sure what this is for. Confusing me. This corcom ac inlet is much different than the otehr IEC I am used to which has only 1 fuse, not two. Why are both the neutral and hot side both fused? Is the extra fuse in case someone has their wall outlet wired up backwards? (i.e. neutral and hot swapped?) And/or for redundancy / fault tolerance?
I have two pairs of red/black wires going into my antek transformer and operating at 115V AC and they are wired red to red and black to black then soldered to neutral and hot.
How do I hook this all up correctly?
It has a compartment with 2 fuses (can either be short or long fuses which is nice). And you flip the fuse cartridge one way for 115V and the other for 230V. When you flip for 115V it shorts the two center terminals (of the row of 4) on the backside (inside the case). The outer two terminals, of the row of four, are hot & neutral. The two center terminals don't connect to anything but to each other and only in 115V mode not 230V.
I am not sure what this is for. Confusing me. This corcom ac inlet is much different than the otehr IEC I am used to which has only 1 fuse, not two. Why are both the neutral and hot side both fused? Is the extra fuse in case someone has their wall outlet wired up backwards? (i.e. neutral and hot swapped?) And/or for redundancy / fault tolerance?
I have two pairs of red/black wires going into my antek transformer and operating at 115V AC and they are wired red to red and black to black then soldered to neutral and hot.
How do I hook this all up correctly?
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It's this one:
Part number is PEOSSDSCB
ebay url from where I bought it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172103257056
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Part number is PEOSSDSCB
ebay url from where I bought it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172103257056
data sheet http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/418/NG_CD_P-Series_D-637502.pdf
your part cannot handle dual primaries it's the "jumper type" shown in the drawings.
jumpers connection are on SMPS so these terminals/ function are unused on your setup.
the drawing tells you where the hook up's are hot, neutral , ground. (same as your other IEC entry module)
your part cannot handle dual primaries it's the "jumper type" shown in the drawings.
jumpers connection are on SMPS so these terminals/ function are unused on your setup.
the drawing tells you where the hook up's are hot, neutral , ground. (same as your other IEC entry module)
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Since those center two terminals aren't used in my configuration and appear to not be connected to neutral, hot nor protective earth (did a multimeter test), I am going to leave them exposed with no boot over them.
I already have protective earth wire hooked up. Bought some uninsulated terminal connectors (as shown below on outer terminals of top row of four) and soldered on the protective earth wire then bent the sharp ends in a bit (not crimped just bent in a bit to avoid cutting through heat shrink tube), reheated the solder again after that.. then finally insulated with heat shrink tube:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
By the way, what do I do about the extra AC fuse on the neutral wire? Is this going to make my amp not sound as good? Should I throw a 10A fuse on that side and leave the 3A on the hot side? I don't know why this thing fused each side other than as a safety feature in case someone has their home wall receptacle outlet wired backwards. I happen to know all my receptacles are wired correctly since we repaired and tested every receptacle here.
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I think it's actually a thing that covers the entire ac inlet iec device thingy. It was a term AndrewT used recently if I recall and that's why I said it
What I mean is I wouldn't cover those two center pins with heat shrink tubing because they don't do anything at all.
Regarding the "single fuse conversion clip" .. oh I guess there is another cartridge I can buy for this that is single fuse? Would that be beneficial? Or would a 10A fuse on that side suffice? I am concerned about sonic quality. I think I read before on here that even a single fuse in the AC line affects sound quality? Maybe I'm wrong.
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Thanks, if you don't mind, read above again sorry, I updated my post.. Had a another question
Appreciate all your help!
I've had a couple people here say twist one pair of the primaries together and twist the other pair together as well but tighter, then run them in parallel to the IEC AC inlet then join red to red and black to black there.
Then AndrewT says to just twist them all together .. all 4, but he doesn't say how -- a few different ways 4 wires can be twisted together. He says it is better but I don't know why.
Since I hear two different ways to do this, I am confused what to do. What's in most commercial amplifiers? e.g. chipamps etc..
Then AndrewT says to just twist them all together .. all 4, but he doesn't say how -- a few different ways 4 wires can be twisted together. He says it is better but I don't know why.
Since I hear two different ways to do this, I am confused what to do. What's in most commercial amplifiers? e.g. chipamps etc..
It's interesting that you say this because just earlier today I was looking at a lot of example chipamp build via google image and 95% of them just left the wire straight (no twisting).
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