It's unlikely that you will build a bad amp with these chips, but you can easily build one less good than is possible, and not because of not using 'audio grade' capacitors, although it is possible to pick the wrong passives, but simply because of how you wire it up.
There's something to be said for building a bigger amplifier than you need, if only because you might need it later.
Take a look at this thread:- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...mposite-amplifier-achieving-0-0004-thd-n.html. If you read this thread and the others associated with it you will have a clearer understanding of how to get a good result from any of these chips and also get some pointers on component choice.
There's something to be said for building a bigger amplifier than you need, if only because you might need it later.
Take a look at this thread:- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vend...mposite-amplifier-achieving-0-0004-thd-n.html. If you read this thread and the others associated with it you will have a clearer understanding of how to get a good result from any of these chips and also get some pointers on component choice.
I forgot to ask, if I wanted to add a 'mute' function to the LM1875 (x2 - stereo) outputs, what would be the best way?
A temporary switch that kills power to the chips?
A temporary switch in series with the input that kills the input signal?
A temporary switch in series with the output?
Will having one of those tap keys (always on, disconnects when pressed) in series with the input or output cause problems because of the extra components?
A temporary switch that kills power to the chips?
A temporary switch in series with the input that kills the input signal?
A temporary switch in series with the output?
Will having one of those tap keys (always on, disconnects when pressed) in series with the input or output cause problems because of the extra components?
Gilbert's Chips was one of my biggest and most esoteric info dumps!!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/part...-feedback-amplifier-ad830-lt6552-tda856x.html
Even simpler would be the TDA8561Q because it's single ended.
'braxy's "nitro":
View attachment TDA8561Q.pdf
But only if you can use the 1875/2020 style level power (~20W)
Rather than the balanced input, TDA8566
'braxy's "bal nitro" :
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Maybe we should work backwards then.
Tell us the chips you can get and we'll go from there.
You may want to check out the MiniRef, which uses parts that are widely available, including PentaWatt chipamps:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/184165-miniref-schematic-pcb-layout.html
For 20W per channel into 8 ohms, either the LM1875 or TDA2050 should be adequate. If you're OK with lower power (say 10W into 8 ohms), even the counterfeit "TDA2050" chipamps (actually re-marked 10W NEC chipamps) widely available in Indian markets, will work fine in a MiniRef - but you might as well use the authentic TDA2030, still in production and available.
All parts are available locally, and I also have boards and kits available.
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Joined 2006
Beware that the max non clipping power out of those car stereo bridge amps is only 10 or 11 watts into 4 Ohms at 12 volts. Datasheets often spec them them at 14.4 volts and 10% THD to get the higher 20-24 watt ratings into 4 Ohm loads. You could push them for more power using 15 or 16 volts.
Using the LM1875 can get you a clean 25 watts and preclipping distortion specs are better as well. I'd go this route if you can get the ICs.
Using the LM1875 can get you a clean 25 watts and preclipping distortion specs are better as well. I'd go this route if you can get the ICs.
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