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#51 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'll have to aks Jason for a share of that donation.
__________________
If you've always done it like that, then it's probably wrong. (Henry Ford) |
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#52 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
The R1 bottom hole takes the lower end of the Zobel resistor. The R1 top hole takes the copper lead. Make the lead about 12mm long. 4mm below the PCB and 7mm above the PCB. Attach the speaker output cable to the 4mm of copper lead below the PCB. Attach the Zobel resistor to the 7mm of top side copper lead. The Zobel capacitor connects to PCB instead of the speaker terminal block. One leg of the cap connects to the trace of R1 The other leg of the capacitor connects to the Ground trace. That 7mm of copper lead is left long to allow you to bend it to an L shape. The short leg of the L gets soldered to the leadout of the chipamp. Quote:
Quote:
Last edited by AndrewT; 24th March 2012 at 12:51 PM. |
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#53 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Quote:
C5 sets the input high pass filter frequency. 4.7uF may be a bit too big for the matching resistor R5. Decide what F-3dB frequency you want. Determine the C5 value from F-3dB & R5 using the formula F-3dB = 1/2/Pi/R/C. Rearranged to be C5=1/2/Pi/F-3dB/R5 Last edited by AndrewT; 24th March 2012 at 01:06 PM. |
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#54 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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C4 should be chosen so that in normal operation it has virtually zero DC voltage across it and virtually zero AC voltage across it.
Choose C4 value by using the equation C4 >= C5 * Sqrt(2) * [R5+R6] / R4 The bigger you choose for C5, the bigger that C4 becomes. Last edited by AndrewT; 24th March 2012 at 01:15 PM. |
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#55 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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post48.
There are some errors in that layout. |
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#56 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Thank you very much, Andrew, we really appreciate your help. I have almost everything to start working on the assembly process, the speaker protection board I thought had been lost in the mail showed up today. I decided to order some more capacitors for the amplifier PCB's, I ordered Nichicon and Elna Silmic, I have the Nichicon but I'm still waiting on the Silmic, they should be here by monday.
As soon as I start, I will produce good pictures so you won't have to be answering these questions each time someone decides to get a XY LM3886 kit. |
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#57 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Des Moines, IA
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Right on
I have also found that the inner copper core of tv coax cable fits in the pcb holes really well. Last edited by fabricated; 24th March 2012 at 04:40 PM. |
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#58 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Hi:
Here are some pictures of the modification made to the XY LM3886 boards to include the Zobel R+C network, a very clever way of doing it, all credits go to AndrewT who gave me all the instructions and component values. I just hope I got it right...! You can also see the RF filter capacitor on top of the R5 resistor. That is a 0.01uF polyester film capacitor. The resistor used in R1 for the Zobel is a 10 Ohm resistor. The rest are 22K Ohm and 1K Ohm, I just upgraded to 1/2 watt resistors instead of using the microscopic ones that came with the kit. The capacitor located in the speaker output connection is a 0.22uF polypropylene capacitor. The rest of the capacitors (C1, C2, C3, C4 and C5) are missing, I am still waiting for them, they should be here either monday or tuesday. I will post more pictures as soon as I have the boards totally finished. The bare copper wire that goes in the top of R1 location is a piece of 18 AWG solid core wire I got at Radio Shack, it fits the hole perfectly. I know I have to cut it, it is too long now, but I want to finish the boards to see how I am going to solder the speaker + output to it. The soldering in the "shorter L shaped end" that joins the copper wire, resistor and pin #3 of the LM3886 is kind of hard because of the location, one has to be extremely careful not to hit something else with the hot tip of the soldering iron, perhaps it might be a better idea to solder the copper wire to the leg of the LM3886 before installing it in the board. I have included more pictures in the next few posts, I couldn't upload them all in this one. I have more questions, but I'll save them for later, for now, I just want to know I got this right, and again, thank you very much to all of you that have been here sharing your time and your knowledge so generously, specially AndrewT, Pacificblue, Fabricated and all others. |
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#59 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Here, I'm posting more pictures....
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#60 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Here is the rest of the pictures, I had to do it this way because I couldn't upload them all in one post.
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