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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Hello All,
I spend most of my time over on the tube forum, SS just has not been my thing. I am in the process of designing my new reference system. Details have not been ironed out but the system will rough out like this. Tube Phono Preamp, CD, PC sound, Tuner into Tube preamp w/ active 100hz TUBE crossover 12db/octave Linkwitz alignment. The highpass will be split with another tube active Xover and biamped via tube amps to speakers to be determined. The low pass is where my question comes in. Most of my budget is blown on tube amp iron, tubes etc. So I am limited on the budget for the subs and amps. This mean relatively low sensitivity woofers in sealed enclosures. The power needed to drive these will be well beyond SET and even most PP Pentode tube amps so I want to try my hand at a chip amp. I am looking for about 60WPC with a simple gain control nothing else. I would like to wire it Point to Point in keeping with the theme of the rest of the system. So what I am looking for is a simple chip amp schematic that would lend itself to P to P wiring and with cost as the major concern. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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"$35 each. This product is exempt from the $80 minimum order rule, when shipped to an address in the US, due to the fact that it is already packaged to ship as is..
Foster subwoofer plate amplifier. 115W into 4ohms, 80W into 8ohms. 4th order (24dB/octave) low pass adjustable from 50-200Hz. 0-180 degree phase switch, RCA and speaker level inputs, volume control. Unit has a 3rd order (18dB/octave) high pass filter at 29Hz with a Q of 0.707 built into the subwoofer section. Can easily be modified for any Q and cutoff frequency that you want by changing R615, R617, R618, C607, C608 and C609. The amplifier also has a spectral tilt control that is adjusted to give about 10dB of shelving. It can be manually adjusted with a pot on the PCB. See response curves linked below. A drawing of the amplifier and schematic are both linked below. Two of these amplifiers can be bridged together to produce 220W into 8ohms. See the FAQ below for details of bridging and filter modifications." NHT drivers and electronics surplus sale You cannot build anything this powerful for $35. Ted |
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#3 |
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just another
diyAudio Member
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Hi coldcathode, I did a P2P LM3886 using the schematic in BrianGT's Chipamps.com kit. Though you will only get 60W if you are driving a 4 ohm load.. if you are driving 8 Ohms you can safely get 50W.
Tony. edit: I think I spent around $130 AU on the amp... the Transformer was the most expensive part.
__________________
Any intelligence I may appear to have is purely artificial Some of my photos .... Finally getting back to working on my MTM after a 4 year Hiatus. Last edited by wintermute; 30th October 2009 at 01:21 PM. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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http://dogbreath.de/Chipamps/CopperAmp/CopperAmp.html http://dogbreath.de/Chipamps/ThreeResAmp/ThreeResAmp.html Mick Feuerbacher Audio Projects has some excellent step by step instructions with pictures of 3886 point to point amplifier. You should look at Linkwitz website for his version of 3886 too which includes safer input circuit. http://www.linkwitzlab.com/images/graphics/3886pwr.gif Ted |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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ted,
AWESOME links, EXACTLY what I was looking for!!! I in no way want to belittle solid state chip amps but I really do not want to spend much time & effort on these amps. Can you or someone else point out for me all the basic info needed to build one of these? For instance, would 100VA trannys be enough? example 25V @ 4 amp? Bridge rectified I am looking at about 35 Volts? How can I calculate the power requirements assuming a 4ohm load? I can design tube amps all day long but I need some basics on these amps. In the schematic for the copperamp I have a couple questions, if you can answer them for me it would be great. (I am willing to assist SS guys looking to get into tubes) R1 (pot) is used only for volume and sets input inpedance to the source correct? Does it have any effect other than attentuating the signal? Rg what is Rg use for? some sort of input bias? Rf gives feedback? how is that value calculated in relation to load power etc. Rm is a muting resistor and is switch in and out I suppose? Cs The caps are for smoothing the supply and "headroom" I suppose, doe their value have any significance? ie can I raise the value for more "headroom" considering relatively small trannies? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Use 18-0-18 toroid with at least 160 VA rating. 25 volt AC gives too high DC for 4 ohm speakers and will make too much heat on the 3886. I am looking for link for Antek toroids but it seems to have changed. They were one of the best toroid suppliers.
Sorry I do not have enough time and knowledge to cover all of your questions. Again I will remind you that it is not cost effective to build an amplifier. Ted |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Ted,
Thanks but it is also NOT cost effective to build TUBE amps but it's what I do. I guess what I am looking for is a "primer" on chip amps. I will browse thru this forum and see what info I can gather. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Don't overlook class D or T amps for reduced power supply and heat sink cost because of high efficiency. I bought 4 stereo 9 watt per chanel .04% HD at 4 ohm boards that I run from an old ATX power supply. Total deIivered cost was $41. I need several low impedace amplifiers to use for a system using many drivers which I do not want to run in series. Several efficient powered speakers can produce plenty of low distortion sound. I already have two powered subwoofers. Good luck in your adventure. Someday I may go insane and build a high power very low impedance class D amp with digital input.
Ted |
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#9 | |
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just another
diyAudio Member
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Hi ColdCathode,
I'd highly recommend reading at least pages 18-21 of the LM3886 datasheet Page 17 might also be helpfull if you are planning on using the smallest heatsink you can get away with. Rg I'm unsure, I'm even unsure as to whether I had one of these on mine. I mostly used BrianGT's schematic but also took queues off the typical application in the datasheet (which doesn't have this resistor). The datasheet has the info on calculating the feedback resistors (It is the ratio between rf and ri that sets the gain). rm provides the necessary current to turn off the muting fuction (ie it will be muted if left out). If you don't want a mute function simply hard wire the resistor in Cs is a supply bypassing cap. I will quote the following from the datasheet: Quote:
Tony.
__________________
Any intelligence I may appear to have is purely artificial Some of my photos .... Finally getting back to working on my MTM after a 4 year Hiatus. Last edited by wintermute; 31st October 2009 at 01:06 PM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: midwest
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ted4412wilt
I have dealt with Antek located at - http://www.antekinc.com/ jb74 |
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