I read on the mtx website that you get 6 db boost from doubling the subs and 3 db from doubling the power. although i have never heard this before....: http://www.mtxaudio.com/Flash2/volume_displacement.cfm
I always heard 3 db but either way its because of volume displacement it really depends on what subs you are looking at and personal preference.
I always liked the sound from 2 subs cause one just dont cut it for me.
So what subs were you looking at, what is your budget?
I always heard 3 db but either way its because of volume displacement it really depends on what subs you are looking at and personal preference.
I always liked the sound from 2 subs cause one just dont cut it for me.
So what subs were you looking at, what is your budget?
It is a 3db SENSETIVITY gain when you double the drivers. It is a 3db spl gain when you double the power. (quarter space)
The initial sensetivity of the drivers must be taken into account. If you have a 10" sub that has a sensetivity of 85db @1w1m, and two 8" subs with sensetivities of 82db @1w1m, then there is a total sensitivity of 85db @1w1m for either configurations. If the eight inch subs can take say 150watts rms each this means that the 10 inch sub would need an rms power handling of 300watts rms to have roughly the same spl capacity. Keep in mind that at the peaks in the music if the subs are reaching their xmax, or even xmech, they will sound bad or worse, you can blow them apart.....
So you need subs with an xmax that can support the power you want to feed it, while taking the box into consideration as this will also be an important factor.
The initial sensetivity of the drivers must be taken into account. If you have a 10" sub that has a sensetivity of 85db @1w1m, and two 8" subs with sensetivities of 82db @1w1m, then there is a total sensitivity of 85db @1w1m for either configurations. If the eight inch subs can take say 150watts rms each this means that the 10 inch sub would need an rms power handling of 300watts rms to have roughly the same spl capacity. Keep in mind that at the peaks in the music if the subs are reaching their xmax, or even xmech, they will sound bad or worse, you can blow them apart.....
So you need subs with an xmax that can support the power you want to feed it, while taking the box into consideration as this will also be an important factor.
I think there are a few questions I want to ask you before I make a comment as I am an installer and competitor. Are you looking for sound quality or sound pressure? What type of vehicle are you using?(Like a hatchback, sedan, truck, etc.) What type of music? Where are you placing the subs? ( In the rear or the front?) I know hifiger (spelling?) Gave you a technical answer but I want to see if I can help you get the most out of your listening experience.
Two eight inch subs will be close in Sd to a single ten but the ten will still have about 50sqcm of area over them.
If xmax is the same, then the sound capability in extension and spl will be slightly higher for the ten..
Then there is the other factors such as Le which changes the High freq rollof on the subs..
Box considerations will play a role as well and it is neccesary to know what drivers you are considering before suggesting what you can actually do in the car..
If you want to do a ported alignment, you will be driving the subs with more power to reach their full potential then if you were using a sealed alignment. (to a point)
If you have a small sealed box then you will have a higher LF rollof than a large sealed box. This will cut lower frequencies below a point..
The sub will also require more power to reach the same excursion level with no spl gains over a larger sealed box which by nature will require less power.
We will be able to offer more practical advice once we know what drivers you are considering for the application.
Here is a free modelling spreadsheet that can show you the responses and other info on any speaker in a sealed, ported, passive radiator or bandpass design.
http://home20.inet.tele.dk/kou/ubmodel.html
Hope this helps..
If xmax is the same, then the sound capability in extension and spl will be slightly higher for the ten..
Then there is the other factors such as Le which changes the High freq rollof on the subs..
Box considerations will play a role as well and it is neccesary to know what drivers you are considering before suggesting what you can actually do in the car..
If you want to do a ported alignment, you will be driving the subs with more power to reach their full potential then if you were using a sealed alignment. (to a point)
If you have a small sealed box then you will have a higher LF rollof than a large sealed box. This will cut lower frequencies below a point..
The sub will also require more power to reach the same excursion level with no spl gains over a larger sealed box which by nature will require less power.
We will be able to offer more practical advice once we know what drivers you are considering for the application.
Here is a free modelling spreadsheet that can show you the responses and other info on any speaker in a sealed, ported, passive radiator or bandpass design.
http://home20.inet.tele.dk/kou/ubmodel.html
Hope this helps..
Ok first let me apologize for the delay in returning an answer to your question.
Now let's get to what you were saying. You are getting a lot of technical answers but let's get to the reason...the music. You said you listen to cinema music with vocals. I am assuming that this music is very dynamic (i.e. lots of frequency range). So....you need a sound quality set-up that IF you play it loudly at times will give you decent sound pressure. As far as a subwoofer I see a lot of guys leaning toward two 8 inch drivers. I would recommend the one 10 inch driver for various reasons. Such as, you save cargo area, wiring is just a little bit easier, and two eights may be loud but the will have a more difficult time producing lower frequencies than a 10 inch driver....less stress equals longevity not to mention the ability to more accurately produce the dynamics of your music. Next I would suggest a acoustic suspension enclosure (sealed). It gives better woofer control for more accurate reproduction of sound. I would also build it 15-30% larger than specifications to give it a little help with the low end. It wont pose a problem at all. Also you said that it will be in the "dicky" of a hatchback. These vehicles possess excellent ability to use something called "transfer function" which is the ability of the vehicle to actually boost low frequencies so the would negate the need for two eight in drivers. Now to help with a fuller sound, if space is a problem I would try some 6.5 inch 2-way drivers in the kick panels or doors and a tweeter at each A-pillar to help increase stage height. Maybe some matching speakers in the rear for a little and I mean a little rear fill a.k.a. ambience. Tune the system and use the correct crossover points and you will have a system that will make you cry.
I've competed in sound quality contest and done quite well, and I have also studied the vehicles that have beat me and this is a variation on the systems we use. I hope it helps; that's the verdict!
Now let's get to what you were saying. You are getting a lot of technical answers but let's get to the reason...the music. You said you listen to cinema music with vocals. I am assuming that this music is very dynamic (i.e. lots of frequency range). So....you need a sound quality set-up that IF you play it loudly at times will give you decent sound pressure. As far as a subwoofer I see a lot of guys leaning toward two 8 inch drivers. I would recommend the one 10 inch driver for various reasons. Such as, you save cargo area, wiring is just a little bit easier, and two eights may be loud but the will have a more difficult time producing lower frequencies than a 10 inch driver....less stress equals longevity not to mention the ability to more accurately produce the dynamics of your music. Next I would suggest a acoustic suspension enclosure (sealed). It gives better woofer control for more accurate reproduction of sound. I would also build it 15-30% larger than specifications to give it a little help with the low end. It wont pose a problem at all. Also you said that it will be in the "dicky" of a hatchback. These vehicles possess excellent ability to use something called "transfer function" which is the ability of the vehicle to actually boost low frequencies so the would negate the need for two eight in drivers. Now to help with a fuller sound, if space is a problem I would try some 6.5 inch 2-way drivers in the kick panels or doors and a tweeter at each A-pillar to help increase stage height. Maybe some matching speakers in the rear for a little and I mean a little rear fill a.k.a. ambience. Tune the system and use the correct crossover points and you will have a system that will make you cry.
I've competed in sound quality contest and done quite well, and I have also studied the vehicles that have beat me and this is a variation on the systems we use. I hope it helps; that's the verdict!I was about to argue with you that a ten has more sd than two eights..
Then i checked the ascendant audio website to see if they did..
Two assasin eights(374sqcm) have more sd than one assasin ten(326sqcm).
I was wrong....
Personally of you want to get low bass with good sq, get a fifteen.
You will have lots of headroom and it will be easy to get really low sound in the high dynamic peaks of your classical music.
I still havent heard what subs you are thinking about getting..
I suggest buying something from FI if you are in the states.
If you are in Canada, get a sub from mach 5 audio...(they have great tested and true 15" and 18" subs for great prices)
If you are in europe, than i cannot reccomend a thing since i only am falmiliar with european prosound.
Then i checked the ascendant audio website to see if they did..
Two assasin eights(374sqcm) have more sd than one assasin ten(326sqcm).
I was wrong....
Personally of you want to get low bass with good sq, get a fifteen.
You will have lots of headroom and it will be easy to get really low sound in the high dynamic peaks of your classical music.
I still havent heard what subs you are thinking about getting..
I suggest buying something from FI if you are in the states.
If you are in Canada, get a sub from mach 5 audio...(they have great tested and true 15" and 18" subs for great prices)
If you are in europe, than i cannot reccomend a thing since i only am falmiliar with european prosound.
no no, assuming same drivers, same end volume per driver same tuning.
Just going from a single box to two seperates.
I'm interested in sonic differences, not the physical aspect.
Isn't there something about having 2 drivers right next to each other adding some reinforcement to each other ?
And if using 2 separates, is constructive/destructive interference an issue ?
Just going from a single box to two seperates.
I'm interested in sonic differences, not the physical aspect.
Isn't there something about having 2 drivers right next to each other adding some reinforcement to each other ?
And if using 2 separates, is constructive/destructive interference an issue ?
To reply to what hifiger is saying, yes a 15 will hit lower but it will not be as accurate as the 10 which is important to transient response and second it will be overkill in a hatchback unless high spl takes precendent over sq. I would say a compromise would be a 12 but I would still shoot for the 10 since you have a small hatchback.
To reply to mad mutt, you gotta be careful with the 8's facing each other....destructive interference a.k.a. phase issues. Some of the sound may cancel out if the are facing straight at each other. If you aim them at an angle you may be ok.
To reply to mad mutt, you gotta be careful with the 8's facing each other....destructive interference a.k.a. phase issues. Some of the sound may cancel out if the are facing straight at each other.
If you aim them at an angle you may be ok.- Status
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