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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Confirmed it is ten ohm, replaced, no change. I cannot get that channel to stop popping. Even if I pull the rca's out it sits there and pops in a similar manor to dust in a gain knob. Any ideas?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Do you have a scope or some way to trace the signal?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Hi perry. I certainly do I just need a little guidance.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Do you have a clean audio signal (no popping or pulsing) on the terminals or those large capacitors?
Set your scope to 1v/div. Does it do it on both channels?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Only the left channel. Subwoofer shows a little dc bias pushing out slightly when connected.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Compare the signal on the left channel to the signal on the right channel (on their orange capacitors). Do you see pulsing DC at that point on either channel?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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With the Fluke at amp ground, and no rca's, one channel is a tad different at idle with no input.
![]() ![]() As far as what I have to work with, pretty much whatever I need. I just DO NOT repair audio and I need all the counseling I can get. Techtronix 442 is a dual trace, and the TENMA 72-7290 has counter, generator, DMM and PS. I have my Fluke 87 III as well.
Last edited by o. l. t.; 6th May 2010 at 09:46 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Actually q33 just went hot potato on me with a little smoke, but I cut it off almost instantly so it got real hot but I think it is still alive. It's the only one that got hot. No foreseeable reason so can I assume that is the final that was going out and causing the trouble? Nothing else in the row got warm. The amp was only on for about ten seconds total, and I was probing the orange capacitor with my flukes + and the negative connected to the amp ground with the meter on DCv. Unless it has dc bias or something from the fluke, which I doubt.
Last edited by o. l. t.; 6th May 2010 at 09:57 PM. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Look at the signal on the cap. Do you see the same characteristics as you do on the speaker terminals of the defective channel. This is to determine if the channel is being driven with a pulsing signal or if the pulsing is due to something else.
Did you check the output transistors carefully?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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