This is a great idea that isn't . The Valhalla will happily run on a 320V DC supply or battery . As a DC supply has mains ripple that is of small advantage . Here the idea is to charge capacitors with a relay . The Valhalla supposedly never sees the mains . Well if does as the graphs prove . I could totally isolate by not having the - VE direct connected and two extra relays . This has proved the improvements are at a conclusion . Do not try this at home , very dangerous . The discharge curve is to help me calculate the best switching time . I used 253 V so as to have the greatest chance of success . The DC must not go below 295V or about 87% ( 0.87 ) . 10 seconds is correct for my Valhalla , normal Valhalla discharges quicker .
If wondering this was about checking out Linn's claims . I had a Lingo . I suspect before nearly anyone else in the world ? I was never totally convinced about is being better although certainly more refined . My feeling is the hum can be dealt with easily and is a part of a 45 RPM modification worth doing . It must also help 33 1/3 . My No 1 turntable is a Garrard 401 with Nam Aro . This is in Germany . This bit of fun will get the LP12 back into use , I guess anyone can see I wanted to do this for my own use . I have a hunch it will be very OK . Next to make my own chassis I think .
Look how much the Valhalla needs to float . Metal behind it bad . Take that metal to ground for the worse ( like an LP12 ) . Same improved circuit in each ( 220 uF ) .A wood box seems best . LP 12 might do well with a Paxolin ( Phenolic paper ) strut to replace the metal . Still earth the black bolts as usual . 33 1/3 is not so bad because at least the hum is at the same frequency more or less . In 60 Hz countries debatable . Plywood if no Paxolin . Copy the LP12 metal piece . Paxolin chassis would be an excellent idea . Logic turntables tried one . Might rival the new upgrade ?
Very unhappy over my discovery I set about a simple solution . I add other ideas because people pontificated too easily . One of these would be external DC . Mostly it makes it worse ! . When better it is technically dangerous . I would advise a transformer for those wanting this up grade . The problem is simply the LM324 op amp Linn use is unhappy on a two wire PSU . It needs three wires ( + 0 - ) . Neutral and Ground are almost the same wire . This allows very little common mode rejection . Strangely what would be suspected to work makes it worse in most cases . It is Earth ( GROUND ) - Neutral related . DC + no GROUND is a NO-NO ( shame as it is working very well ) .
THE GOOD NEWS .The solution turns out to be very cheap . I am using 12.5 MM x 4 mm nylon stand-offs . This puts valuable extra space between Valhalla and the chassis brace / Valhalla support . Only 3 dB off of what Jay has in an external Valhalla . My 220 uF caps are about 22 mm diameter . Later this week thus will be installed , I will see if larger stand-offs are possible ( longer = better ) .
This is my friends present . It has to be right .
Sorry about photo quality .
Output control gives 66 to 86 V rms red phase ( as did Lingo prototype I was told ) . Yellow and white wires go into the PSU and soldered to R13 .
Red is always on and says 33 1 /3 . Blue in addition 45 .
12 v + does not go to a Valhalla pin . I added it ( 1 mm VERO pin ) . It goes via 130 R to vacated R3 hole . R2 and R3 68 K . These do not get hot . Mostly this is a mod for engineers .
The DIN assists setting up LP12 as it makes removing parts easier .
The 0V is using the unused Valhalla terminal .
Relay runs on - 12 V and + finds 0V on PCB .
Finished . Happy Christmas Malcolm .
Christmas present installed and LVV lift lower fitted to his Ittok ( LVII mk 2 + Troika , still working great ) . It just about clears using the Ittok rubber platform . Mr Ito added a shot that fits a treat . The original died years ago . It clears the weight dial by about 2 mm . Not a problem really .
The new Valhalla sounds better ( 50 % ? perhaps greater ) . Less mechanical and very sweet without being soft . Less one note bass ( Linn chassis resonance circa 25 Hz ) . In fact brighter without harshness . We used 80 V rms 33 1/3 and 90 V rms 45 . It starts at 45 a treat . It is an LP 12 , a better one . Not as good as Linn's Keel upgrade but in that direction . To my ears better than an early Lingo .
The capacitors did force the bottom down a bit . Two wood screws cured that . I am sure there will be ones that fit better . If not make a DC box and house it externally ( cheap and good ) .
The new Valhalla sounds better ( 50 % ? perhaps greater ) . Less mechanical and very sweet without being soft . Less one note bass ( Linn chassis resonance circa 25 Hz ) . In fact brighter without harshness . We used 80 V rms 33 1/3 and 90 V rms 45 . It starts at 45 a treat . It is an LP 12 , a better one . Not as good as Linn's Keel upgrade but in that direction . To my ears better than an early Lingo .
The capacitors did force the bottom down a bit . Two wood screws cured that . I am sure there will be ones that fit better . If not make a DC box and house it externally ( cheap and good ) .
GreenStreet Audio
I must say what is said here I feel unable to endorse . However I see the main things have been done . Fast soft recovery diodes are good because they don't dump RFI back into the mains ( less anyway ) . If Eithernet over mains wasn't around it might be worth the effort . As for their capacitors ( same make I used , i.e . cheap ) having less ripple that is nonsense . The uF determines that . I found 220 uF to be optimum . No mention of floating supply working better . Sad to do a good job then let a wordsmith say how it works .
I must say what is said here I feel unable to endorse . However I see the main things have been done . Fast soft recovery diodes are good because they don't dump RFI back into the mains ( less anyway ) . If Eithernet over mains wasn't around it might be worth the effort . As for their capacitors ( same make I used , i.e . cheap ) having less ripple that is nonsense . The uF determines that . I found 220 uF to be optimum . No mention of floating supply working better . Sad to do a good job then let a wordsmith say how it works .
Now that Im back from the land of wonderful & I might ad cheep coffee.
I thought it time to order the parts for the Valhalla upgrade.
Oh dear.... with a min order of 50 for the caps the total came to £ 94.30p thats without the relay, switch or psu thats a bit steep by any standards for a half dozen or so components.
Jay
I thought it time to order the parts for the Valhalla upgrade.
Oh dear.... with a min order of 50 for the caps the total came to £ 94.30p thats without the relay, switch or psu thats a bit steep by any standards for a half dozen or so components.
Jay
Jay . If Rapid they wouldn't want that . I am busy toady I will do a search when I can .
BTW 220 uF 200 V is acceptable . Linn sometimes used 200 V 47 uF . 250 V gives better life . I think CPC or RS had them in axial as Linn used .
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/alumi...0205620617869616C2673633D592677633D4E4F4E4526
BTW 220 uF 200 V is acceptable . Linn sometimes used 200 V 47 uF . 250 V gives better life . I think CPC or RS had them in axial as Linn used .
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/alumi...0205620617869616C2673633D592677633D4E4F4E4526
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This is a perfect fit for those who have the Valhalla in the standard place . Being radial and the original axial an insulated extension wire is required to one connection per capacitor .
Buy Aluminium Capacitors Al Capacitor KXJ 250V 220uF 16x35.5 Nippon Chemi-Con EKXJ251ELL221MLP1S online from RS for next day delivery.
This relay if buying from them ( the crystals are in multiples of 10 alas ) .
Buy Non-Latching Relays Telecom relay 2c/o 2A, 12Vdc 150mW TE Connectivity MT2-C93402 online from RS for next day delivery.
Rapid PT No
90-1408 4.43 MHz crystal
90-0135 3.2768 MHz crystal
Refer to previous posts for other part numbers and links .
Buy Aluminium Capacitors Al Capacitor KXJ 250V 220uF 16x35.5 Nippon Chemi-Con EKXJ251ELL221MLP1S online from RS for next day delivery.
This relay if buying from them ( the crystals are in multiples of 10 alas ) .
Buy Non-Latching Relays Telecom relay 2c/o 2A, 12Vdc 150mW TE Connectivity MT2-C93402 online from RS for next day delivery.
Rapid PT No
90-1408 4.43 MHz crystal
90-0135 3.2768 MHz crystal
Refer to previous posts for other part numbers and links .
This should do fine . 6.35 mm ( 1/4 inch hole ) . I used a similar one .
Buy Toggle Switches Toggle switch,SP,on-none-mom,solder lug RS 1MS2T1B1M1QNS-5 online from RS for next day delivery.
It even has a monetary position that could be useful for other projects . Centre is off . Cheapest I could find .
This one is on off on .
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7347062/
Also ,
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Taiway-Miniature-Toggle-Switch-SPDT-75-0211
Buy Toggle Switches Toggle switch,SP,on-none-mom,solder lug RS 1MS2T1B1M1QNS-5 online from RS for next day delivery.
It even has a monetary position that could be useful for other projects . Centre is off . Cheapest I could find .
This one is on off on .
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/7347062/
Also ,
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Taiway-Miniature-Toggle-Switch-SPDT-75-0211
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Now a 45 spinner
Imagine how nervous i was when it came time to plug the Valhalla back into the Mains after i had been removing components & adding things like a psu from a Nokia phone !
And it didn't go BANG but just started at 33. When the second switch was engaged it just up & went faster Wow. the 12" 45s that then had the dust blown off & spun up to speed All fine. & it sounds just great.
Their's just one thing the 45 switch used, I found at work is like a small version of the standard Linn switch so hay why not, it even has a led in it, Red.
Q, what would be the safest way to wire this so it comes on when the deck is on 45 ?
Thanks so much Nigel & of course Graham.
I am an even happier old hippy now
Imagine how nervous i was when it came time to plug the Valhalla back into the Mains after i had been removing components & adding things like a psu from a Nokia phone !
And it didn't go BANG but just started at 33. When the second switch was engaged it just up & went faster Wow. the 12" 45s that then had the dust blown off & spun up to speed All fine. & it sounds just great.
Their's just one thing the 45 switch used, I found at work is like a small version of the standard Linn switch so hay why not, it even has a led in it, Red.
Q, what would be the safest way to wire this so it comes on when the deck is on 45 ?
Thanks so much Nigel & of course Graham.
I am an even happier old hippy now
Hard to say , see if I can find data . If someone had one in the UK and near enough to drop by I would be happy to look . To be frank I was a bit shocked how good these improvements sounded . As Malcolm said there is less surface noise , also more precision . More of the master-tape sound , I know that sound and can hear it ( sort of papery quality , scrape flutter ) . Also some of the Linn colouration is gone , alas it shows a very clear one note quality at about 30 Hz ( chassis ) . 80 Vrms suited very well for red phase 33 rpm , we had the Lingo 66 V and 90 V of Valhalla to try . I have an LP 12 I don't use . I am tempted to make it a new chassis . I would retain the motor board and maybe use plywood . It could have a 1.5 mm bonded aluminum top as brace and anchor points ( Bearing , springs and 3 for the mounting board ) . If careful stitch drilling and finishing with a router would be OK . Bond with epoxy . You might add a second skin below .
JAY 1234 . Did you fit the 2 x 220 uF and 180 K to R3 ? My guess is you are so happy to play 45's that the sound of 33 1/3 isn't yet of any great importance ? I think you should notice greater solidity of sound . It will show the difference between recordings more . Especially multi-tracks where the more bounced stuff was degrading , Beatles for example . Try stuff like Pink Floyd or even Earth Wind & Fire and Chicago . 1980's digital won't tell you much . It will sound less drunk . ( LP12's sound a bit that way because the motor is a bit too small ) . A Lenco will sort of beat a LP12 on that .
The great surprise of this experiment was that a balanced supply was worse than standard and a floating one by exactly the same margin better . The Valhalla is off centre .By simple observation anything taking it's 0 V reference from Neutral must be . Worse still is not shifting it to the mid point as lets say a Quad 303 power amp . I have nothing but respect for Valhalla . Nice to say improvement are less than $30 or $10 if being careful . One idea I will try for mine is having the capacitors as paniers either side of the PCB This will allow me to drop the PCB to 15 mm on stand offs . That's worth 3 dB as Valhalla even hates capacitor coupled earth via the physical presence of a grounded metal support . A 15 mm plywood brace might be good with earth/ground to the usual bolt .
If anyone wants setting up advice on LP12 just ask . I got a Boll-cking from Linn when panel beating a spot welded LP12 chassis on the doorstep of 46 George Street Oxford . Get a new chassis and stop doing that . I said swivel which surprised him . Then I said the kid had bought this deck at a bargain price and was so disillusioned . I was using the plate glass window as the reference . In front of the Rep I got out the old Linn straightening bar ( iron gas pipe ) . He wanted to confiscate it , since the glued chassis that isn't required . I think I was proving it was . Talk about being too close to a problem . Using a vernier I got it correct ( 5 minutes work at worse ) . No new LP 12 was correct ( 0.05 mm ? ), that's why the set up changes ( and springs rotate back , go gentle and it won't happen ) . All the decks I did < 1997 are still perfect from the ones I still see that others didn't mess about with . They often need to be raised 0.5 mm .They then bounce perfectly again .
For that student I found a load of second hand parts from upgrades . The deck was an absolute peach . I did the work for nothing as he done what we all do when young and bought a lemon . That was the day I found out most about LP12' s . I still have total respect for the turntable . Little things are right and little things matter most . For me it was a Triumph 3TA 350 cc twin ( 821 UMX registration , 1959 London ex Police with 17 inch rear wheel and small bore carb ) . That's how I learned motorbikes and turntables I think .
Linn were supposed to teach us set up . I was selling them before the more Jesuit days of Linn . OK Ivor is Jewish , still think Jesuit suits the them better . Jimmy Hugues taught me in 10 minutes the difficult stuff . In return I cleaned John Williams Dual idler drive with Servissol and boiling water for him . When selling hi fi getting secondhand stuff like new was an art . Even restoring the cardboard boxes as best one can , not to fool anyone . Just to give some love to things I feel affection for . Servisol foam cleaner and a clothe plus boiling water was favourite .Secondhand Naim NAP 250 would look like a dog with mange . Take the sleeve off . Using washing up liquid diluted to usual strength scrub it with a toothbrush . Dab it dry . Then take Pledge polish . Work it in with a new shoe brush . Better than new after that . Mr Muscles window spray cleans many things .
JAY 1234 . Did you fit the 2 x 220 uF and 180 K to R3 ? My guess is you are so happy to play 45's that the sound of 33 1/3 isn't yet of any great importance ? I think you should notice greater solidity of sound . It will show the difference between recordings more . Especially multi-tracks where the more bounced stuff was degrading , Beatles for example . Try stuff like Pink Floyd or even Earth Wind & Fire and Chicago . 1980's digital won't tell you much . It will sound less drunk . ( LP12's sound a bit that way because the motor is a bit too small ) . A Lenco will sort of beat a LP12 on that .
The great surprise of this experiment was that a balanced supply was worse than standard and a floating one by exactly the same margin better . The Valhalla is off centre .By simple observation anything taking it's 0 V reference from Neutral must be . Worse still is not shifting it to the mid point as lets say a Quad 303 power amp . I have nothing but respect for Valhalla . Nice to say improvement are less than $30 or $10 if being careful . One idea I will try for mine is having the capacitors as paniers either side of the PCB This will allow me to drop the PCB to 15 mm on stand offs . That's worth 3 dB as Valhalla even hates capacitor coupled earth via the physical presence of a grounded metal support . A 15 mm plywood brace might be good with earth/ground to the usual bolt .
If anyone wants setting up advice on LP12 just ask . I got a Boll-cking from Linn when panel beating a spot welded LP12 chassis on the doorstep of 46 George Street Oxford . Get a new chassis and stop doing that . I said swivel which surprised him . Then I said the kid had bought this deck at a bargain price and was so disillusioned . I was using the plate glass window as the reference . In front of the Rep I got out the old Linn straightening bar ( iron gas pipe ) . He wanted to confiscate it , since the glued chassis that isn't required . I think I was proving it was . Talk about being too close to a problem . Using a vernier I got it correct ( 5 minutes work at worse ) . No new LP 12 was correct ( 0.05 mm ? ), that's why the set up changes ( and springs rotate back , go gentle and it won't happen ) . All the decks I did < 1997 are still perfect from the ones I still see that others didn't mess about with . They often need to be raised 0.5 mm .They then bounce perfectly again .
For that student I found a load of second hand parts from upgrades . The deck was an absolute peach . I did the work for nothing as he done what we all do when young and bought a lemon . That was the day I found out most about LP12' s . I still have total respect for the turntable . Little things are right and little things matter most . For me it was a Triumph 3TA 350 cc twin ( 821 UMX registration , 1959 London ex Police with 17 inch rear wheel and small bore carb ) . That's how I learned motorbikes and turntables I think .
Linn were supposed to teach us set up . I was selling them before the more Jesuit days of Linn . OK Ivor is Jewish , still think Jesuit suits the them better . Jimmy Hugues taught me in 10 minutes the difficult stuff . In return I cleaned John Williams Dual idler drive with Servissol and boiling water for him . When selling hi fi getting secondhand stuff like new was an art . Even restoring the cardboard boxes as best one can , not to fool anyone . Just to give some love to things I feel affection for . Servisol foam cleaner and a clothe plus boiling water was favourite .Secondhand Naim NAP 250 would look like a dog with mange . Take the sleeve off . Using washing up liquid diluted to usual strength scrub it with a toothbrush . Dab it dry . Then take Pledge polish . Work it in with a new shoe brush . Better than new after that . Mr Muscles window spray cleans many things .
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Never buy cheap toggle switches. If it isn't C&K, it isn't worth using.
Yes, they're around $10 each. There's a reason for this.
I once bought some that I thought were C&Ks at a good price from a local distributor, turned out they weren't. The $3 saving ended up costing me almost $1000 in product returns.
I've never a had a problem as long as the contacts are silver plated . The saddest thing is sometimes like Cola the excellent clones are better or the company you pay extra for builds in China and says nothing . As Linn said 99 % of the inspection badge is UK made . RS sell good quality generics . I have used a large number of these switches and never had a problem . WD 40 often restores them better than it should . The degradation of silver is universal and due to it being silver . Silver plating is one of the more reliable plating techniques so should be OK . My teacher told of how the Concorde was held back because strain gauges were failing . Fitting a new one was not an easy option as the calibration was different . A decision to go to silver wires cured the problem . When taking the experiment down the wires were black . They still worked as silver is still a good conductor when corroded . I am not sure any other metals oxide is a conductor to this extent . Aluminium oxide is an excellent insulator . I do use CK and at trade prices they are about the same price , $4 maximum .
Rubbish and cheap are not always the same .
E103MD1AV2BE - C & K COMPONENTS - SWITCH, SPDT, R/A, PCB, ON-OFF | Farnell United Kingdom
Rubbish and cheap are not always the same .
E103MD1AV2BE - C & K COMPONENTS - SWITCH, SPDT, R/A, PCB, ON-OFF | Farnell United Kingdom
Its not the switch that part, the psu is still ok.
The fuse did go as well. It was when i was putting it back together into its box, & I connected it up to a spare motor, just to check it was still ok, but it was stalling & wouldn't run.. when i switched it to 45 thats when it went pop.
does that help to diagnose the problem
The fuse did go as well. It was when i was putting it back together into its box, & I connected it up to a spare motor, just to check it was still ok, but it was stalling & wouldn't run.. when i switched it to 45 thats when it went pop.
does that help to diagnose the problem
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