I bought an old mk1 Thorens TD 160 for a few bucks some time ago on a swiss ebay-like site. It came with a well working motor. I applied some cork matte under the top (motor) plate and the arm and platter plate. I built a new case from bamboo, put some RCA outputs and polished the platter. It sounds beautiful with my Denon a Denon DL 110. The arm is the original TP 16. I did not dismount it or change the cables.
What else would you propose? Especialy, what would you propose as a replacement for the original mat?
Here are some pics.
What else would you propose? Especialy, what would you propose as a replacement for the original mat?
Here are some pics.
Attachments
I have a Bottlehead Reduction as a outside preamp... The signal out of the RCAs is directly taken from the cart.
If I have to put a Technics mat on a Thorens, I'll choose this one : Voodoo Rhythm Records — Slip-Mat Voodoo Rhythm Skul Logo!
If I have to put a Technics mat on a Thorens, I'll choose this one : Voodoo Rhythm Records — Slip-Mat Voodoo Rhythm Skul Logo!
Here you can see a upgraded TD160 against his older model the TD124 on the X-Fi show last weekend
Attachments
I have a Bottlehead Reduction as a outside preamp... The signal out of the RCAs is directly taken from the cart.
If I have to put a Technics mat on a Thorens, I'll choose this one : Voodoo Rhythm Records — Slip-Mat Voodoo Rhythm Skul Logo!
Hi,
The Technics 7oz and 17oz rubber mats are the only decent ones I know.
Neither are as good as my ancient hard rubber Disk SE2.2, 1kg, 2.2 lb, 35 oz's.
rgds, sreten.
I've been round the houses trying every sort of mat. IMO rubber is best.
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I used a three-stages "usual" polishing kit you'll easily find at your local hardware shop.
I avoid dust by using it, and cleaning it sometimes
Never seen anything but single stage polishing kits around here. You must have a great hardware store in your neighborhood.
Some folks seem to like cork mats, and they are DIY, so...
The TP16 is a nice tonearm, but sometimes the bearings get sloppy and worth adjusting. You could also consider replacing the arm. The wire in the TP16 is also very nice, and shielded, but some folks rewire them. When I installed RCA jacks on my TD-160 I also separated the tonearm ground wire from the RCA cable, and added a ground post.
If you have re-plinthed, damped the motor plate, and damped the sub-chassis, then you have done the big things. There are additional motor tweaks available, for example thrust bearing kits. I have heard of people "tuning" the RC network feeding the motor, and getting reduced noise spectra as a result.
Beautiful job, especially that plinth.
The TP16 is a nice tonearm, but sometimes the bearings get sloppy and worth adjusting. You could also consider replacing the arm. The wire in the TP16 is also very nice, and shielded, but some folks rewire them. When I installed RCA jacks on my TD-160 I also separated the tonearm ground wire from the RCA cable, and added a ground post.
If you have re-plinthed, damped the motor plate, and damped the sub-chassis, then you have done the big things. There are additional motor tweaks available, for example thrust bearing kits. I have heard of people "tuning" the RC network feeding the motor, and getting reduced noise spectra as a result.
Beautiful job, especially that plinth.
Oh, here are a couple of ideas. I removed the speed change mechanism from my Thorens, I seldom play 45's, can always move the belt manually, and it just seemed like a possible source of vibration.
Also, and I'm not sure I recommend this, but it seemed to me that the top trim plate was buzzing on the motor plate. I removed it. It had been glued down, but there were a lot of voids. I cleaned up the old glue, then glued it down again with silicone adhesive spread very evenly. To remove it, the old glue responded well to heat, then I cleaned it up with acetone. I have heard that some TD-160's have the top trim plate anchored with double-sided tape, so YMMV.
Also, and I'm not sure I recommend this, but it seemed to me that the top trim plate was buzzing on the motor plate. I removed it. It had been glued down, but there were a lot of voids. I cleaned up the old glue, then glued it down again with silicone adhesive spread very evenly. To remove it, the old glue responded well to heat, then I cleaned it up with acetone. I have heard that some TD-160's have the top trim plate anchored with double-sided tape, so YMMV.
Thanks for the feedback. Just a question, what do you mean by "trim plate" ? The entire top plate ?
No, the top plate consists of the steel plate, and a thin trim part glued to it. It's the nice looking part, as opposed to galvanized steel.
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