Astro,
The pump I bought was a Little Giant brand centrifugal, bought from Surplus Center for $14.95. These are no longer available. It is a Fan cooled motor and centrifugal pump.
I'd suggest going to a more robust 12 volt RV water pump. Something like this one:
Bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pressure Diaphragm Pump
This is inexpensive, but pumps water well with more oomph than the little centrifugal I bought. The downside is that it is somewhat noisy. But I would go with a pump like this if I was starting from scratch, and would put it in some type of vented enclosure to try to dampen the noise.
Cheers,
B B
The pump I bought was a Little Giant brand centrifugal, bought from Surplus Center for $14.95. These are no longer available. It is a Fan cooled motor and centrifugal pump.
I'd suggest going to a more robust 12 volt RV water pump. Something like this one:
Bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pressure Diaphragm Pump
This is inexpensive, but pumps water well with more oomph than the little centrifugal I bought. The downside is that it is somewhat noisy. But I would go with a pump like this if I was starting from scratch, and would put it in some type of vented enclosure to try to dampen the noise.
Cheers,
B B
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Just wanted to post this:
I've used my Audio Desk cleaner for several years. I had developed a good cleaning system that included steaming/w/ AI, DWD concentrate as a first attack.
I swayed for the first and only time yesterday, when I chose to clean my new Angus & Julia Stone "Snow" lp without my long held, pre-clean, system.
On side 3, there was a ticking on the entire side. I then when back to my original method and listened again. That ticking was completely removed
I've used my Audio Desk cleaner for several years. I had developed a good cleaning system that included steaming/w/ AI, DWD concentrate as a first attack.
I swayed for the first and only time yesterday, when I chose to clean my new Angus & Julia Stone "Snow" lp without my long held, pre-clean, system.
On side 3, there was a ticking on the entire side. I then when back to my original method and listened again. That ticking was completely removed
What's good about my "first attack" method is, among other things, the ability to actually see what is being removed. On my second attempt, above, I saw a 1/2" long fiber and another, much smaller particle being washed away by my steamer. This is under my under-sink LED lighting. Very Important!
I can only assume, these two things were the culprit.
I can only assume, these two things were the culprit.
I opted to buy one of these, kinda against the DIY spirit but technically it is DIY as someone else built it right 
Vibrato 6 Quart 80KHz Ultrasonic Cleaner from VibratoLLC on Tindie
Vibrato 6 Quart 80KHz Ultrasonic Cleaner from VibratoLLC on Tindie
Nope, haven't tried a picture disc, nor any of the semi-transparent discs I have. Picture discs are made by inserting a printed insert between two clear vinyl outer layers which the grooves are stamped into. Maybe someone else has tried it. I wouldn't think it would be any problem doing so. Perhaps someone has a cheapie clear disc of some sort on which to experiment.
B B
B B
Hello, first time posting. Could you suggest an alternative to the pillow block bearing/ housing for version 3? SDP currently doesn’t have the bearing in stock, and my work schedule makes it tough to get to a machinist to have the bearings pressed into the housing. Having a hard time locating a pre-pressed unit online. Any help would be greatly appreciated!I've had a VPI HW-17 record cleaner for some time, but have always wondered if there was a way that could deliver better cleaning results along with less contact with the vinyl . So, after reading threads here and elsewhere about using ultrasonic cleaners to get the dirt off of vinyl, I thought I'd rig up my own unit.
I started with an ultrasonic cleaner that uses 60 KHz transducers. It was a little harder to find and a little more expensive than the typical 40KHz Chinese-made units, but the higher frequencies theoretically do a better job at cleaning the very small grooves of a record and there is less risk of damaging the vinyl from the cavitation. Those two points are a big advantage of 60khz units over 40khz units.
To rotate the records, I wanted to minimize motion in the cleaning solution. My target was a 4 minute cleaning time for the vinyl surface. Given that about 1/3 of the record is submerged in the solution at any moment, the math told me to find a 5 revolution per HOUR synchronous motor. Synchron makes such motors in almost any rph or rpm you could want. The 5rph motor yields a 12 minute rotation time. My plan is 1 rotation = 1 cleaning cycle.
I fashioned a spindle out of 9/32 W1 drill rod. It was was easy to machine a 1/8" diameter hole in one end of the spindle on my lathe to fit over the motor shaft (1/8" diameter).
The motor and shaft are mounted in place using an electrical connector box and conduit. The arm is mounted to the ultrasonic unit using L-brackets and pipe straps. The setup allows the motor and spindle assembly to be rotated up to load records, and then rotated down into the bath.
My spacers are 4" diameter, 1/2" thick cork rounds. [Oct 2012 note: I have since found different spacers, which are much better: I've ordered these from the UK: 110mm by 105mm tapered cork stoppers - they cover the record label completely and very little of the lead out groove. They are just a touch over 1" thick, which is optimal spacing.
No.37 Natural Cork Stopper 110mm from Just Cork No. 37 Large]
[Dec 2012 Note: I added a sintered bronze bearing and a bearing housing to support the weight of the spindle, records and spacers, and eliminate the bending moment on the motor shaft.]
I'll report back after I clean and play some vinyl. My first batches will use distilled water and isopropyl alcohol at about 7 to 1 [Sep 2012 note: I've since gone to a much lower concentration of isopropyl, about 50 to 1] , with a few drops of Kodak PhotoFlo. This solution, combined with the very slow rotation, will allow the liquid to drain off the vinyl surface very easily.
The cleaner can still be used for any items you'd normally put in an ultrasonic unit. It does a great job on some fairly intricate gold jewelry I've cleaned.
Photos below. Questions and comments welcome.
[Feb 2013 Note: I have built a second, sturdier design using a metal frame and hinge assembly that fits over the top of the Ultrasonic cleaner. Here is a direct link to the description later in this thread:
Version 2 of BB's URC
And here's a direct link to the post with the parts list for Version 2:
BB's URC Version 2 Parts List ]
Feb 2015 Note: I've built a 3rd version, designed to be assembled with fewer tools and be more adaptable to different cleaners. Description, pics, and parts list for Version 3 start here:
BB's URC Version 3
Happy building.
Cheers,
BB
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Hi 3brats,
(Is that username a nod to number of children by chance?)
This is not a demanding application for a bearing, so almost anything you can slap together to support the output shaft connection would be fine. One option to eliminate any machining or press fitting would be to just go with more common ¼" sized components to mate with the motor output shaft, or go to a slightly oversized 5/16" ID bearing in a pillow block if you're using a 9/32 arrangement. I just used 9/32" because I had extras from my prior builds and I wanted to show that it was possible to assemble a true-to-turntable-spindle-dimensions 9/32" setup.
Does that help?
B B
(Is that username a nod to number of children by chance?)
This is not a demanding application for a bearing, so almost anything you can slap together to support the output shaft connection would be fine. One option to eliminate any machining or press fitting would be to just go with more common ¼" sized components to mate with the motor output shaft, or go to a slightly oversized 5/16" ID bearing in a pillow block if you're using a 9/32 arrangement. I just used 9/32" because I had extras from my prior builds and I wanted to show that it was possible to assemble a true-to-turntable-spindle-dimensions 9/32" setup.
Does that help?
B B
Yes, that's a big help. I've already ordered the 9/32" spear shafts, so I'll go with the 5/8. My technical skills and knowledge are very limited, so I appreciate the advice. Also, I went with the HR motor. What length should my D-shaft be? (And yes, my moniker was inspired by my children, who now have brats of their own.)
I received my motor today, and I’m still confused. According to the parts list, I’ll need a 1/4” to 1/4” coupler. But since the motor shaft is 3/8”, I’m thinking I need a 3/8” to 1/4” coupler. Is this the case? Thanks again for your help.
1 micron filter and triton x100
I had a thought last night (always a dangerous thing)....
I picked up the parts for the filter system that one of the posters had built. It uses a 1 micron drop in filter. My question is, would that be too small to allow the triton chemical to pass through. It probably isn't but thought that I would ask anyway.
I'm in the process of putting together my US cleaner... I just have to wait for the coupling adapter... ugh.
I had a thought last night (always a dangerous thing)....
I picked up the parts for the filter system that one of the posters had built. It uses a 1 micron drop in filter. My question is, would that be too small to allow the triton chemical to pass through. It probably isn't but thought that I would ask anyway.
I'm in the process of putting together my US cleaner... I just have to wait for the coupling adapter... ugh.
Lexx,
In a water solution, Triton x-100 molecules travel in clumps called micelles. The typical micelle of Triton molecules will be two orders of magnitude smaller than a 1 micron filter pore diameter. It would be the equivalent of a 1 inch bug walking through a 100 inch doorway. So, I don't think a 1 micron filter will remove Triton from the solution.
Cheers,
B B
In a water solution, Triton x-100 molecules travel in clumps called micelles. The typical micelle of Triton molecules will be two orders of magnitude smaller than a 1 micron filter pore diameter. It would be the equivalent of a 1 inch bug walking through a 100 inch doorway. So, I don't think a 1 micron filter will remove Triton from the solution.
Cheers,
B B
