Restoring and Improving A Thorens TD-124 MKII

New to this group, and also chasing the rabbit on the TD124. Going to make this an "at it's own pace DIY project....

289724d1341115073-restoring-improving-thorens-td-124-mkii-td124.jpg


Serial number is 11,000 something, so guessing I've got a Mk.1

Hi Tonepub. Welcome.

Yes. The photo indicates a mk1.

-Steve
 
A good, heavy energy absorbing plinth will do wonders for the noise floor of this TT

Thanks for the suggestions. Just wanted to post a quick update. The tonearm rest is on its way from David at vintagethorens.com and the anti-skate counterweight is coming from Joel. A lot of home projects have to get done before I can get to any motor upgrades. Yep, count mine as another one of those winter projects I imagine
 
Winter hi-fi projects are the **best** kind, keeps you thoroughly occupied during the winter doldrums.. :D

Motor and main bearing should be well lubricated in the mean time if you plan to run this at all between now and the overhaul.

Main bearing got oiled before I did a one minute test spin. The motor will get lubed before I go any further. of course once I've got the tonearm parts next week I'll just have to give it a listen to satisfy my curiosity.
 
I'll be quite curious to hear about your initial impressions once you get that arm back together.. :D

Will do. By the way, the arm rest came today. It works, but seems there are two versions, one that uses a cylindrical metal fastening plate with a set screw underneath the board. I've discovered I have that metal piece and have now seen photos of my tonearm complete with the arm rest, so know the difference. I gather the one I really need has a white or cream colored upper plastic piece. The big difference though is in how it's fastened. Once I find the right one, that plate goes back on, but for now at least I've got a functioning arm rest. Still waiting for the anti-skate counterweight, coming from Germany.
 
Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Interesting the variations in antique arms. I use a Schick as my daily driver, but also have an SME 3009 Series II (not the improved) on my second TD124 as well as a 3012 clone that is a mix of 3012 Series II and 3012R..(Kit arm, highly recommended) I've had a number of 3009 - all series II and while very similar there are a number of differences depending on vintage. Maddening.. :D
 
Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
One other thing I meant to mention is that it is now several months since I installed a Schopper belt on my TD-124/II and the most apparent difference is a huge reduction in belt noise at 45rpm (I have lots of 12" 45rpm records) compared to any other belt I have so far tried other than the two antique originals, the improvement at 33rpm is less pronounced but is still very significant. No gummy residue either..

Expensive yes, but I feel I can recommend this belt pretty highly based on a couple of hundred hours of use. I bought one for the other table as well but have not installed it as that table is still a work in progress and once done I will put a Schopper belt on it too.

The second best belt IMO is still the Hollywood, FLA belt referenced earlier - at least for 60Hz use. These apparently do not work as well on TT running on 50Hz due to the increased belt tension.
 
One other thing I meant to mention is that it is now several months since I installed a Schopper belt on my TD-124/II and the most apparent difference is a huge reduction in belt noise at 45rpm (I have lots of 12" 45rpm records) compared to any other belt I have so far tried other than the two antique originals, the improvement at 33rpm is less pronounced but is still very significant. No gummy residue either..

Expensive yes, but I feel I can recommend this belt pretty highly based on a couple of hundred hours of use. I bought one for the other table as well but have not installed it as that table is still a work in progress and once done I will put a Schopper belt on it too.

The second best belt IMO is still the Hollywood, FLA belt referenced earlier - at least for 60Hz use. These apparently do not work as well on TT running on 50Hz due to the increased belt tension.

Good information on belts. Say, the reason I was able to discern the differences in arm rests is there's an intact tonearm like mine up on eBay and the guy took a lot of very detailed photos. I don't know if eBay links are allowed, but here's one of the shots that told me all I needed to know. Somehow I doubt the seller's going to mind the photo being shown around!
 

Attachments

  • 585244821_o-1.jpg
    585244821_o-1.jpg
    134.3 KB · Views: 323
I had a "duh" moment this morning. Earlier I'd remarked that I didn't understand why Thorens would supply a plinth that didn't allow for easy access to the levelers. The answer is they didn't. Grabbed the coffee and headed downstairs to take a closer look. You know, I have this sneaking suspicion that if one were to install a set of new rubber decoupling mushrooms, complete with the metal supports, replacing those that are crushed beyond all recognition, as well as those that went MIA and were replaced by thick rubber washers . . . DUH!
 
Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Yeah, there were all sorts of aftermarket plinths for the TD-124, some were OK, and some were considerably less so.

The current plinth is useful for the restoration phase, but will not be very good once you start to use the table. The fact that the adjusters physically touch the plinth significantly reduces the isolation the rubber mushrooms were meant to provide. In any event flimsy vintage plinths do not provide the mass or loss required for really silent operation with one of these tables.

I'd recommend a diy CLD type plinth or a more massive slate plinth like the one I use. There are also some decent new plinth options on eBay for the time/skill challenged.. :D
 
Making a good plinth wouldn't be an issue for me. Getting the 2 gram counterweight for the anti skate, now that's proving to be an issue. Joel's package from Germany came today, without the weights! He put it into a standard envelope with a small foam pouch to contain the weights and put it in the mail. I don't know how the weights got lost because I couldn't see a tear in the envelope, but they clearly punched through the foam pouch. Perhaps someone along the way felt they needed to open the thing. Are gram weights contraband somewhere? Whatever. I'm still without the anti skate. drat.
 
Administrator
Joined 2004
Paid Member
Those empty envelopes are a real bummer, I've had this happen too. There are a number of vendors on eBay who sell generic weights for anti-skating set ups and in a variety of different weights. Might want to check that out.

A couple of weeks ago I received a completely flattened AA lithium cell packed in a first class envelope through the mail. Of course they aren't supposed to be shipped that way (didn't know it was coming by mail) but I was pretty impressed - did not keep it in the house fearing it might do something obnoxious.
 
This is a great idea in the interim.. :D

Hey, are you guys NUTS? Sorry I just had to say that. Really it would be a good interim solution. Joel's already responded though, saying that he figures it was some of the automatics at the post office that caused the problem. Whatever it was, he said he's got another set and will send those, albeit not in a little envelope this time. I have to say not having seen what he's selling (dumb me) I can't say for certain that they're not generics. He's known to be a good go-to guy for parts so I'm hoping.
 
The mushrooms I have seen here in the UK all have been GREY in colour....LIGHT grey.

I suspect that these are not makers parts.

I have never seen one perished and suspect that stock mushrooms are some sort of modified rubber. ... but we don't get the temperature extremes which some of you experience.

We always left these out and bolted the TT to a very solid (slate) plinth. Never had FB problems.
 
The mushrooms I have seen here in the UK all have been GREY in colour....LIGHT grey.

I suspect that these are not makers parts.

I have never seen one perished and suspect that stock mushrooms are some sort of modified rubber. ... but we don't get the temperature extremes which some of you experience.

We always left these out and bolted the TT to a very solid (slate) plinth. Never had FB problems.

Here's a more grayscale accurate photo of one of the mushrooms. While it was purchased north of Phoenix, chances are it spent some time in the Valley Of The Sun. It's quite common for it to be above 115 F. (46 c.) for much of the summer. In a storage locker, well the heat would probably kill you in under an hour!
 

Attachments

  • mushroom CU.JPG
    mushroom CU.JPG
    45.2 KB · Views: 308