I am glad to see that I am not the only one who has had the idea. But I think most idler wheel TT owners are unaware that this practice may be a good idea: I certainly have not seen it described/recommended before. And yet it is such a simple (and beneficial) tweak.
I know that all the other bearings are sleeve bearings, but
In the meantime, though I have changed the bottom centre bearing using the kit provided by jec965, and I must say that that has totally bowled me over and obviated the need to reduce the noise from the idler wheel: my TD124 is now as silent as my SOTA belt-drive was. I cannot recommend it highly enough,particularly now that he has changed the Cork washer for Teflon.
Is that his brass spindle upgrade kit?
no, It is his Bronze spindle kit
look for "Thorens TD-124 Spindle Upgrade Kit- Major" (seller: jec965). But really worth it! But see also the idea of using very fine grit sandpaper to polish the drive train. I was stunned at the difference. Jim's (Jec965) kit was definitely needed (my bottom bearing plate was concave and in need of straightening), but the polish dotted the "i" so to speak.
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Brake magnet
Hi
I am new to this forum and found it right now. I am really impressed of the work you are doing on your Thorens players. I am living in Sweden which is a small country with not so many old Thorens TT:s. But I got hold of a TD 135 some time ago. It is in fairly good shape but the brake magnet is missing. I have tried to find one but that seems to be close to impossible and then I mean in all of Europe. Finding this forum gave me new hopes. So if anybody has a brake magnet to sell please let me know.
- klinge
Hi
I am new to this forum and found it right now. I am really impressed of the work you are doing on your Thorens players. I am living in Sweden which is a small country with not so many old Thorens TT:s. But I got hold of a TD 135 some time ago. It is in fairly good shape but the brake magnet is missing. I have tried to find one but that seems to be close to impossible and then I mean in all of Europe. Finding this forum gave me new hopes. So if anybody has a brake magnet to sell please let me know.
- klinge
kevinr -Yes I know about eBay but have not seen any singel magnet there. There was one recently as part of the remainings of a TD 184. To get that would have cost me just about $140 which I figure is a little too much. I wanted to make a deal with the seller to just send me the magnet to get the postage down that way but the seller never answered my mails so I didn´t go for it.
I believe as you do that it is the same magnet in TD124, TD135 and TD184. Does anybody on the forum know for sure?
And please everybody, if you don´t happen to have an extra magnet yourself alert me if you see any for sale.
I believe as you do that it is the same magnet in TD124, TD135 and TD184. Does anybody on the forum know for sure?
And please everybody, if you don´t happen to have an extra magnet yourself alert me if you see any for sale.
One guy to ask might be Holger at this link:
Analogue Classics
I know he's tinkered with both TD124 and TD135 models....as well as the TD184.
-Steve
Then there is Dennis burke at Technical and General.
Last I heard he was still parting out record players. He might be useful for the odd eddy brake magnet, or not. I think he's better at answering phones than he is with email. Info below.
Technical and General: PO Box 53, Crowborough East Sussex, England TN6 2BY, Tel: 01892 654534, email: technical-and-general@fsmail.net, Dennis Burke, for parts and supplies for older Garrards, Thorens etc.
Newbie with a MK II saying Thanks!
Just a quick note from a newbie here, thanking you all for the detailed information regarding restoration of a Thorens TD-124 MK II. Since I suddenly seem to have one that's functional, serial #63138, with the original motor and second. gen. tonearm, I've got a LOT of reading to do!
Just a quick note from a newbie here, thanking you all for the detailed information regarding restoration of a Thorens TD-124 MK II. Since I suddenly seem to have one that's functional, serial #63138, with the original motor and second. gen. tonearm, I've got a LOT of reading to do!
Welcome to the forum! And welcome to the obsession that is TD-124..
Is yours a very late TD-124 or very early TD-124/II? It's in that near transitional serial number range, but is probably a '124 if I were to guess.
Cream is the 124, gray is the 124/II as a quick way to identify the difference.
What arm is on it, and what sort of plinth is it in? Post pix?
Is yours a very late TD-124 or very early TD-124/II? It's in that near transitional serial number range, but is probably a '124 if I were to guess.
Cream is the 124, gray is the 124/II as a quick way to identify the difference.
What arm is on it, and what sort of plinth is it in? Post pix?
Hi kevinkr - This is a TD-124/II, gray, with the original motor. I'm learning as I go, but I've read about the "Pabst" motor and clearly I've got the original, not the Pabst.
The plinth is a joke. Apparently someone removed the turntable along with the mounting board, then dropped it into some plinth they just had handy. At least it protected the works until my friend in Arizona spotted it in a thrift store and bought it for me (think the price of a Big Mac).
A few weeks back I was at his place, broke it down for safe transport, and brought it back to Kansas City. I took photos of it as I broke it down, and some more today as I cobbled something together to play one track on it. No more until I get into the motor obviously. Photos coming right up, once I do a little resizing.
The plinth is a joke. Apparently someone removed the turntable along with the mounting board, then dropped it into some plinth they just had handy. At least it protected the works until my friend in Arizona spotted it in a thrift store and bought it for me (think the price of a Big Mac).
A few weeks back I was at his place, broke it down for safe transport, and brought it back to Kansas City. I took photos of it as I broke it down, and some more today as I cobbled something together to play one track on it. No more until I get into the motor obviously. Photos coming right up, once I do a little resizing.
The "Arizona" TD 124 photos
OK, here's what I know is missing on this find. (1) the arm rest; (2) the anti-skate weight; (3) the rubber bushing for one of the levelers; (4) likely a proper stylus for the un-marked Shure cartridge. I had a spare stylus for one of my Shure MK IIIs that came with a Dual, and as luck would have it, the thing fit, so that let me to a test drive.
OK, here's what I know is missing on this find. (1) the arm rest; (2) the anti-skate weight; (3) the rubber bushing for one of the levelers; (4) likely a proper stylus for the un-marked Shure cartridge. I had a spare stylus for one of my Shure MK IIIs that came with a Dual, and as luck would have it, the thing fit, so that let me to a test drive.
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Hi Missouricatman,
Looks very mint, and will be great when fully restored. The TD-124/II (and 124) were sold sans plinth, and arm, usually with undrilled arm board.
The plinth you have is undoubtedly original and one of the common versions out there. It is not as terrible as you think - but is a candidate for replacement with a nice slate plinth or CLD based plinth. There are a number of plinths sold on eBay that would be a definite upgrade..
The rubber mushrooms under the leveling knobs should be replaced as should the bushings supporting the motor, since you have a TD-124/II you need a kit with six bushings. I specifically would recommend going to Schopper for a replacement belt, the mushrooms and motor bushings.. Jec965 on eBay sells a great motor bearing kit - replacement is easy, just remember to oil impregnate the bearings first.
Use straight 20wt oil for lubrication, what I have found works best so far is Three In One Electric Motor Oil 20 SAE.. (See earlier posts) Look also at the discussion about rebuilding main bearings, and various cautions.. Great bearing.
Be glad you do not have the replacement Papst motor, it is generally inferior in performance to the E50 unless powered by a 3 phase drive such as the Siemens Micromaster MM410 or similar.. (Should be very good with 3 phase drive, may try this some day if I can get my hands on one.)
This is the later Thorens arm, not sure that it ever had anti-skate, but in any event it is nothing special. (Not really bad either) Depending on budget, plinth and other concerns you have eventually want to consider a 12" (sometimes referred to as a 16" arm back in the day) such as the Schick I am using. Vinylengine should have the specifics on your arm. Something like an AT-33 series LOMC should be a good match on this arm, avoid high compliance carts due to the significant arm mass.
Something you probably already know - you have a great friend. He scored you a near exemplary example of the TD-124/II, and as you are probably aware these command pretty high prices on eBay and elsewhere these days. You've got the heart of a first class vinyl playback setup, with some work the performance can be exceptional. I'm am pretty confident based on exposure that my set up can hold its own against some very expensive competition.
Looks very mint, and will be great when fully restored. The TD-124/II (and 124) were sold sans plinth, and arm, usually with undrilled arm board.
The plinth you have is undoubtedly original and one of the common versions out there. It is not as terrible as you think - but is a candidate for replacement with a nice slate plinth or CLD based plinth. There are a number of plinths sold on eBay that would be a definite upgrade..
The rubber mushrooms under the leveling knobs should be replaced as should the bushings supporting the motor, since you have a TD-124/II you need a kit with six bushings. I specifically would recommend going to Schopper for a replacement belt, the mushrooms and motor bushings.. Jec965 on eBay sells a great motor bearing kit - replacement is easy, just remember to oil impregnate the bearings first.
Use straight 20wt oil for lubrication, what I have found works best so far is Three In One Electric Motor Oil 20 SAE.. (See earlier posts) Look also at the discussion about rebuilding main bearings, and various cautions.. Great bearing.
Be glad you do not have the replacement Papst motor, it is generally inferior in performance to the E50 unless powered by a 3 phase drive such as the Siemens Micromaster MM410 or similar.. (Should be very good with 3 phase drive, may try this some day if I can get my hands on one.)
This is the later Thorens arm, not sure that it ever had anti-skate, but in any event it is nothing special. (Not really bad either) Depending on budget, plinth and other concerns you have eventually want to consider a 12" (sometimes referred to as a 16" arm back in the day) such as the Schick I am using. Vinylengine should have the specifics on your arm. Something like an AT-33 series LOMC should be a good match on this arm, avoid high compliance carts due to the significant arm mass.
Something you probably already know - you have a great friend.
He scored you a near exemplary example of the TD-124/II, and as you are probably aware these command pretty high prices on eBay and elsewhere these days. You've got the heart of a first class vinyl playback setup, with some work the performance can be exceptional. I'm am pretty confident based on exposure that my set up can hold its own against some very expensive competition.
Hi kevinkr. Yes, after a little more digging, I discovered the plinth I have is original. Odd that they'd put something out that pretty much makes accessing the adjustable feet impossible. I have some woodworking skills, not to mention a neighbor who's capable of making cabinets, so my guess is we'll be working something out to replace it. Same goes for a plinth for my Dual 1219.
I've seen what Schopper's got as well as Jec965 and agree that's probably the best way to go. This arm does have anti-skate, used a counterweight (I believe two one gram weights) on a nylon string. Everything for the anti-skate is there, just not the string and counterweight, of course. (see attached photo) I pulled the specs on the arm from VinylEngine yesterday. I agree there are much better arms out there, but until I get past issues that keep me from actually putting the turntable into service, it'll do the job. Thanks for all the info.
I've seen what Schopper's got as well as Jec965 and agree that's probably the best way to go. This arm does have anti-skate, used a counterweight (I believe two one gram weights) on a nylon string. Everything for the anti-skate is there, just not the string and counterweight, of course. (see attached photo) I pulled the specs on the arm from VinylEngine yesterday. I agree there are much better arms out there, but until I get past issues that keep me from actually putting the turntable into service, it'll do the job. Thanks for all the info.
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TD 135 Thanks for the help
Thanks for your advices Kevin and Steve. Steve - I got a brake magnet at ebay Germany to a very good price and never had to contact the second person you suggested. I put it in place but to my dissapointment it did not do much difference. So I did as Kevin told me which was to by a new drive belt from Schopper. Pretty expensive but very fast delivery. And Kevin you were quite right I can set the correct speed now.
I have not done anything further to the player and it will probably rest until fall. My plan is to get it in perfect shape during the winter and I guess I will be back to you with some more questions then.
Klinge
Thanks for your advices Kevin and Steve. Steve - I got a brake magnet at ebay Germany to a very good price and never had to contact the second person you suggested. I put it in place but to my dissapointment it did not do much difference. So I did as Kevin told me which was to by a new drive belt from Schopper. Pretty expensive but very fast delivery. And Kevin you were quite right I can set the correct speed now.
I have not done anything further to the player and it will probably rest until fall. My plan is to get it in perfect shape during the winter and I guess I will be back to you with some more questions then.
Klinge
A good, heavy energy absorbing plinth will do wonders for the noise floor of this TT. Mine is in a 4 layer slate plinth and is pretty quiet overall. The mechanism is never silent, but the noise floor is usually dominated by tracing noise and cutter rumble. My last experience with idler drive was not in this league.
Have fun along the way, and there are certainly plenty of good arms out there for the eventual day when you want to upgrade.
I can also confirm that as long as you compensate for the significant magnetic attraction most any MC will work fine with the cast iron platter. (SPU and DL-103D)
I'm glad that the belt did the trick. I've had quite a lot of issues getting my TD-124s to run at the right speed, mine want to run a bit fast once fully warmed up if not set up just right.
