Hi guys,
I've been lent a Denon TT and some good records to listen to and now I want my own TT, for occasional use (99% of my records are CDs).
The Denon living at home right now: http://www.ls3-5a-forum.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=vynile;action=display;num=1234166630
I've got one vintage TT for free, a Toshiba SR-300C. The cartridge is a Shure M91ED and the small handle to pull the stylus is broken. Anyway it's working (the cartridge on the Denon).
Global state is not so good.
http://audio-heritage.jp/AUREX/player/sr-300.html
First I want to service it as much as possible even if I have to remove all. Is it wise to glue with super-glue the cover?
For the wood... it's cheap 0.5mm particle wood with vinyl or such cover like wood vener. I wish they put wood there...
I need to source at least a belt, anyone? And maybe some other things? Oil? Bearings?
about the cartridge I may choose something for less then 50€ or more if "a real bargain" and I've found right now in order of price :
Shure's stylus @ Andersons Music
Audio Technica AT95E
Sumiko Oyster
The Shure is a bit too "noisy" and not foot tapping or invloving I find. I want to be moved by the music, not just hear it even if on cartridge may be not so good as some specs.
I'm aslo open to ways to tune or modify it if needed.
Thanks!
Matthieu
I've been lent a Denon TT and some good records to listen to and now I want my own TT, for occasional use (99% of my records are CDs).
The Denon living at home right now: http://www.ls3-5a-forum.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=vynile;action=display;num=1234166630
I've got one vintage TT for free, a Toshiba SR-300C. The cartridge is a Shure M91ED and the small handle to pull the stylus is broken. Anyway it's working (the cartridge on the Denon).
Global state is not so good.
http://audio-heritage.jp/AUREX/player/sr-300.html
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
First I want to service it as much as possible even if I have to remove all. Is it wise to glue with super-glue the cover?
For the wood... it's cheap 0.5mm particle wood with vinyl or such cover like wood vener. I wish they put wood there...
I need to source at least a belt, anyone? And maybe some other things? Oil? Bearings?
about the cartridge I may choose something for less then 50€ or more if "a real bargain" and I've found right now in order of price :
Shure's stylus @ Andersons Music
Audio Technica AT95E
Sumiko Oyster
The Shure is a bit too "noisy" and not foot tapping or invloving I find. I want to be moved by the music, not just hear it even if on cartridge may be not so good as some specs.
I'm aslo open to ways to tune or modify it if needed.
Thanks!
Matthieu
Hi Ricardo,
I don't want to save for a better one I just want to be able to play some LP when someone bring me one home, no purchase of LP will be done only if given or no if a record is more sold
Only !
Unfortunately the platter does not want to be taken off, something block it from under. Or I am to shy pulling it... Maybe I need to open the TT from under but this is very hard to do: how to put this up-side down? There is the arm! or maybe on the side...
That's my next mission with play check on axis of the arm.
Matthieu
Sorry just understand the DL160 is not a TT but a cartridge... So I may go for a new stylus and later a definitve DL160
I don't want to save for a better one I just want to be able to play some LP when someone bring me one home, no purchase of LP will be done only if given or no if a record is more sold
Only !Unfortunately the platter does not want to be taken off, something block it from under. Or I am to shy pulling it... Maybe I need to open the TT from under but this is very hard to do: how to put this up-side down? There is the arm! or maybe on the side...
That's my next mission with play check on axis of the arm.
Matthieu
Sorry just understand the DL160 is not a TT but a cartridge...
So I may go for a new stylus and later a definitve DL160
here we go... for this less than average stuff...
An AT95E is on the way, and a belt.
That felt off the bottom. Seems new and maybe it was there by mistake.
An AT95E is on the way, and a belt.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
That felt off the bottom. Seems new and maybe it was there by mistake.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks in very good shape.
Oil the bearing, use dumping bitumen under the platter (It also adds some mass... benefic for bass reproduction).
The arm looks allright and maube you can set VTA using the top and under screws... verify if you can lower the arm base. (VTA is needed to fine tune the cart output).
As per the belt, measure the initial one and look for tape recorders belts.. easy to find and inexpensive. (Use chalc powder on the new belt to eliminate grease and enable slip).
IMO DL160 is incomparably better than the AT.
Ricardo
PS:
Nice dismantling work.
Oil the bearing, use dumping bitumen under the platter (It also adds some mass... benefic for bass reproduction).
The arm looks allright and maube you can set VTA using the top and under screws... verify if you can lower the arm base. (VTA is needed to fine tune the cart output).
As per the belt, measure the initial one and look for tape recorders belts.. easy to find and inexpensive. (Use chalc powder on the new belt to eliminate grease and enable slip).
IMO DL160 is incomparably better than the AT.
Ricardo
PS:
Nice dismantling work.
Hi Ricardo,
In fact it seems it's a nice and simple TT and a very good starter
I'll save some bitumen when I'll got to buy something like for my CDP or such Just under? No problem for my motor to move it? The fact I have sometimes not even 200V instead 230 here may be a problem or not? The motor is frequency of AC sync?
what is VTA ?
I've taken the AT as it is super cheap, 30€, and said to be the best price/quality possible under 50, enough for me right now.
Thanks!
Matthieu
In fact it seems it's a nice and simple TT and a very good starter
I'll save some bitumen when I'll got to buy something like for my CDP or such
Just under? No problem for my motor to move it? The fact I have sometimes not even 200V instead 230 here may be a problem or not? The motor is frequency of AC sync?what is VTA ?
I've taken the AT as it is super cheap, 30€, and said to be the best price/quality possible under 50, enough for me right now.
Thanks!
Matthieu
OK for the low budget AT !
VTA (Vertical Tracking Angle) (Lower the arm base = low VTA gives more bass output but less high freq detail. Lift the arm base and you get better high freq detail until in gets edgy...) You must find a balance... there is always a sweet spot.
The motor is AC frequency locked.....
I am not sure your type of motor can be powered with less than 220v otherwise you could lower it´s noise using a TX (220 - 110). You can try if you have one of those tx available. It lowers motor noise and you get enormous gains in detail ... (similar to powering the decoder / servo with a dedicated psu on the CDP) I am using a 220 -> 110v TX 500VA in my ariston RD80 premotec AC motor.
Your motor is capable to turn very heavy loads as is, so a little mass on the platter is always welcome.
Heavy platters give the best bass.... Myne weights 4~5 kg and I would like to have a 30kg one !!!
Ricardo
VTA (Vertical Tracking Angle) (Lower the arm base = low VTA gives more bass output but less high freq detail. Lift the arm base and you get better high freq detail until in gets edgy...) You must find a balance... there is always a sweet spot.
The motor is AC frequency locked.....
I am not sure your type of motor can be powered with less than 220v otherwise you could lower it´s noise using a TX (220 - 110). You can try if you have one of those tx available. It lowers motor noise and you get enormous gains in detail ... (similar to powering the decoder / servo with a dedicated psu on the CDP) I am using a 220 -> 110v TX 500VA in my ariston RD80 premotec AC motor.
Your motor is capable to turn very heavy loads as is, so a little mass on the platter is always welcome.
Heavy platters give the best bass.... Myne weights 4~5 kg and I would like to have a 30kg one !!!
Ricardo
Do not switch to 110v and feed 220 from your mains !!!
It will kill your motor for sure.
I meant you can try to reduce input voltage (using the TT set up for 220), and benefit from less motor noise.
With less voltage, the motor might loose some torque but produce lower noise.
Ricardo
PS
I am not sure about your motor... maybe it must use 220v... try if you can.
It will kill your motor for sure.
I meant you can try to reduce input voltage (using the TT set up for 220), and benefit from less motor noise.
With less voltage, the motor might loose some torque but produce lower noise.
Ricardo
PS
I am not sure about your motor... maybe it must use 220v... try if you can.
Some motors, like the 24 pole premotec, can operate with as low as 70v.... I am using a big TX to reduce from 220 to 110 and some resistros to lower the rest.
The motor looses torque so now I need to hand start the platter but the noise is much lower (vibration induced noise).
In your case, I do not know if it works because the motor is different.
Ricardo
The motor looses torque so now I need to hand start the platter but the noise is much lower (vibration induced noise).
In your case, I do not know if it works because the motor is different.
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo (and others!)
Any advice to cut & add damping mat, I have a second one for my CDP I bougth with my new iron (the former one died just when I was about to solder the first 100nF SMD...) and have no way to cut it round. I can do it in the inner round, maybe mark the inner circle with a light hammer on the soft black mat, then cut, or the outer but my bitumen mat is too small so I have to do by part. Balance the platter should be a concern also ! And clearance with gears wich I can check by sticking a narrow band.
Left stuff will... dampen my CDP
Matthieu who cannot make things if it's not perfectly clean and in line.
Any advice to cut & add damping mat, I have a second one for my CDP I bougth with my new iron (the former one died just when I was about to solder the first 100nF SMD...) and have no way to cut it round. I can do it in the inner round, maybe mark the inner circle with a light hammer on the soft black mat, then cut, or the outer but my bitumen mat is too small so I have to do by part. Balance the platter should be a concern also ! And clearance with gears wich I can check by sticking a narrow band.
Left stuff will... dampen my CDP
Matthieu who cannot make things if it's not perfectly clean and in line.
Your platter is simatrical on the underside so you should cut two "C" shaped strips for the outside and another two for the inside.
Use a compass and a ruler to make a sketch, cut some samples out of paper and place them on the platter for final measurements. Than cut the final strips.
As the strips are simetrical, before glueing, justapose the pairs and trim so the weight is equaly distributed. (You do not want to mess with the platter eq)
Ricardo
Use a compass and a ruler to make a sketch, cut some samples out of paper and place them on the platter for final measurements. Than cut the final strips.
As the strips are simetrical, before glueing, justapose the pairs and trim so the weight is equaly distributed. (You do not want to mess with the platter eq)
Ricardo
Hi Ricardo,
I've managed to cut a round piece in the middle and keep the rest for the CDP wich is thge main customer.
Even if it's a over 900g to over 1000g deal it's a +10% of weight.
This is not balanced as it should show some drill or added weight if it was like high-reving engine do have on rotary parts. So I think it's not a problem here.
Enough for now
I've managed to cut a round piece in the middle and keep the rest for the CDP wich is thge main customer.
Even if it's a over 900g to over 1000g deal it's a +10% of weight.
This is not balanced as it should show some drill or added weight if it was like high-reving engine do have on rotary parts. So I think it's not a problem here.
Enough for now
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here I go with the belt. I'm new in the TT world so maybe some of my remarks sound stupid.
The belt is not a belt as I use to see everywhere it's a belt, here it's a rubber band. It must already be pulled larger to fit the TT plate, then again pull it with a real tension to go on the motor idler. I find that strange as it's pulling both motor and plate to each other.
And I also find the moteur is not free spining when off, while the Denon is. So the plate does not free wheel at all.
I did print a Vinyle Engine probe disc... guess what, it's too slow! Enough to make the music dull.
And last but not least, when the Denon is dead silent but a slight motor noise the Thosiba makes a kind of humming, almost the same as the one can be heard in the right channel when amp pot is put full throttle.
I'm ready to open the window to see if it can fly.
edit: I remeber that when I got the Denon in hands the owner try to adjust it and said "it's no more possible to tune it, even full pot to speed adjut the motor is not fast enough." So I opened the bottom lid and adjusted the main big variable resistors to make the fine tuning possible again. In short it was also too slow at least on my main (wich is very nosy, unstable and low).
The belt is not a belt as I use to see everywhere it's a belt, here it's a rubber band. It must already be pulled larger to fit the TT plate, then again pull it with a real tension to go on the motor idler. I find that strange as it's pulling both motor and plate to each other.
And I also find the moteur is not free spining when off, while the Denon is. So the plate does not free wheel at all.
I did print a Vinyle Engine probe disc... guess what, it's too slow! Enough to make the music dull.
And last but not least, when the Denon is dead silent but a slight motor noise the Thosiba makes a kind of humming, almost the same as the one can be heard in the right channel when amp pot is put full throttle.
I'm ready to open the window to see if it can fly.
edit: I remeber that when I got the Denon in hands the owner try to adjust it and said "it's no more possible to tune it, even full pot to speed adjut the motor is not fast enough." So I opened the bottom lid and adjusted the main big variable resistors to make the fine tuning possible again. In short it was also too slow at least on my main (wich is very nosy, unstable and low).
This is the sound of the motor, same loaded or not:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrlYpiZdle0
... I was dead silent so the clicks or changes of tone are all from the motor itself. There is a problem. And try to take it apart may be its end so the end of this TT also. F!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrlYpiZdle0
... I was dead silent so the clicks or changes of tone are all from the motor itself. There is a problem. And try to take it apart may be its end so the end of this TT also. F!
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