Simplistic NJFET RIAA

diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Salas, now that the amp is all done I am amazed! Man does it sound good!!! I just ripped out the 200pf cap and changed the 47nf caps for the good stuff. Furthermore I fitted coaxial cable on the in and outputs and changed the umbillical for 2 x 2 x 0.8 with screening. Way, way better! Thanks for all the good advice. That goes to all of you!
As 47nF you you mean C3 I believe. Changed from Orange Drop to Clarity MR, yes?
 
Exactly, and by using the actual FET you have selected as current source (Q7, Q2x) you know you will be getting very nearly the same current and voltage drop in the actual circuit (except the supply voltage will be different, I suppose 4x9V batteries would more nearly duplicate conditions in the final circuit).

Edit: But if you look at the 2sk117 data sheet, you can see that Idss changes only ~0.2mA when you change Vds from 10-35V. Then look at how the Vf drop on an LED changes with a change of 0.2mA in current (from a nominal 3-5mA), it's not much.

I thought everyone was doing this the much easier way of measuring the led's with the Vf function of the multimeter.

Measuring the whole chain with the transistor in place makes much more sense actually. I'll probably do it tonight with a few DIP sockets.
 
:up: Perfect. Let us know more after you test it in the stereo system

The project is running. It started up as described, but took about 15 or 20 minutes to get to desired voltage. I had it cranked up, and it got pretty hot. But it finally settled in. I try to set it at 3.6, but it seems to drop back to about 3.4 or 3.5.

The sound, so far, is excellent. And I'm sure it will improve when it gets comfortable. There is absolutely no noise in the circuit- I don't mean just a tiny bit of hum at higher volume - I mean: full volume - no hiss, no hum, no nothing. Great design.

Gain is fine for my .4 mv Denon 301ii. Hopefully it will work for lower output carts as well.

I installed the z_foils at r1 and r14, but used Takman Reys in the LOMC section. I'll switch over to the z-foils later. Also currently using Clarity mr's.
 
Off to a good start for you. Congratulations. Your warm up time is by the book. Don't worry about exact bias voltages. Pictures are welcome.

Here's a quick pic. Hard to see much detail in compressed files. Obviously I'll move the project over to a permanent chassis in due course. As stated earlier, I'm planning to swap out the Takmans currently in the lomc impedance circuits with Vishay Z-Foils, but at $15 each, I want to be sure what I want before committing.

I enclosed the spec sheet on a Hammond chassis that I'm considering. It has 3/4" walnut on four side and metal top and bottom (this would be for the stereo stages only; ps will be remote and in an aluminum box.). I'm thinking about heat once the stage is enclosed. So far, the heat is not problem. After several hours of operation, the only heat is from the two hotter mosfets and those are not too hot to touch. If it's going to be a problem, I could look at having some venting lasered into the top plate.

Also, I'm thinking about a front panel switch. I will use XLR connectors and quad star wire; but I'm wondering if running full dc power from the rear panel to the front and back might risk noise. I could alway install a small toggle switch on the rear panel or just use the switch on the remote power supply.

As noted earlier, sound is excellent. And, I'm sure that once the final wiring gets installed and cut to size, the z-zoils are installed, and everything gets seasoned, the sound will be even better. But, it's awfully good right now.
 

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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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I still like this photo even when the build unfinished. Looking potent and stealthy right now like some Raptor aircraft opened for overhaul :)

Maybe use Z-Foil for your most likely to work load value for starter. So to weigh the perceivable difference before purchasing an array. Also your C2Y tune in is a factor for extracting your best balance in conjunction with input load value and element quality. DC chord going around the front face won't do noise. What is your TT and arm by the way?
 
Thanks all for the kind thoughts. I'm running a Thorens td-145ii, with a Grace F940 arm (the older one without anti-skate), and a Denon dl 301ii cart. I have my eye is on one of two carts in the next couple of months: the Ortofon Quintet Black, or the AT 33sa. I had been running a couple of diy, op-amp stages. I felt that neither of those was worthy of an investment in either of the two carts I'm considering. This jfet amp will allow me to move ahead.

Sjoerd, anybody that pops those cake pans into the oven will be removed from my Christmas list.

Salas, I didn't pay too much attention to C2Y; but, I'll definitely look into it now. The Ortofon looks like it wants around 50 ohms and the AT 100. The current Denon is doing well at 330.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Let us know what you think ok? I'm especially interested in his setup and how it sounds with the FSP :) My expierience is that I don't need much special RIAA, but you know that already :)

Have fun!

Very nice magnetostatic with similar to electrostatic traits but more euphonic. I especially liked the FSP in synergy with Juma's Cubie2 amp on those panels. Not so much even tone and good detail for those speakers on a KT88 PP & FB tube amp we listened also with, but more expressionistic color. Rather false color. In both occasions very good with a 12B4 tube line preamp.